Need Help w/Removal of Truck

If its just the knuckle, the plastic knuckle is replaceable, part number 9050-56 with TC-23B rivet.  Any loco service station should have one.  If you have to replace the entire truck, I break it apart, then remove the rivet.

The knuckle ("finger thing") is a pretty easy fix. Drill off the hollow end of the rivet/ pin, till the crimped face falls off. (watch the heat!) 

With little pin type rivets, always get a few extras. It may take a try or two to set it right, and /or without bending it from being straight during the crimp.(i.e. leaving a bent axle/rivet) Dirt cheap anyhow.

There are various forms of knuckles, cast, plastic, spring attached or seperate, etc., get one that matches

If he wants to replace the truck, all this good info on the coupler isn't helping. You should be able to drill off the flange end of the rivet with a drill just a little bigger than the rivet center. Do it in steps, or the rivet will get too hot and melt the deck. (I know this because...). Then the rivet should come out the top.

Thanx, guys for your advice!  I think I'm going to go with John's suggestion - 

Paul

Be careful drilling out the rivet because the rivet tends to spin as you are drilling it. You need a way to restrain the rivet head as you drill the shank.

A better solution I found was to grind the peened over end with a grinding wheel on a Dremel. Then you just punch out the remains of the rivet.

Thanx Larry - 

TrainLarry posted:

Be careful drilling out the rivet because the rivet tends to spin as you are drilling it. You need a way to restrain the rivet head as you drill the shank.

A better solution I found was to grind the peened over end with a grinding wheel on a Dremel. Then you just punch out the remains of the rivet.

Paul

when drilling make sure you keep it cool or the hole will get very large.

I just break away the old truck and use cutters to cut the rivet.

After reading all these comments about the challenges of removing that rivet without damaging the car body, you might want to consider replacing the knuckle if possible.
If the head of the couple isn't damaged, replacing the knuckle is less expensive, and a heck of a lot easier.

Another method -- but it's a little tricky -- is to get some small snub-nosed pliers that fit within the plastic parts of the truck.  Open the jaws of the pliers slightly wider than the rivet itself and then grab and compress the splayed end of the rivet.  Then take some needle nose pliers and grab and twist the rivet to turn it about 90 degrees.  Then go back to your snub-nose pliers and squeeze it again.

It takes a little while and you'll have a few misses on your squeezes, but ultimately you can squeeze the splayed end of the rivet to a point and then just push the rivet out its hole.  The advantage of this method is that you don't heat up the rivet and melt the plastic or chew up the plastic with a drill bit.

I should caution you to watch your fingers while doing this because it's very easy to crimp the pliers, miss, and get a good-sized piece of skin in there.  File that one under "don't ask me how I know."

HTH.

Steven J. Serenska

I've had luck with using a Dremel to grind a slot in the head of the rivet. Then you can use a flat blade screwdriver to keep the rivet from spinning while you drill out the peened over side. As John said, use a drill only slightly larger than the center of the rivet and pause frequently to avoid melting the plastic.

Jim

Paul, let us know how it turned out.

Turned out great!  Used a drill and bore out the "rivet" - thank you for all your help!

Paul

"Turned out great" is always good! Glad to hear it.

Which rivet? Truck or knuckle?

I never had issue with the knuckle rivet spinning, usually a firm push on the knuckle holds it.

You know, the last time I did knuckles, I forgot to peen two of them on my tenders. It's been 5-6 years and despite lots cleanings and upside down maintainance and they've not budged