I understand completely, Pat!! I know bad knees would keep you from going under the layout. I had a knee replacement last November, so I can’t kneel on it. The other knee isn’t bad, but that leg has sciatic nerve damage from two years ago making things tricky. I can’t sit on a hard chair for very long. The padded stool makes things better For a while. Also, it is tough to get at the right focal distance to see what I’m doing sometimes.
Good to see you are progressing so well! I feel your knee pain for sure and you are doing a lot with the wheels you have now. Keep up the great progress, taking breaks and alternating over and under work is certainly a good approach. It is just disheartening we cannot do what we used to do when we want to do it. To bad our bodies don't follow our brain... as I think I am still 40 years old, LOL
Keep up the great work!
The progress looks great! Glad to see it!
Bill and John, Thank you very much!
John, I just finished doing some work on my roll around stool under the layout, and that is enough for a while. 
I know what you mean about thinking I'm 40. Even when I look in the mirror, I don't see a 64 year old guy! I can't see the sags and wrinkles unless I put my glasses on! 
@Mark Boyce posted:..just finished doing some work on my roll around stool under the layout, ...
These stools are life savers. Saved me from crawling around on the ground during painting. I suspect it will save me from crawling under the layout when I get there.
@Mark Boyce posted:Bill and John, Thank you very much!
John, I just finished doing some work on my roll around stool under the layout, and that is enough for a while.
Ok, would it be possible to let me know what the brand of roll around stool you have, and where to purchase.
Thanks John
Nice work Mark. I hope you are going to do a story for OGR on this. Looks like a lot of layout in a small space.
@BillYo414 posted:These stools are life savers. Saved me from crawling around on the ground during painting. I suspect it will save me from crawling under the layout when I get there.
Bill, definitely use it! I waited around until I was 63 and had one knee replacement before I got one! 
@Aegis21 posted:Ok, would it be possible to let me know what the brand of roll around stool you have, and where to purchase.
Thanks John
John, I got it on Amazon for around $45. I see the model I got is now unavailable, but there are a lot of others to choose from. The brand name is Amolife Amolife Multi-Purpose Hydraulic Adjustable Round Chair 
@MartyE posted:Nice work Mark. I hope you are going to do a story for OGR on this. Looks like a lot of layout in a small space.
Marty, Thank you very much!! You aren't the first to suggest I do an article. I certainly doo have a lot of photographs and text already written to draw upon. It sounds like a winter project. Now that I am retired and we are working on getting my wife retired, I may just come up with some time to do some things I never had time for before.
@Mark Boyce posted:Bill, definitely use it! I waited around until I was 63 and had one knee replacement before I got one!
John, I got it on Amazon for around $45. I see the model I got is now unavailable, but there are a lot of others to choose from. The brand name is Amolife Amolife Multi-Purpose Hydraulic Adjustable Round Chair
Marty, Thank you very much!! You aren't the first to suggest I do an article. I certainly do have a lot of photographs and text already written to draw upon. It sounds like a winter project. Now that I am retired and we are working on getting my wife retired, I may just come up with some time to do some things I never had time for before.
Mark it is really coming along great. You are much further along than I am. I could not run any wiring until I installed the turntable. Not knowing how it would fit and what support I would need to move held all the wiring up. I now have the turntable an early Christmas gift from the love of my life, my wife. The hole is cut and just as I thought directly in the center of the hole is where 4 2x4’s meet so under the table to add the needed support to remove that structure. So you keep up the great work and progress looking forward to your next set of pics. Are you up to meeting at Mercer Junction before he closes the doors?
Rick, Wow that is a lot of work to get the turntable in. I think we could work out meeting at Mercer Junction! 
Nice progress Mark!! The layout is really coming along. I finally found your thread and am now following along with all your progress. I have been itching to get some work done on my layout but I have had limited time due to our ongoing family health situation we have been dealing with.
I did get the ceiling painted black and I am trying to put some finishing touches on the room which will finally allow me to do some real train work!
I will hopefully be posting an update soon. Keep up the great work!
Michael
Looking good Mark. In my years as an electrician we used to use empty spackle buckets to sit on when installing outlets in the walls. At 15" off the floor kneeling for hours would be a killer. I know why all the flooring guys are young too. 
Do a little bit of wiring each day and it will be done before you know it.
Bob
Michael, I am certainly glad you found my topic. Thank you very much! I know what you mean about dealing with family situations. I'm praying all get well! Getting your room ready is a great first step in building a layout! I'm looking forward to seeing what you do in that room!!!
Bob, Yes indeed I know the 'bucket seat' scenario all too well. In fact I was using a bucket with a cushion before I purchased the roll around! When I worked at the power company while in my 30's we sat on wooden stools our director made for us in his home woodworking shop. There was a guy who rose to mid-level management who still cared for his employees!! At the telephone company in my 40's the equipment was in racks, some mounted 2" off the floor. As guys got older, they would have to lay on their sides on the floor to see and work on equipment. Once I moved to engineering I tried to design equipment mounting to not use the space below the knees if at all possible. My brother-in-law (my sister's husband) had an uncle who laid carpet for a living. His knees were shot by his mid-50s even wearing knee pads. I went through the knee pad time until I finally had to get one knee replaced last November. Now I avoid kneeling on the 'good' knee as much as possible.
Bob, I will have to post some photographs of adding the dowel supports for the enginehouse level that you suggested when I get time. I did it yesterday which was a rainy day here. It came out pretty good I think!! Thank you for the suggestion!!
@Mark Boyce posted:Bill, definitely use it! I waited around until I was 63 and had one knee replacement before I got one!
John, I got it on Amazon for around $45. I see the model I got is now unavailable, but there are a lot of others to choose from.
I have one in the garage that I used for working on the lawn mower, dirtbike, and cars. I love it! Now I keep one in the basement too.
Harbor Freight has one that has a little tray on the bottom. It hasn't broke after three years and it's been abused quite a bit (meaning I forgot to put the tailgate up when I put it in the truck bed to take to a friends house). I will totally recommend it.
Anybody know the official day for Mercer Junction closing?
Bill, You certainly have put the Harbor Freight one through the wringer!!
I just copied this off the email Dave sent out earlier this week. All he says is End of the year. I'm sure he will send something out what the last day will be since December 31st is a Thursday.
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Thanks for the info! I do need some Ross Switches. I'll have to find some time to get up there.
I like the progress Mark. Wiring is one step above ballasting on my tedious meter, but it is gratifying when your engines run well. When the time is right perhaps a video of some running on the additions?
Andy
Bill, You're welcome. I want two more Ross switches, and would like to take a run up there soon. Rick, I'll send you an email or PM.
Thank you, Andy! I posted a video a while back before I added some of the switches for sidings. Right now I am having trouble with that GarGrave switch I added for the last siding. Every diesel I have tried runs great over it. However, every steam engine I have tried comes to it, there is a little spark, and it shuts down. I have not been able to see what is causing it, so I may just replace it with a Ross switch after all. This sparking makes me nervous. Once I get this figured out, I'll take a video and post it!
I was able to start on the enginehouse area again now that the yard is in. I used RSJB18 Bob's suggestion of dowels for supports. I cut up two broom handles that my late father-in-law left behind (since 2011 we have lived in the house my wife's grandparents and parents lived in). He would always buy several of everything for spares. I think it worked out great giving me room to get my hands in to the yard when the 0-5-0 switcher is needed. I mocked up the track placement, and it will work out fine. In fact, I removed some mainline track where the switches will go and started putting in the cork roadbed to ramp down to the bare Homasote for the enginehouse area. I didn't get a photograph of that.
Now I am looking for suggestions. I have a 30"x24" painting my aunt painted in 1960. I can recall my uncle leaning it against the wall next to the clothes closet while Dad hung up my uncle's coat. The painting hung in Mum and Dad's living room for nearly 60 years until I brought it home before selling the house this past December. It has been sitting here since with no good place to hang it. I got the idea that maybe I could incorporate it into the backdrop for the layout. The problem is it really doesn't match up with the rest of my backdrop which is positioned in place, but not adjusted for height yet. I had two thoughts. One is this area behind the lower town, but it isn't wide enough. I don't know that I can blend it in well.
The other location is behind the enginehouse. I think this location just doesn't fit well with an enginehouse in front.
This location at the bottom of the mountain grade makes the most sense, but it won't match up well. Anyway, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Mark
Looks like a conundrum.
Mark I think the town area from the choices provided would work best. Could you take the painting to a local copy shop like Office Max, Office Depot or Kinkos and get a color copy made and cut and mount next to the right side to extend the water area or woods on the left?
Mark, perhaps find another place in the room you can hang it - for the memories. And just go ahead and do you backgrounds so they match the layout. I have (as do others) several photos and other images, posters, ads hanging from my walls, but not where they would interfere with the optics of the layout. just my 2 cents since you asked. Looks like you are making great progress. Jeff
Mark, I an with Jeff, Hank it on another wall so you can see it while your in your train room so you always have something to smile about!
Mike
Thank you everyone!!!!
Dave, I agree, it is a perfect fit.
Jeff and Mike, I understand what you mean. This is the only wall space that doesn't have layout; between the two doors. I took down a picture and quickly put Aunt Twila's up. I'm given pictures, and don't have a place to hang them, so they are stacked in a closet. Maybe I should rotate them like rotating rolling stock.
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Rich, you do have a good idea about the copy shop. We have an Office Depot that has a copy area.
@Rich Wiemann posted:Mark I think the town area from the choices provided would work best. Could you take the painting to a local copy shop like Office Max, Office Depot or Kinkos and get a color copy made and cut and mount next to the right side to extend the water area or woods on the left?
Mark,
That's pretty cool that you are incorporating a meaningful family painting into your layout. If you get frustrated, you can always take a photo and size it to scale and store the original. If you did that you might even be able to use the photo in more than one place.
Mike
Thank you, Mike (Iron Horse). That is a good idea too!
Mark, don't try to force it if it don't fit. If you try to force it in, it will stand out and take away from the rest of the layout. It's great if you can make it fit naturally but don't try to force it.
That is a beautiful painting Mark. I think you found the right spot for it too. It was way out of scale for the layout. Resizing a copy might work if you decide to use it on the layout though. Everything else looks good.
Don't know about you, but broom stick handles were stick ball bats where I come from 
. My dad went looking for a spare one day and was wondering why the handle was wrapped with tape.
Bob
Thank you, Pat and Bob!! I am thinking you are both right. If it was someone else's layout, I would say it looks good on the layout. However, I agree the scale bothers me as much as it not blending in well with the rest of the backdrop.
Bob, no stickball here. I have always felt sorry for kids I saw in movies playing stickball in the street. Where I come from, there was no one else to play ball with except my brother. We had one regular bat and ball. We played catch or hit fly balls to each other. As we got older and stronger, we moved from the front yard, to the bottom of our steep hill, to the neighbor's pasture. Yes, the pasture had land mines to dodge!
Growing up in the Bronx, I played stickball all the time. We played in the street using cars and the sewers as basis and we played in parking lots on the weekends using a square drawn on a wall as a strike zone. Now, living on Long Island, I don't see much stick ball played.
Yes Pat, you described just what I remember seeing in the movies. Since this is my topic thread I approve this message; Pat and Bob.
How about hockey? I remember The Penguins had Joey Mullen on their first Stanley Cup teams, who grew up in the "Hells Kitchen" area of New York playing hockey with a discarded stick and roll of electrical tape for a puck. He ended up on two Stanley Cup championships with the Penguins and one with Calgary and is a Hall of Famer.
Stickball on a wall at school- the box was for balls and strikes. Us suburban kids from Lawn Guyland.... didn't use manholes
Street hockey was played with a roll of friction tape for a puck. We played roller hockey for years on the streets. We used to be proud of a perfectly worn roll that slid easily on the pavement. new rolls always took a while to break in.
Mark I think behind the engine would be perfect just raise as high as you can. Then every time you look at that corner you see a beautiful picture and you paint the are under the painting to match the backdrop and blend into the painting. Also the yard under the table is working out great along with the engine house. Really looking good keep up the great progress.
Looking good, Mark.
I would vote for getting a scale-downed copy made and then mounting the copy in an area where it can blend in more with your scenery and backdrops and keep the original in the closet for safekeeping.
I have the same problem of more pictures and posters than wall space to hang them.
@Oman posted:Mark
Looks like a conundrum.
Yes Keith; looks like a conundrum!!
Thank you, Rick and Richie!!
So, as I suspected, more good options were added to the conundrum! Like all layout conundrums, I'll have to sit on the ideas for a while. All have merit, and all have possible problems. I have the cork roadbed down and sanded it down to a taper before getting to where the wye switch will be. I have had problems getting a good taper where I had to go down to the bare wood to get more room under the overpass. So this time, I slopped on some spackling with the wide trowel. It already is smoother, but we will see what it is like after it dries.
@Mark Boyce posted:I have the cork roadbed down and sanded it down to a taper
That's an advantage with cork, that I didn't consider when I went with a foam roadbed. 
I have a poor transition. I'll have to remove the foam roadbed, sand down my plywood sub-roadbed and re-install. I imagine cork is easier to sand than plywood. 
Mark,
Good decision with the painting. One of the things you can do with the area is create a horseshoe-shaped hill that fills in the joint between the backdrop and the wall behind the engine house. Fill the corner with a hill and then plant some trees to blend it in with the backdrop.
Lookin' good!
George
@Oman posted:That's an advantage with cork, that I didn't consider when I went with a foam roadbed.
I have never tried foam, but I can see where it would be difficult to taper. You are so right; cork is certainly easier to sand than plywood! The thing is, it is easy to take off too much and get dips and when it gets thin then the edges crumble off haphazardly. It doesn't have to be perfect because I paint it gray first before putting track down, just to make it look a bit like ballast. Later, I'll ballast and won't know there are such imperfections.
@G3750 posted:Mark,
Good decision with the painting. One of the things you can do with the area is create a horseshoe-shaped hill that fills in the joint between the backdrop and the wall behind the engine house. Fill the corner with a hill and then plant some trees to blend it in with the backdrop.
Lookin' good!
George
Thank you, George! You are right whatever I do for a backdrop, I can blend in with foreground scenery. That is why I didn't completely fasten to the backdrops I bought from you to the supports. I will do that from underneath, then stand on my two step platform to attach to the top. That way, I can raise or lower the backdrop sections some to better fit the scenery. I'm glad I drove to your old house and bought them from you!!
I'm glad, too. It's nice to see them go to a good home and have a second life.
George
Over the last two very rainy days, I worked on the track for the enginehouse and wye. Everything fits, and running a car over everything by hand didn't turn up any glaring problems. I don't have any wires connected to try it out. The wye switch machine caused a bit of a problem because when I laid out the track temporarily, it was where the front corner foundation of the enginehouse should be. I was able to shift it to the left enough to clear and, I still the track all fit. The wye turns so sharply, you can't flip the switch machine around, and since this is on the outside of the main operating area I don't want to use manual throws. It would be awkward to have to lift up the bridges each time I want to operate the switch.
Today was cleaning up some leaves in the cold and then I took a nap. That is all the track I have planned to install, but I do want to run down to McCormick's Hardware on Monday and get a Ross switch to replace the GarGraves I had mechanical trouble with. I hope to get some wiring done soon.
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Mark, things are really looking good! I cant wait to see it up and running! I wish I would have taken a nap today. LOL But no I pushed on in the train room. Going to post in what did you do on your layout today!
I hope your having wonderful weekend!
That looks great Mark. Ideas like that give me something to strive towards.
Jay
Looks great Mark! Love those Western Maryland colors next to your engine shed. With 3 kids, 5 and under, a nap is only something I can dream about, although I did sneak a quick 10 min one in today only because my mom came to visit and she kept the kids occupied 😁
Thank you Mike, Jay, and Michael. Jay, I'm glad to provide someone with some inspiration. I think that though I have built layouts before, my skills aren't what I would like. I have to know that no matter what I do, someone will be pleased.
Michael, I remember being 40 with 2 kids under 5, and there were no naps either; including the toddlers. Those two girls never would nap. Well they grew up and that was just shy of 25 years ago. I don't sleep the best any more, and with the cold wind that takes a lot out of me, I was whipped.
Great progress Mark, would an under table switch machine help at all?
Why not replace the DZ1000 switch machine with a new, much shorter DZ2500? It will give you more room for the Enginehouse. Or, as suggested above, install an under the table Tortoise?
Donald
Mark really making great progress looks good. A little thing I learned about raking leaves if you don’t have any fencing let them become someone else problem the wind will insure that
Thank you, John, Donald, and Rick.
An under the table switch machine would be a good choice except it would stick down into the yard area, and even if it cleared the tops of the cars, I would be bumping it. Someone with better skill than me could maybe put it under the yard and rig a linkage up top, I suppose. I have one Tortoise I bought years ago, but never used, because I ended up using manual throws. I know it would hit boxcars and even open hoppers.
Donald, I did not realize the DZ2500 is much shorter. This is the first I have used Z-stuff and just bought a bunch of DZ1000s. I'll have to look at the DZ2500. Thank you.
Rick, We did that back home, although since they just blew over the hill to the weeds by the crick they became no one's problem. Here, there is a chain link fence at the lower rear of the property that my wife's grandma had put in when she lived here. To the east of us, the guy has let a bank grow up in weeds, so they leaves swirl around at the edge of our yard and the dog tracks them in. I was just watching them swirl while I was washing lunch dishes. We actually only have 3 trees now, but we get leaves from across the road and the neighbor to the west. If I don't do anything, they blow down to the garage door and swirl around coming in anytime you open the door. The same thing happens at the patio that is at the back door. Everything works against me! No wonder my mother-in-law wanted us to buy this place from her so badly! At least this year I am not working, so I can blow and grind up leaves on weekdays instead of working at night with the floodlights on as in previous years.
Looking good!
Peter
Engine house area looks great Mark! It started spitting snow here a bit today which means its almost train room time again lol. Keep up the great work!
Mark, I like the clever use of the wye incorporated into the engine house. BTW, your issue with manual switch operation reminded me of a diy non-electrical turnout throw I recall seeing on youtube for HO or O. It involved a push/pull lever system operated from the edge of the layout for a remote switch. One of my atlas electric switch machines quit a long time ago and I am going to look into a diy project to make a manual remote.
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you, John, Donald, and Rick.
Rick, We did that back home, although since they just blew over the hill to the weeds by the crick they became no one's problem. Here, there is a chain link fence at the lower rear of the property that my wife's grandma had put in when she lived here. To the east of us, the guy has let a bank grow up in weeds, so they leaves swirl around at the edge of our yard and the dog tracks them in. I was just watching them swirl while I was washing lunch dishes. We actually only have 3 trees now, but we get leaves from across the road and the neighbor to the west. If I don't do anything, they blow down to the garage door and swirl around coming in anytime you open the door. The same thing happens at the patio that is at the back door. Everything works against me!
Mark my biggest tree is about 6 feet and no pines trees but a yard full of leaves and pine needles blowing in from the next door neighbor who has a small forest in their yard.
Mark,
My kids and their friends have been raking the leaves in our yard, putting them in their wagon and creating a big pile to jump in. Eventually I will blow them under the row of cypress tress that surrounds the yard...or just let the wind take care of them!
A while ago I saw someone post on here a neat setup they had for mounting DZ2500 switches under the table. I have the link bookmarked somewhere. If I find it I will send it to you. I saved it because I am considering mounting my DZ1000 switch machines under the table for a more realistic look. I know it is a lot more work but I am up for the challenge...at least at this point.
Michael
Thank you Peter, Lance, Pennsynut, Michael.
Yes Lance, it was sleeting here a bit ago. A Forum friend in Northeast Ohio sent me a photograph showing it is snowing there right now. It is forecast for here overnight.
I looked up the DZ2500, and see it says it is 2/3 the size of the DZ1000. That is just the ticket Donald, since the enginehouse is pushed almost up to the backdrop right now! I just checked and Jeff McCormick has the DZ2500 in stock. I added it to my list for the trip tomorrow since the weather will be too bad to clean up leaves.
Michael, I have seen where folks have said they mounted theirs underneath, but don't have a good reference on that.
Here are where my neighbors' leaves end up, trying to bury my 17-year old Hyundai. This was clean this morning. We have had them come in to the top of the steps before. Of course the snow does the same thing. 
The problem with them at the back fence is they bury my wife's lilies of the valley and other flowers, so I have to get them out of there before early spring. I almost didn't make it this March.
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This is just a quick update to report I did get down to McCormick's Hardware in Zelienople this afternoon and purchased 2 Ross switches, one 042 LH to replace the GarGraves I put on the lower siding and one #4 RH to replace the used GarGraves at the back end of the upper passing siding that I wasn't quite happy with. It is too high and close to the wall to fiddle with. Also, I bought a DZ2500 for the wye switch. I laid each down over the existing trackage, and both will only require some easy cutting and fitting to get everything aligned.
With that, all the track will be installed. Yesterday, I did make 4 wiring connections with the Waco snap connectors that someone suggested on another Forum topic. It is hard to initially open the lever, but really snap down tight on the 14 gauge wire. So far, I am happy with them.
Mark, remember to read the wiring template for the switch motors, they are wired differently from each other. Jeff
Wow Jeff!! Thank you so much for the tip! I would have just gotten on a roll, then wondered what I did wrong!!! 
@Mark Boyce posted:
What about a using a Caboose Industries ground throw? You have easy access to this area. Nice to see your track work is almost finished.
Cheers, Dave
Dave, thank you for asking. I have some Caboose Industries ground throws. They work great. This location has very easy access when I am in the aisle outside the loop. So far I have been operating mostly from inside the loop. I took this photograph holding the camera up high to try to get a better view.
The switch in question is on the right in front of the enginehouse that I sat back against the backdrop for the time being. Looking forward from there you can see a 24"x24" section of Mianne benchwork with both levels of track visible. Then in front of that is a temporary narrower section of plywood with two risers supporting the high line with a steam engine on it. That lift out section will be replaced with two lift up bridges, power stopping interlocks, and a manual latch. I would prefer manual switches for less wiring, but regardless of which side of the lift up I am on when operating, I will be on the wrong side for some switch maneuvers. I am thinking I am going to need to be able to operate some switches from either side of the lift up.
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@Mark Boyce posted:Dave, thank you for asking. I have some Caboose Industries ground throws. They work great. This location has very easy access when I am in the aisle outside the loop. So far I have been operating mostly from inside the loop. I took this photograph holding the camera up high to try to get a better view.
The switch in question is on the right in front of the enginehouse that I sat back against the backdrop for the time being. Looking forward from there you can see a 24"x24" section of Mianne benchwork with both levels of track visible. Then in front of that is a temporary narrower section of plywood with two risers supporting the high line with a steam engine on it. That lift out section will be replaced with two lift up bridges, power stopping interlocks, and a manual latch. I would prefer manual switches for less wiring, but regardless of which side of the lift up I am on when operating, I will be on the wrong side for some switch maneuvers. I am thinking I am going to need to be able to operate some switches from either side of the lift up.
Mark, another manual option for the Y switch would be to use GOLD-N-ROD control rod set, Nylon #504. This set comes with a tube & rod that will reach 48". The main use is probably RC airplanes controls but it is easily adapted to most anything the needs a remote push or pull. I used this system on my first HO layout to transfer motion of a ground throw or Tortoise switch machine. Check it out.
Cheers, Dave
Dave, I found it. Thank you. Correct me if I am wrong, but it looks like a bendable system like used for hand brakes on a bicycle. They certainly are inexpensive!!
@Mark Boyce posted:Dave, I found it. Thank you. Correct me if I am wrong, but it looks like a bendable system like used for hand brakes on a bicycle. They certainly are inexpensive!!
Yes, very flexible. There is a yellow nylon core that slides inside the red tube. It would need to be curved and positioned so that the system ends up perpendicular to the switch and parallel to the ties. It needs to push and pull the switch bar to align the switch points. The system could also be hidden under the table. A pin attached to the yellow core would extend up through a hole, much the same as the wire throw on a Tortoise switch machine. You could activate it using a Caboose Ind. ground throw on the other end. I sent Mike G some of the slides I used on my HO layout. You may want to ask him about the system. I believe he used the system on a switch that had a clearance problem. I can send you a short piece of wire/pin that would be good to activate the switch.
Note the diagram: You can't see the yellow slide bar but the wire pin is attached through the yellow slide. A slot is cut in the red tube to allow the yellow slide to move the pin back and forth. Look closely at the bottom tube in the diagram you can see it. Note I activated the slide with a Tortoise switch machine, but a ground throw would work just the same. The machine or ground throw could be located up to 4' from the switch.
Good Luck!
Cheers, Dave
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Dave, Thank you!
Mark, great progress, and some very good suggestions for your switch issue. I had a similar issue with a switch in my main yard and the storage tracks underneath. I had low clearance like you, but I was able to use a Tortoise switch motor in an offset capacity similar to what Dave suggested. I’ll post a few pictures tomorrow.
Andy
Andy, Thank you very much!
Mark this Tortoise switch operates a switch that is 16” away in my yard. I installed this with 6” of height to work with. I couldn’t mount the switch normally because I have staging tracks directly below the switch. If you’re interested, I can locate a YouTube video to walk you through step by step. If I can do this with my ham hands, and carpal tunnel in both, I know you can too!
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Mark---where did you find the source for the rod? Ive looked many places with no avail, I would certainely like to try that system.
@Lyle posted:Mark---where did you find the source for the rod? Ive looked many places with no avail, I would certainely like to try that system.
GOLD-N-ROD control rod set, Nylon #504.
Available at most hobby shops that cater to rc airplanes.
Thanks for all the information guys! just ordered some to have if I need them in the future! LOL
Wow, this took off while I was offline!! Thank you everyone for all the great comments. Andy, the Tortoise installation looks great under the table and above. The Atlas track really looks nice as well. I can appreciate your comment, since I know about carpal tunnel. I have had carpal tunnel surgery twice on each hand! Both were done in 1995 and both again in 2015.
Thank you Dave for sharing that link! It looks like Lyle and Mike benefited as did I!
So Friday evening, I was finishing up the last of my track install and making some permanent power connections. I got out a little box I had some GarGraves bumper posts in and made a discovery! I did not think I had that much train stuff that I would find something I didn't know I had. However, there in the box were two clear plastic bags, one with 5 DZ1000s and the other with 5 DZ push buttons. I do not remember buying them, but assumed I bought them used since the wires and terminal covers were missing. Today, I opened the bags and saw an index card saying 'Thanks' and someone's name. I found that name in my PayPal contacts, but PayPal seems to only let me search back for transactions this year and last. I must have had them since 2018. Here I bought more and never knew I had these 5. 
So, I'll change the topic title since the track is all installed. Permanent wiring has begun. Also a note on the switch operating discussion. I already had received a DZ2500 by the time Dave first mentioned the Gold N Rods. I decided to fasten it down, since I have it and decide later if I'll actually use it. It would work in this application, but I agree the Caboose Industries ground throws and the Tortoise installations look much better. The wires aren't connected as you can actually see the ends of some of them peaking out from under the engine house.
As to height clearance in the yard, I have just a smidgeon over 1 1/2 inches between the roofwalk of this car and the plywood. Of course as shown by Andy, the switch machine could be mounted off to the side somewhere. Man, that does look good Andy!
Well, things to ponder and perhaps more stuff to offer for sale besides some GarGraves and Ross 042, 054, and 064 track and some switches. I'll keep the track for a while and see how I like things and if I want to make changes.
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Mark- I think we all suffer from "Oh! I forgot I bought that!" once and a while. At least it's something that you need right now.
Bob
Bob, Actually, I bought a couple extra a few weeks ago, so that I have DZ1000/2500 on all 13 of my switches. So all 5 that I found are extras! As they say, 'Timing is everything!'
Thanks for the update, Mark.
Keep that knee moving! 
Keep it going Mark really looking good. Try swapping that switch machine to the opposite side away from the engine house looks like you may have enough room there.
Thank you, RT! I was just stretching the knee a few minutes ago.
I just noticed that I forgot to attach the photograph showing the overhead clearance of cars in the yard. I added the photograph in my first post today.
Rick, The ties on the wye switch are 9/16" longer on that side. I was already looking at it and can do that if I rig up a longer linkage than the options that came with the DZ2500. The DZ2500 is short enough to fit in there nicely before the ties that are 9/16" longer yet. Here is an overhead photograph I already posted when I had the longer DZ1000 installed. It is easier to see the difference in length of ties on the other side of the switch. The stuff I never think of until it is staring me in the face!!
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@RSJB18 posted:Mark- I think we all suffer from "Oh! I forgot I bought that!" once and a while.
Bob
Mark and Bob; I cannot count on all my fingers and toes how many times I bought something and forget I had it. The worst I think was when I bought a set of RailKing N&W Passengers cars and got home and was putting them under the platform and found the exact same set, same cars names and everything. I am a big cabin car guy and now I have to record the car number to mark sure I don't repeat and acquire a second of the same number.
Great find Mark! Always a nice surprise to find something you didn’t know you had. Glad to show another option, great information by all. The area is coming together nicely.
Andy
Wow, it has been a while since I did anything noteworthy on the layout. I finished the outdoor fall work and my portion of my wife's Christmas decorating, so I worked on two backboards for my permanent wiring. I plan to hang the TIU and MTH terminal blocks on one side and whatever I put up for switch control and other things on the other side. The shelf provides space for my Z4000 and TMCC controller. By splitting the 24"x24" area in half, I can be within about 13" of everything I'm doing. That is much needed with my farsightedness. I got out the old trifocals this week. This is one side of the place for the lift up bridges.
On the other side of the chasm the bridges will cross, there is a nice 4-foot long area of Mianne benchwork that would be good for shelves for engines and cars. I just had enough 1x2 stock to make a frame to attach the 2 foot x 4 foot section of plywood and provide braces on the backside to attach four aluminum shelves I bought from Alan Dechant (aka MrTrain) from nearby Knox, Pennsylvania. I first thought of painting the plywood white to show off the shelved trains, but then thought it might be nice to use the same light blue I used to paint the walls. There is a wall across the aisle painted that shade as one enters the train room.
With that I have finished the carpentry work until I think of something else, so I moved some of those tools back to the garage. It is a little less crowded now in an 11x11 room with an 8x11 walk-in layout with an 30"x30" extension in one corner.
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Mark, I like the wye. How much space is taken up from the entrance out?
Thanks
Jay
Jay, thank you for asking. I'm not exactly sure what dimension you are referring to, so I'll post a couple screenshots of the SCARM plan. First the whole plan with the lower level yard tracks and one siding not shown.
This one may tell you what you are asking. The numbers on the top and left side are in inches. So left to right the switch off the main line starts at roughly 72 inches and the end of the wye in front of the engine house is about 114 inches. So that dimension is roughly 42 inches. If you mean from the closer switch which is about 92 inches to the same point in front of the engine house 114 inches, then the distance is 22 inches. If this doesn't answer the question, please let me know.
I'll have to update the SCARM file for the yard and siding I added after the last drawing.
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Thank you Mark. I’m still mulling my engine facilities since they do devour a lot of real estate. But, I really like what you did there. You have the facility and the turn around too.
Things sure are looking nice. At the Blackwater railway! Keep up the wonderful work and post Mark. It really helps the rest of us keep going!
Thank you, Jay and Mike!!
I wasn't going to put an engine service area in until I received an offer to buy the engine house. Based on its measurements, it could go a couple places, so I bought it. Then once I had it, it got me thinking. It's kind of the same with the little yard below. It will really serve as a staging yard so to speak. Who would have thought I could fit it all in?
Mike, I sure hope the doctors and Mrs G will be able to let you back to the work on the layout soon. When you are able to work on your layout it keeps me going!
@Mark Boyce posted:Wow, it has been a while since I did anything noteworthy on the layout. I finished the outdoor fall work and my portion of my wife's Christmas decorating, so I worked on two backboards for my permanent wiring. I plan to hang the TIU and MTH terminal blocks on one side and whatever I put up for switch control and other things on the other side. The shelf provides space for my Z4000 and TMCC controller. By splitting the 24"x24" area in half, I can be within about 13" of everything I'm doing. That is much needed with my farsightedness. I got out the old trifocals this week.
On the other side of the chasm the bridges will cross, there is a nice 4-foot long area of Mianne benchwork that would be good for shelves for engines and cars. I just had enough 1x2 stock to make a frame to attach the 2 foot x 4 foot section of plywood and provide braces on the backside to attach four aluminum shelves I bought from Alan Dechant (aka MrTrain) from nearby Knox, Pennsylvania. I first thought of painting the plywood white to show off the shelved trains, but then thought it might be nice to use the same light blue I used to paint the walls. There is a wall across the aisle painted that shade as one enters the train room.
With that I have finished the carpentry work until I think of something else, so I moved some of those tools back to the garage. It is a little less crowded now in an 11x11 room with an 8x11 walk-in layout with an 30"x30" extension in one corner.
Nice Work Mark! Great ideas with the electrical center and having display shelves. Looking forward to how you wire the layout.
Holy crap bananas Mark! It has been way too long since my eyes got in here last time, mid October dang it. I like the progress, scratch that, love the progress since then.
I got to apologise for taking this long to get back in here. Work has been nuts and with me following more people and topics than what I am normally used to, somehow this got off the radar. Well, fixed that now. Following you so I hopefully won't get lost.
I really love everything going on, and the dimensions are just about around what I am thinking on the back bedroom I want to work on. I've got to make time(know any clockmakers) and get back on the design phase on that. I had only popped two ovals and hadn't had time to get back in there. I'll have to message you later on either this week or next depending on what craziness ensues here. P.S., watch out for the snow. Coming down here sideways with some wind. Not going to work good for me as I have to go back out in it. Maybe I'll think of Some Like It Hot when the fellas are skipping to the train to get out of Chicago.
@Aegis21 posted:Nice Work Mark! Great ideas with the electrical center and having display shelves. Looking forward to how you wire the layout.
Thank you, John!! Yes, I have all the wires connected to each insulated track section and pulled back to the "nerve center". I'll definitely describe what I am doing when I start mounting everything anc terminating wires. I'll be looking for someone to catch me on the way and suggest a better way since I will be using all products I never used before.
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you, John!! Yes, I have all the wires connected to each insulated track section and pulled back to the "nerve center". I'll definitely describe what I am doing when I start mounting everything anc terminating wires. I'll be looking for someone to catch me on the way and suggest a better way since I will be using all products I never used before.
Mark, the layout looks awesome! The part where wires are getting pulled is my least favorite. I was doing plenty of crawling around on my hands and knees on the concrete floor last weekend. I'm not "old" in the "model railroader" sense, but I'm definitely feeling that concrete floor for a couple days after. And I still have lots to do.
Jeff
@Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:Holy crap bananas Mark! It has been way too long since my eyes got in here last time, mid October dang it. I like the progress, scratch that, love the progress since then.
I got to apologise for taking this long to get back in here. Work has been nuts and with me following more people and topics than what I am normally used to, somehow this got off the radar. Well, fixed that now. Following you so I hopefully won't get lost.
I really love everything going on, and the dimensions are just about around what I am thinking on the back bedroom I want to work on. I've got to make time(know any clockmakers) and get back on the design phase on that. I had only popped two ovals and hadn't had time to get back in there. I'll have to message you later on either this week or next depending on what craziness ensues here. P.S., watch out for the snow. Coming down here sideways with some wind. Not going to work good for me as I have to go back out in it. Maybe I'll think of Some Like It Hot when the fellas are skipping to the train to get out of Chicago.
Dave, I'm glad you found your way back to Blackwater Canyon!
Yes, while the room was actually built only to support the sunroom above, it is the typical size and shape as a lot of bedrooms. That is a thought for me as we could possibly relocate to a single level home, I could take this layout apart and move it to a bedroom. Or I could just save the buildings, track, and do something else.
The forecast is for the bulk of the snow to stay north of I-80, and we are just a little south of The Keystone Shortway. Most of the lake effect snow from Lake Erie doesn't bother us, but it really pounds Erie, Pennsylvania. We did get hit with some early snow last week. That first wet snowfall really tested my small, old snowblower. It doesn't have enough power to handle a lot of the wet stuff. I was going to buy a new one before I retired, but the phone company beat me to that one. Maybe I shouldn't have bought that last O-gauge engine and bought a snowblower instead. Nah!
@Jeff_the_Coaster_Guy posted:Mark, the layout looks awesome! The part where wires are getting pulled is my least favorite. I was doing plenty of crawling around on my hands and knees on the concrete floor last weekend. I'm not "old" in the "model railroader" sense, but I'm definitely feeling that concrete floor for a couple days after. And I still have lots to do.
Jeff
Jeff, Thank you!!! I bought a new adjustable roll around stool with a nice padded seat this past summer. I sat on it pulling all the wire. I did have to twist my neck and use my reading glasses, bifocals, and even got out my old trifocals from before my cataract surgeries; and still sometimes I was going by touch more than sight. Those Wago connectors with the lever action were a really good thing when I couldn't get the right lens and focal length to see well enough to make a connection! Now I can sit on the stool with my regular glasses and do the work on my double sided board!
With losing weight in 2012 I am always sore in the keister. No padding at all. With one knee replaced last year, I can only kneel on one knee, and I don't want to blow it out either. I had trouble in the attic getting Christmas decorations out. The rolling seat isn't low enough, so I am thinking of finding a small padded creeper to sit on and just leave up there. My wife has two fake knees, so she can't kneel either.
@Mark Boyce posted:Dave, I'm glad you found your way back to Blackwater Canyon!
Maybe I shouldn't have bought that last O-gauge engine and bought a snowblower instead. Nah!
Mark, here's the thing: snow melts all by itself .......[finally] 
BTW, I love the engine house. Funny how frequently it comes a matter of inches or even one inch to make something work. I really wanted to stretch a siding making room for one more spot. By using a short curve section I added a bit of length while avoiding cars crashing into the wall....and its all good.
Don't worry Mark, down the road I am going to try and scratch build an o gauge snow blower!
I will let you know how that goes. But then again the snow might be melted by then!
Mark, here are a couple pics of making-it-fit on the PER. Not nearly as finicky as you getting the engine house, it's tracks and the necessary track switches to fit and work but the same idea:
Room a bit too small? Pshaw! Just pretzel it until it does fit.
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@geysergazer posted:Mark, here's the thing: snow melts all by itself
BTW, I love the engine house.
Lew, Tell my mother-in-law! If I do her snow, I might as well do ours. She doesn't even drive, and if I walk over with the snowblower, I can certainly carry her mail in.
The software helps get started, but trying things out helps you and me both figure out how we can gain a bit more action out of a relatively small space. Of course those great looking switchers of yours really helps!!! The wall is the ultimate bumper post!! None of my engines will roll off the table if I don't kill power. Now, I do need to add interlocks to keep them from rolling intot he gorge if the bridge isn't in place!!
@mike g. posted:Don't worry Mark, down the road I am going to try and scratch build an o gauge snow blower!
I will let you know how that goes. But then again the snow might be melted by then!
That sounds like a plan, Mike!!!
