Mounting repro Marker lamps - how do you do it?

Hi George,

  What kind of engine are you working on? For my Lionel prewar switchers, this is what I do. I  snip off as much of the bottom of the marker light post as possible. I file the area if needed. I recently started using an awl to try and make little hole (this works for my locomotives, not sure about all) , almost like a reservoir to hold the glue...the glue that I like best is actually JB Kwik which sets up faster. I try to either hold the marker light in place or prop it up against something to hold it in place. The more you do, they better you get at it! Take pictures when you start working on them if you can. 

Tom 

Here's a picture of my most recent basket case that only needs the marker lights to be installed to finish the project. 

Tom, the engines I'm repairing are all diecast - the current (and first one) is a 1662, 0-4-0 pre-war, left marker missing. Next will be a 1615, followed by a pre-war 229. 

The photo below is the 1615, showing the boiler front and two views of the replacement marker. Unfortunately I just noticed that the right and left replacement markers are slightly different sizes, and that neither exactly matches the opposite lamp on the respective boiler front it must go on. That's probably one of those "...never noticed until you mentioned it!" things.

The replacement markers shown below have a fair amount of metal to cut/file/saw away, and that's a problem for me since I can't seem to hang on to the marker while doing the cutting/filing/sawing.

What do you use to hang onto the part that doesn't damage the surface?

If this was mine (I've done these types of locomotives, too), I would remove (using tin snips or a Dremel tool, etc) the excess material (what I have showing in red) and just use JB Weld to attach the marker. You may need to file the replacement marker light a little to conform to the spot you have where it will sit on the boiler.

Not sure what you mean by:

"What do you use to hang onto the part that doesn't damage the surface?"

If you mean what to use to hold it in place while it dries, the JB Weld sets quickly in a few minutes...I have held it until it sets up. Otherwise, you can use whatever is laying around to rig something to temporarily hold it in position. Just try to make it as even as possible, nobody wants crooked marker lights! 

Tom 

It is unfortunate Lionel chose NOT to cast the marker lights onto SEPARATE smoke box fronts that could be easily replaced! Those one-piece shell castings are a PIA! Hindsight is 20/20!

MNCW posted:

If this was mine (I've done these types of locomotives, too), I would remove (using tin snips or a Dremel tool, etc) the excess material (what I have showing in red) and just use JB Weld to attach the marker. You may need to file the replacement marker light a little to conform to the spot you have where it will sit on the boiler.

Not sure what you mean by:

"What do you use to hang onto the part that doesn't damage the surface?"

If you mean what to use to hold it in place while it dries, the JB Weld sets quickly in a few minutes...I have held it until it sets up. Otherwise, you can use whatever is laying around to rig something to temporarily hold it in position. Just try to make it as even as possible, nobody wants crooked marker lights! 

 

Tom - what I mean is that I am having difficulty hanging on to the marker lamp while grinding away the excess material that you have marked in red. Holding the lamp in my fingers just doesn't work, can't seem to hang on to it. And using a pair of needle nose pliers or even a small vise-grip will damage the marker lamp

FWIW, I'm using 5 minute JB Weld - I can hold things together with my fingers til it sets up, no issue there. 

If I recall, using a small vise, I would have wrapped the marker light in an old t-shirt with the excess/bad end being exposed and used the Dremel tool carefully (make sure the piece is very snug & use eye protection). The marker lights are usually pretty tough. I think I've done it like that using a hacksaw, too. Maybe start with the hacksaw method first. 

Tom