more transformer power?

I also have lockon and jumper wires located throught the set. The main power is a ZW275 and when I run the trains "2" they still need more throttle away from the zw.

I think you mean "throughout" the layout. Right? How many lockons? What size wire are you using to interconnect them? Do the lockon wires all go back as "home runs" that is, do they all go back to the ZW, or are they "daisy chained" from one lockon to the next?

What do you mean when you say "When I run the trains '2' "? 

I would like to try to help you but I am not clear on several things:

1) Same question as Authur Bloom.   What do you mean by "when I run the trains "2"?  Two trains at once?  Only on setting voltage level 2 on some device.  I'm not clear here,

2) Explain more about" they need more throttle away from the zw" - do you mean that as the trains move farther away form where the transformer and/or its connection to the track is, you need to advance the throttle more?  If so, you need bigger feed wire and or more feeds to the other end of the loop. 

Sorry for the confusion. I run trains on two different powered tracks " left handle and right handle"and I do have lockons around the track and am using 12 gauge from the zw to the lockons and 14 guage as feeders. Maybe I should swicth these around???

Yes as the trains move away they need more throttle. I know this is common as voltage drops with the distance but Im looking to keep the speeds the same so I can play with other things instead of throttles.

Hope this clears a little.

I understand now.  Truly, with the size layout you have, you should not have problems with trains slowing down as they move away from you, if you7r multiple lockons and feeder wires are all working.  With #12 wire and a 16 x 4 layout, even with two feeds and lockons per track (one near transformer one on the opposite side, you should have little need to adjust the throttle.

I suggest first verifying that all the feeds to each track are working.  You can disconnect all but one, and run with that: you will get voltage variations ( a need to vary the throttle) but you should at least see that the train goes all around the loop.  If it doesn't you have an open spot in the track - poor conections, etc.  If it does work at all the lockon or wires aren't done right.  Once you have one right, disconnect it at the transformer and try the next, etc., until all are correct.  I would think that would solve the problem.  You really should not need to adjust the throttle, unless the reason your trains are slowing down is just due to the curves (with a 4" wide layout you probably have 36" or so curves, and some locos slow down a lot, compared to on straights, when they hit such curves.  )

Thanks Lee.

I found some questionable connections and I am adding a couple more feeds.

I would suggest looking at track connections, where each track joins together, as there could be a loose connection. If possible try to run the trains when it is dark in the room and look at all track connections to see if any have a slight glow, if so that is where you are losing power.

Also try adding a track power clip-on every four to five feet and see if that helps with power loss, sometimes old track needs more [power hook-ups to run at a constant voltage.

Lee Fritz

TF33Man,

   Let me try to help you a little further, 1st its sounds like you are using old Tin tube type track, and this is probably your real problem, especially if you are using track power to operate your switches.  Although I love my old Tin track I changed to FasTrack many years ago and solved many similar problems that you are encountering.

If you are running modern engines and rolling stock the FasTrack switches are fantastic also.  If you plan to run pre war Tin Plate you will have to do different switch engineering unfortunately.  Your ZW should be powering your layout without any trouble, once you rework every piece of your old track, making sure of every connection, or switch to FasTrack.  I highly recommend the FasTrack.

PCRR/Dave

While switching to Fastrac may solve some electrical issues, then you have to address the problems with track design and go with a pre-determined track plan. To vary the track plan with Fastrac gets expensive and frustrating, that is why I traded off my Fastrac I got a few years ago. Also the track(Fastrac) got dirty just as quick if not quicker then tubular track for me.

FYI, Fastrac switches are very expensive, a pair of new Fastrac switches can be from $150.00 to almost $200.00 depending where you buy them.

I would rather stay with tubular track, mainly Gargraves track, as the switches are better then Lionel's switches.

Lee Fritz

I agree with others above.  You don't need to change track, or add more transformers.  Just make sure all your track pins are good and tight.  Use a needle nose plier or even a cutter and crimp them really good and tight.  Use gloves to force them together so you will save on your fingers.

.....

Dennis

Lee,

   I can fully understand your thinking, however every track gets dirty and needs to be cleaned.  I like GarGraves for modern trains, for Tin Plate the GG switches really don't get the job done.   Our Iron Horse Train Club tracks & switches were all GG and we had very few problems with it, excepting my Pre War Tin Plate.   I custom engineer all my FasTrack DCS layouts, using old Lionel 711 & 072 switches, its part of the fun, never use a pre-determined track plan.   I do get the itch to construct the old tubular every once in a while also,

even in 027, it can be a lot of fun.

PCRR/Dave

If you are using older tubular rail you may need to pull track pins, gently ream inside the ends of the rails with a drill bit, clean or replace the pins if oxidized, re-form the rail ends for a tight fit of the track pins, and reassemble the track with good clean tight connections. You can maybe minimize the work by tracking down specific joints with excessive voltage drop.

I use a lot of older tubular track and it performs well if you take the time to clean it up properly.

Thanks for all the replies. I am using old and some new 027 track and the 1121 switches.

I like all the new and modern track but some of the prices are out there! I will soon be taking down the set becouse I am moving soon "USAF" and I will be cleaning and adjusting as needed when I come up with more permanent house/track plan.

Thanks again and you all have some nice layouts!!!!

TF-33 Man,

   Thank you for your military service, when you break down and store your layout

and trains, make sure you do it to safe guard from both physical damage and moisture.  In the military my trains were shipped with me to every different duty station, excepting Viet Nam.  When you get to your next duty station let us know,

Christmas time is special to us old GI's and we tend to send Christmas presents

to active military men, who own and run O guage trains.

PCRR/Dave

Good luck with it wherever you set it up again.  As they said, make sure to clean the track well, but truly, several things you said about your problem indicated to me it was not dirty track but bad pins and or feeds/lockons. They can be more problem than you might expect.  

Again, good luck as you move and continue in the service.. 

Thanks Lee and Pine. I will let ya know. Presents would be nice.