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Patrick,

The more I look at your handy work, the more I like it, and the more I want to do mine (what I can) the same way. Wink

Earlier on you said:
quote:
Then I use a 4 inch grinder with a thin 6-7 inch masonry cutting wheel(wear gloves) Just run the grinder back in fourth keep going horizontal(slight tilts are good to) lines from 1/2 to 1/8 apart, you will cross the line above and below the one you are scoring, it will look more realistic but try not to cross two lines while scoring if you can. try not to go to deep or you will need a sprayer to get paint in the cracks later.


A couple of questions, if I may:

Did you cut the foam with the wheel, as you said above, while in the train room? Wasn’t there a lot of ‘foam’ dust?

Did you paint right over the foam or did you apply any plaster or similar before painting?

Thanks!

Alex

Thanks guys for the nice comments, I really appreciate it.

Alex,


read this part again.I fixed some wording.
On page 2 , -- Posted December 17, 2010 03:18 AM

Not much dust, but i have hepa filters in furnace.Now that its warm ,shut it off for a while if your worried.

Wagner sprayer - straight water based wall paint.

I only used the wheel for scoring lines.

Thanks for askin !

APN

Last edited by Patrick H
quote:
Originally posted by Dewey Trogdon:
Superb layout. I have seen nothing like it in O-gauge. I just noticed your "celotex type" ceiling which should/will absorb a lot of train sound. Even if you are running the entire roster. Not to start a debate[again]but sound tests, or at least one I know of, have shown that celotexed ceiling/walls and a carpeted floor plus a layout skirt are the keys to sound abatement, not the foam or Homasote roadbed we have all worshiped for years.
Great work! Smile


Patrick's layout is truly unbelievable, as properly noted by all.

I had to save this wonderful post by Dewey about sound for easy later reference.

Speaking of sound, I am still speechless after looking at the photos of Patrick's layout!

Cordially,

Dennis
quote:
Originally posted by Tom Tee:
Patrick,

When I first switched to flourescents the MFG. engineers walked me through the variables of Kelvin heat ranges (K) and the different color rendition indexs (C.R.I.).

For true color photo work I was told to go with a 6000 plus Kelvin and a c.r.i. of mid/high 90s.

Just for personal eyecandy enjoyment a c.r.i. of 88+ and a Kelvin of 4000+ should be satisfactory. Considerable cost difference when you are talking 50 or more tubes.

Like audio euipment, lighting is rather subjective. For my new train room I am using 2 X 4 88 c.r.i./4000 Kelvin T-8 tubes spaced 30" apart over the linear benchwork around the wall.

Alot of your layout is more of a island in construction and you may wish to use a blanket pattern. Maybe even consider OTTS lights like Joe G did in his new pike. Extreamly even natural light, very efficient.

In any event, you would have to do something really weird to make that beautiful RR of yours anything less than fantastic! You are an great example for all of us.

Consider velcro for the Backdrop Wharehouse hanging w/ sealed seams.



This looks like interesting information for lighting a layout.

Cordially,

Dennis
Patrick,

My son, Tom, has had a chance to look at the photos of your layout, and we both agree that your layout is spectacular! In addition to the excellent posts concerning lighting that you were kind enough to point us to, we plan to study more closely the design and construction of your scenery. But for mere mortals like us, scenery is still in the distant future! Smile

Again thanks for posting all of the beautiful photos of your layout progress.

Cordially,

Dennis Thanks
Patrick,

I really like how you 'sank' the post into the 'water' - IT LOOKS SO REAL! I also used envirotex for my small lake, and will use it for the large lake - good product.

A magazine article? Of course I would like learn more and see more pictures of your layout, as would everyone else. Smile

But honestly, a magazine article will just scratch the surface Big Grin- I suggest you start writing 'the book' on your layout and its construction details. Wink

Alex
Patrick,

The water on your layout came out fantastic, will need to compare notes when I get to that phase. So excited, my basement walls are up and painted, and I'm practicing making clouds using templates. Next is lights, and then benchwork!

Keep us posted on your progress, look forward to seeing what you've been working on.

-bruce
Shawn,
where to you find time to get on the forum ,Thanks man, i appreciate that.



Well forum freinds i changed the track work a few times. This very close to my final design for the exception of some different structures and maybe sneak in another siding or two.
All this track is laid and compared to the couple layouts i did before, this one I really like and I am excited about.
Comments on adding track/siding changing work are welcome if you have any ideas, otherwise thats about it .

The RRT file is posted at bottom.If you dont have it i tried to do a BMP

The Green Track and Green Outlines terrain at 32"
The Purple Track and Purple Outlines terrain at 43"
And Blue at 53"

The blue is still the 2 purple mainlines only elevating. The green is the 2 lower mainlines. 4 independant mainlines yet all are connected.

Attachments

Last edited by Patrick H
Patrick,

(Comments looking at your RR-Track layout – latest version.)

1. Was the switch-track you were concerned about (previous post - green track) the one that you now show about ‘1-ft to the right and 9-ft above’ the bottom left hand corner? As has been mentioned before, I don’t believe you would have any problems with it.

2. The three straight sections connected by a switch-track, up by the Farm and Creamery – are they stand-alone, or will you be connecting them to the rest of the layout later on?

3. How do you like your turntable and roundhouse arrangement? It doesn’t appear that the track leading to the turntable is shown – is this correct?

You see, I have a similar situation now that I decided to add a turntable to my layout as well, and I already ordered a 34” Millhouse River Studio TT. The existing location presently has a Ø72 partial loop around it, and I am debating whether to remove the loop. I was trying to leave 16” of straight sections between the TT and the roundhouse (don’t have the RH yet), but maybe these straight sections don’t have to be this long.

I don’t think there is anything left to say about your layout, which has been and continues to be an inspiration for all. I may add that it also is a very effective use of space, and you have provided for excellent aisles for the layout to be seen, enjoyed, and appreciated.

Alex
Alex,

1) Yes that is the switch. Bottom left corner inside the tunnel. You cant tell from my pics but there is a 14" x 9ft walkway behind that part of the layout.(for furnace double doors)Just enough to get to it.

2) You got me on that one. Simple answer yes. I took care of the file. Thanks

3)As far as the turntable goes. It is really smooth.Even sounds prototypical.LOL
I went out and got a Dallee indexer, but i cant seem to get every track stop perfectly lined up because you have to put those little sensors underneath.This is not the TT fault, it stops like a solid rock.
What i suggest and am going to do, is build a small control panel with a toggle switch for direction and a knob for voltage control,Im gonna scrap the aggrevetion for the indexer for now,( i may do it in the future)unless you cant tell if the tracks are lined up from where you stand. The TT is so smoooth this will work better for me. Then later Ill hook it up to Legacy an assign it a number like i did with my old one.

I had a hard time converting the TT area to RRT file, bit it is darn close.The TT needs to go down and to the left a liitle more.

16" is way to long 6-8" i think you ll find is how the tracks will come out of the roundhouse.

Your layout is awesome, thanks for the comments.

Attachments

Last edited by Patrick H
Patrick,

I too, for the time being, will index the TT manually and align it by eye. Eventually I may add a circle segment to the bottom of the TT, with holes properly spaced such that a bullet-nose pin mounted on the periphery of the TT, and actuated by an R/C servo (I don't like solenoids) would do the final, 'micro' positioning.

I changed the proposed portion of my layout for the TT as you suggested, and reduced the distance from the TT to the RH. I posted the two options a few minutes ago - here: Alex's layout - Page 3.
When you have a minute, perhaps you could take a look?

Thx!

Alex

Worked on the middle pinninsula where i plan to put a coal mine and power plant as well as whatever else i can fit.


















Also put some foam down for the town scene. Not sure of any placement yet, but i plan to build alot of kits and take apart all these buildings and weather them up etc..









APN





I plan to put a lake under this bridge:








Last edited by Patrick H
Alex,
I couldnt find a 24" tall Redeemer yet!LOL

quote:
Originally posted by gregj410:
I love the Wye! Do you ever forego the TT to reverse a loco there just for fun? Cool


Forego? To use before or proceed.HMMM

Thats what i was doing before and is fun because its on the oppisite side of the layout.

But now I finally figured out the other night to disconnect the belt from the motor pully, and put all my index sensors in for TT track alignment without having to continually go under the layout 3-4 times for each track adjustment. Now i just lign up the TT with its track then go under and place the sensor until the motors stops carefully so not to rotate the bridge.
Now im hitting them all.It took less than a half hour, where it took me 2 hours to do just 5-6 when i first installed it.

The Y is mostly there for when a wimpy engines cant make the mountain climband to bring out some muscle.LOL[/QUOTE]
Last edited by Patrick H
quote:
Originally posted by Patrick H:
Backdrop warehouse. Guys a little stiff though, to say the least.


I'm very impressed that you were able to buy this background from Backdrop Warehouse. Were you able to figure it on your own on the website, or was there actually help over the phone? I tried in vain to get buy their background for my layout. My call to them for help in ordering was not well received. If there is a name of a helpful someone there to talk to, I might give them one more try.

Gilly
I know what your saying. Basically you have to put up with a little arrogance. Especially when your spending over 200 bucks per section. Its only the one guy as far as I know and the website is a nightmare to navigate. As i have explained to others via email, I ordered 4- 12' backdrops that work together in a set. Then ordered the same 3 more in th reverse"mirror image"(7 total), this way to get a continuos flow without the blending or whatever he calls it. for example 1-2-3-4-reverse 4-3-2.So depending on what you are trying to accomplish, try to find the ones that work together and just order them straight and reversed to continue the flow all the way around the room.
I spent nearly 5-6 days until i figured out the mock up page where you can put all the sections together. Even in the mock up mode it shows the backdrops dont line up, but if they are the same code letters they will when you over lap them on your wall. Dont exspect to much help from him. All he did was make me feel like an idiot for calling, but i put up with it cause I didnt know where else to go.I think it has alot to do with no one really knows how to have a successful installation with the stuff. I ignored everything that was recommended from him and the website after the glue-rubber cement etc all made the media bubble. After ruining the first piece I Went out and got some double sided carpet tape and hung it in a 1/4 of the time and with way better results and no mess.Although i have a ripple or two,its way better than the ones ive seen glued up. Theres also a club discount, even though i am in a club,and they come over sometimes to run trains, i didnt want to decieve him and pretend it was only for the club. After the whole transaction, i may have reconsidered that. LOL I hate to even tell people where i got it when they ask.
Last edited by Patrick H
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