lionel 1033 tranformer

It sounds like the circuit breaker did not reset.

Pull the 2 handles off and unscrew the 4 binding post nuts. Take out the 4 Phillips head screws and pull the cover off.

Locate the circuit breaker and see if the contacts are closed. It is riveted in place so replacement is not easy. If the contacts are open the circuit breaker needs to be replaced.

Brasseur Electric Trains carries a  replacement external circuit breaker that will have to be wired between the 'B' and '#5' points inside the transformer. The original breaker stays in place.

Larry

Larry-- I am keeping you busy these last days.   I looked at a youtube video to see that it is not hard to open the transformer, and be able to check that out.  is it easy to determine if the circuit breaker is open.   thanks you for the advice.

Taking a wire and touching it to presumably energized terminals is not recommended. They invented meters to allow a much safer and more scientific approach.

But this is probably the 85th time I have typed those words on this forum.

To answer your electrical question: since the transformer, by definition, puts out alternating current, it does not matter how the two wires are connected to the track.

@Arthur P. Bloom posted:

... it does not matter how the two wires are connected to the track.

Well, yes, it does. The whistle, throttle, direction and breaker are all on the 1033 common "A" post, so it's pretty important once you get past anything but a simple loop of track, or when you are running post-1970 whistles & horns that will be expecting your 1033 to have the "U" post connected to the center rail so they will work.

(This is about the 85th time this has been explained on the forum as well)

You guys ROCK!  and that is the first time I’ve said that.  I do have a meter.  But your point is prescient, Art.

But can you explain why the A and B posts are dead and the C post isn’t.  I am understanding that the C post is used should I say exclusively for accessories.

The reason is that "somethin' is busted."  By using the scientific method, and a meter, and experience, and a knowledge of electricity, we might be able to improve upon that diagnosis.

And to my distinguished colleague, Rob, note that the OP cited what we can infer as pre-1970 trains in a simple arrangement. I would have certainly expounded upon the necessity of following a more complicated and dogmatic scheme had I not assumed a basic post-war assemblage of toys.  I often edit my own thoughts and subsequent remarks to ensure that I offer just enough detail to answer, concisely and accurately, the question asked, rather than to fall prey to what is a ubiquitous symptom of various internet fora: answering questions that were not asked, with associated hand-waving, which is a rabbit hole into which I elect not to fall.

If posts A-B are dead, there is a broken connection or a coil is open.

Larry

@Pat K posted:

...explain why the A and B posts are dead and the C post isn’t.  I am understanding that the C post is used should I say exclusively for accessories.

C-U doesn't go through the breaker,  the breaker is faulty.

@TrainLarry posted:

If posts A-B are dead, there is a broken connection or a coil is open.

He didn't test A-B... it also does not go through the breaker and will show 5v if tested.

Rob, he did test A-B...

''But can you explain why the A and B posts are dead and the C post isn’t.  I am understanding that the C post is used should I say exclusively for accessories.''

Larry

@TrainLarry posted:

Rob, he did test A-B...

U-A, U-B, U-C, no A-B:

@Pat K posted:

I did a quick litmus test, running a wire from the U terminal to touch each post A, B, C and turning the handle up a little bit to see if I could get a spark.  It only sparked on the C terminal.