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Jeff, according to the information that I have, your 153IR version has the "U" and "ACC GND" terminals tied together internally. And the "U" terminal is connected to the internal relay's COM. Therefore, it switches "U" between the "NO" and "NC" terminals.
Assuming "U" is Common and "A" is Power, it switches transformer common, Not the hot side.

I can't make out the difference between the non-red wire colors at your Gateman connections.
If the light is meant to stay on, the RED wire from "ACC PWR" should go to the lamp and coil shared terminal. The other lamp terminal to the "ACC GND". The other coil terminal to "NO".

What is the actual model number of your Gateman?

Dave

Last edited by Dtrainmaster

Gee that is encouraging. Maybe I need your assessment of the correct wires to the gateman.

So I have now re-inserted the wire for the ground, and it is not working. I am sending pictures of what I just took. As for my gateman it is the original 145 gateman, and in this case it is from the early '50's. The wires must be mis matched, as this present configuration does not make the light go on or off, etc.

Attachments

Images (3)
  • IFR set up
  • IFR set up gateman
  • IFR set up gateman instructions

Jeff, I would rather help you figure this out, not just make a complete diagram, because there could be hidden problems.

I think at this point we need to separate the two devices to verify that they function correctly on their own.
Let's check the Gateman first. Be sure it is isolated from anything else, like the track or other metal accessories.
Connect two wires to the transformer. One on the Common post, the other on either the Variable (track) post or an Accessory post (14V).
Now look at the schematic. There are three ways the two wires can be connected.

gateman
Label the tabs on the Gateman 1, 2, and 3. Then try each way and record which does x, y, or z.
1 to 2:
2 to3:
3 to 1:
x) Lamp glows bright
y) gateman operates correctly
z) both operate weakly

You already mentioned that the Gateman itself will operate. If the lamp doesn't, in at least one scenario, lamp is bad or there is a bad connection. This needs to be fixed before we troubleshoot any further.

Dave

Attachments

Images (1)
  • gateman
Last edited by Dtrainmaster

Jeff, I would rather help you figure this out, not just make a complete diagram, because there could be hidden problems.

I think at this point we need to separate the two devices to verify that they function correctly on their own.
Let's check the Gateman first. Be sure it is isolated from anything else, like the track or other metal accessories.
Connect two wires to the transformer. One on the Common post, the other on either the Variable (track) post or an Accessory post (14V).
Now look at the schematic. There are three ways the two wires can be connected.

gateman
Label the tabs on the Gateman 1, 2, and 3. Then try each way and record which does x, y, or z.
1 to 2:
2 to3:
3 to 1:
x) Lamp glows bright
y) gateman operates correctly
z) both operate weakly

You already mentioned that the Gateman itself will operate. If the lamp doesn't, in at least one scenario, lamp is bad or there is a bad connection. This needs to be fixed before we troubleshoot any further.

Dave

OK Dave: I will try and do so tonight. I can tell you the bulb does work as I was fiddling around a while back and the bulb did light. I will work on it tonight. Thanks.

@Steims posted:

Here is the wiring diagram you looking for.   It shows the orientation of the terminals on the Gateman and how to wire to IR.   These newer gateman appear to be wired same as post war.



IMG_7044  

Yes I used that diagram, but the gateman turned on and never went off, so IF could be bad. We shall see.

By the way to all of you. When I get this to work right, I am powering it with a lionel transformer, but I am setting all this up on a G gauge layout. Nothing fancy just thought it would be neat to take this old gateman and make it work.

Jeff, when you say the Gateman turns on, I assume you mean he exits the shack but never returns (off).  Have you turned the timing button down completely? (Battery Box conceals the two controllers). Pic #2)  Maybe the issue is with the timing setting on the 153IR Controller sensor.  I use the Auxilary Power Supply Terminals  rather than the the "ACC PWR" terminal (Pic #1) The smaller red wire in the Battery Box terminal powers a light in the shack.  Since I use LCS modules to turn on accessories, the light lets me know the shack (IR Sensor) is on.  Hope this helps.

IMG_9803IMG_9804

Attachments

Images (2)
  • IMG_9803
  • IMG_9804
Last edited by ToledoEd

Jeff, I would rather help you figure this out, not just make a complete diagram, because there could be hidden problems.

I think at this point we need to separate the two devices to verify that they function correctly on their own.
Let's check the Gateman first. Be sure it is isolated from anything else, like the track or other metal accessories.
Connect two wires to the transformer. One on the Common post, the other on either the Variable (track) post or an Accessory post (14V).
Now look at the schematic. There are three ways the two wires can be connected.

gateman
Label the tabs on the Gateman 1, 2, and 3. Then try each way and record which does x, y, or z.
1 to 2:
2 to3:
3 to 1:
x) Lamp glows bright
y) gateman operates correctly
z) both operate weakly

You already mentioned that the Gateman itself will operate. If the lamp doesn't, in at least one scenario, lamp is bad or there is a bad connection. This needs to be fixed before we troubleshoot any further.

Dave

After a internet outage in the entire county, I am back online. I have successfully wired the gateman for the light and the operation.



The IF sensor is always on.

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