Isolating loops connected by switches - RealTrax

Very nice work. Good looking layout.

Cut into the middle rail at the beginning and end of any section (block) of track that you wish to isolate. Run a wire from the middle rail of that block to a single-pole single throw switch. Then continue the circuit back to the source of track power. Do this for any number of blocks that you require. A switch will control each block. You can mount the switches in a small control panel, and draw a track diagram on the panel, installing the switches in appropriate spots on the track plan.

Got it.  Thanks.  Can I cut right at the end of the switch that joins the outer loop to the inner loop?  I am so happy for the reply.

Hi WilliamJ,

Your layout looks really nice from what I can see in the pictures.  Good job!  

You need to electrically isolate the outer loop switches from the inner loop switches at the center rail joint.  Probably the easiest thing to start with is to pull up just enough track on the outer loop to remove the two outer loop switches.  Turning the switches over, you can then put some insulating tape over the center rail phosphor bronze contact wipers where they contact the inner loop switch wipers.  Also, it would be a good idea to put a piece of insulating tape on the ends of the diverging route center rails, to make double sure they don't touch and and make electrical contact with the center rails on your inner loop switches.  Then reassemble all your switches and track, and this completes the electrical isolation of the two loops.  The last step of course is to power each loop however you so desire.

Hope this helps. 

Such a nice reply.  I think I understand.  I am not sure what the reference to the wipers means.  Sorry.

Bill

I wouldn't cut it "right at the end".  As shown in red there is a copper strap that would bypass a cut in the center rail "right at the end".  I'm imagining a Dremel metal cut-off wheel applied at the yellow line.  The center rail is clamped down to the black ties in the yellow circles.  Cutting as shown would provide 2 tie-downs of the now "loose" short center rail piece at the end. 

It wasn't clear if it is acceptable to pull up track to isolate the center rail as Mixed Freight suggests.  The "wiper" is the "J" shaped end of the copper strap on the left of the red circle.  This mates with the "J" copper strap of the connected track.  So you can bend the J so that contact is not made.  Then, you need to insure the ends of the center rails of the two track sections don't touch.  This can be done with any thin insulating material.  

Thank you.  This is the greatest forum.

You might take a switch and connect an extra piece of track to it to study very closely how the wipers (j-hooks) contact each other.  This should give you a good idea on how to either bend and/or insulate them so they don't conduct electricity.  Once again, notice that even if you get the j-hooks insulated, it is sometimes possible for the rail ends to touch each other - hence a piece of insulating tape over one rail end to prevent them from touching and thereby making electrical contact.

I'd hate to see you cut a rail on one of your switches just to create a block.  This would probably devalue the price of the switch should you ever decide to sell it.  Cutting a rail on a far less expensive piece of straight or curved track, no big deal.  But not on a switch if you can avoid it! 

This is very helpful.  Thank you

Thank you sincerely for all of you who gave me clear and helpful answers.  When I actually try all this I will probably have another question.  But I am going to dive in so I don't have to have power reaching both my table level trains when I just want to run one.

WilliamJ, For not having any help or experience, to this point, I think you have done a great job of building your layout, especially the scenery! You've received some great information from others here. I think you have this! Post more pictures of your layout, please, I like what you've done so far!

Rusty

Thank you so much.  This has been fairly steady work for just about a year.  I keep spending money.

Nice looking layout. I'm sure you realize this but, once you electrically isolate the loops, you will then need a separate power source for each loop if you intend to run both loops at the same time. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways, depending on what transformer(s) you have. 

One thought I had that didn't die from loneliness is you could slip insulation around the center rail contacts on both track pieces. This would be a reversible solution if you decided to re-configure the layout later. It should be stable since the track won't be taken apart and reassembled repeatedly.