Mark,
I like your control station/train storage area. That is a great use of that space and very functional! It was neat seeing your entire layout in SCARM. I have seen pictures of your layout but not the entire thing from an overhead view. Very cool. By the way, an O Gauge engine is a much better purchase than a new snow blower.......at least it's a lot more fun 
!
Michael
Thank you, Michael, Yes indeed, the engine is a lot more fun!! 
Keep in mind the SCARM plan dies not have the yard switches and tracks under the enginehouse of an additional siding on the lower level. I'll have to add them.
Ahh yes, now that you mention it I did forget you don't have those extra tracks on the SCARM plan yet.
For now, it is easy to imagine. Sort of underneath the overpass a switch comes off the mainline and 2 more switches are underneath the wye and engine house with the shortest track in the back. Around the curve past the underpass is a switch with a track going under the underpass and leads to a long siding near the aisle in the section of the layout at the top of the drawing. I'll try to work on that today and post.
@Mark Boyce posted:Lew, Tell my mother-in-law!
If I do her snow, I might as well do ours. She doesn't even drive, and if I walk over with the snowblower, I can certainly carry her mail in.
The software helps get started, but trying things out helps you and me both figure out how we can gain a bit more action out of a relatively small space. Of course those great looking switchers of yours really helps!!! The wall is the ultimate bumper post!! None of my engines will roll off the table if I don't kill power. Now, I do need to add interlocks to keep them from rolling intot he gorge if the bridge isn't in place!!
I'm with Lew on this. Think of the Godfather, "Leave the gun, take the cannolli." So, "Leave the snowblower, buy the engine." The other thing is you could always get young lads to shovel snow from somewhere, maybe a nearby school has one of those "rent" programs to raise money for the school. There's always those options. With your very nice guy attitude, I doubt that it would be impossible for someone to help with the snow. Oh, another option which don't know how rural it is by you would be if there was a farmer around. If there are the ones with equipment to do so like by me, you could always get a favor that way.
Waiting for future updates, see what comes. Time to get back to work, good thing it is nice outside, don't need the coat, and won't feel like the express trains during winter months with icy weather blowing in faces when out and about.
@Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:I'm with Lew on this. Think of the Godfather, "Leave the gun, take the cannoli." So, "Leave the snowblower, buy the engine." The other thing is you could always get young lads to shovel snow from somewhere, maybe a nearby school has one of those "rent" programs to raise money for the school. There's always those options. With your very nice guy attitude, I doubt that it would be impossible for someone to help with the snow. Oh, another option which don't know how rural it is by you would be if there was a farmer around. If there are the ones with equipment to do so like by me, you could always get a favor that way.
Waiting for future updates, see what comes. Time to get back to work, good thing it is nice outside, don't need the coat, and won't feel like the express trains during winter months with icy weather blowing in faces when out and about.
LOL Dave and Lew!!!!!!!!!!
The option for me would be to ask one of the deacons from our church to get one of the high school or college boys stuck at home taking classes on line to take care of it. When I had my carpal tunnel surgeries, one of the deacons asked if I needed that kind of help knowing our daughters were away in college. In the past my mother-in-law was spoiled by the son-in-law of her neighbor who would bring his plow over to do his mother-in-law's and my mother-in-law's after he was done plowing his bowling alley parking lot. The neighbor lady is now in a nursing home, and the house is up for sale. Mum was expecting him to come over anyway. Why???? When he didn't come, even though it was still snowing hard, she flipped out. 
Actually it is normally not a problem with that machine, especially now that I am retired. It is only those snows at 32 degrees that make it a little more of a hassle.
Back to the layout. I got one hole cut in the backboard for passing the power cords through yesterday. That's it, before I was "called away." Not worth a photograph. So Lew, I "haven't done a bloody thing all day!" 
Friday I painted the layout front panel entering the room the same light blue I used to paint the room walls. When two coats were dry, I mounted the MrTrain (Alan Dechant) shelves. I started mounting them closer together, but discovered I had trouble getting my hands in for a firm grip on the scale engines. I wound up placing the shelves 6 1/4" apart. I had to repaint where I had changed my mind for mounting holes. I like how it turned out. I won't mount any shelves closer to the floor, because it is too far down to lift properly. The layout top edge covers the shelves edge, so I shouldn't have to worry about dropping something on them. I still want to install a fascia board for a cleaner look and a little more protection. The edge is 27" from the wall, so I couldn't get a straight on photograph of the whole set of shelves.
Saturday and Sunday I mounted my TIU, two MTH 24-port terminal strips, and two PSX-1AC solid state circuit breakers. Before mounting to the plywood, I connected the TIU fixed outputs to the PSX-1AC and put a short circuit on the output. The voltmeter on the output showed the solid state circuit breaker tripped before the Z4000 breaker tripped. When I removed the short circuit, output voltage was restored. The top terminal strip is for TIU fixed output 1 which feeds the mainline blocks. I tested each block with an engine as I connected each. The bottom Terminal strip will be TIU fixed output 2 and feed all sidings. I still need to get some switches so I can turn off power to any siding and leave the others powered. Actually I haven't decided what switches to get or how I will make a panel to mount them. The wires to the track are only loosely bound so I can add the rest of the feeders. Please ignore the crooked devices. I can't seem to do anything straight any more. 
Thank you for looking!!
Coming along nicely!
Thank you, Marty!!
Mark,
You're really making some good progress these days. Your shelving looks great. That's a nice way of storing/displaying all those beautiful locomotives! Your control station is very nice as well. It is nice to have everything in one place that's easily accessible. I noticed that you are using the PSX-1AC circuit breakers. I have heard about them, but hadn't thought much about using them or any additional circuit protection on my layout other than what is built into the Z4000 and the TIU after reading Barry's book. I know this has been discussed quite extensively on this forum and I don't want to derail your topic. Just wondering now if I should invest in them on my layout. What has been your experience and what led you to include them in your setup?
Keep up the great work! You'll be ready for serious scenery in no time.
Michael
Thank you, Michael! I have not experienced any disastrous incidents. At first my understanding was that you needed surge protection on the outputs of ZWs when running engines with modern electronics. Then I read about using TVSs on even Modern transformers/power packs. Later I read of someone on the Forum who recommended the PSX-1AC. I wish I remember who it was to give credit. It may be that it is overkill, but my 43 years experience in the power and telecommunications industries ingrained double protection into my brain.
I can’t wait to getting started building scenery. 👍🏻
For the price per protection, this is not costly at all. Good choice Mark
@Mark Boyce posted:
Thank you for looking!!
Ah yes, the wiring... The 800-pound gorilla in the room. Great work so far Mark.
Looks good Mark. I can see the telcom technician in you coming out.
Love to see the progress Mark! Gets me motivated to put more effort into my layout.
I especially like how you mounted all your controls. I think I would like to do something similar.
Thank you John, Kevin, Bob, Bill!
Yes the 800 pound gorilla! Bob, too bad they don't have punch down blocks that will handle #12 wire!! You would think I should know what I am doing, but as I move forward I think of things I need to do that I hadn't thought of and have to decide how to approach it. I forgot about buying switches for the sidings that I want to be able to turn off individually. I also haven't thought through or found a method online, in photographs or videos, of raising the bridges or even what kind of bridges to use. Also, the power interlock needs to be taken care of. I have seen lots of methods, but haven't decided which method to use so I can buy hinges, switches, etc. I have two bridges here that would look good stationary, but I don't think either would work well in a lift up mechanism. I am starting to lean towards just using two different boards and work out all the mechanical and electrical issues, then figure out what style bridge would work well and look good. Kind of like my decision to use the inexpensive plastic timber piers for my elevated area and come up with a better looking method later.
Yes Bill, seeing what others are doing helps get me motivated too!
Mark that really looks great I love how you set up your control panel, giving me some ideas. I am still chasing that 800 pound gorilla, it is kinda of intimidating me right now. I have an idea what and how I want to do it but keep looking for excuses to not start building my control panel. Could I interest you in building it I have all the wire a wheeled cart and I "THINK" everything else, except a couple of rotary switches for the turntable whisker tracks and switches for my sidings.LOL . Really nice work your electrical/telecomm back ground is showing in all the nice and neat way you have assembled everything.
Mark tell me more about this PSX-1AC Breaker arrangement you are using? Just looking at them on line and sounds interesting?
Mark, for the siding switches I have been happy with a simple rocker switch. Twidec KCD1-2-101-X-H about a $1 each in packs of ten. They are not lit but it would be easy to add LEDs which have the rectifier such as the Evans Design units. I like the round design, because I only have to drill a hole and insert (well there is a touch of a file for the indexing key).
While I wish I did not have to have lift outs in my layout, of my three bridges, the MTH is on a door hinge "swing out" and the other two are lift outs. All three have soldered rail connections and banana plugs so I can completely remove the bridges as needed. Unfortunately in an emergency, I have to "dive under" the 3 bridges, it takes too long to move the bridges. The only other thing I should do is install a microswitch to cut power when the bridges are removed. I have had a few close calls forgetting one bridge was not in place when I decided to run a train.
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you John, Kevin, Bob, Bill!
Yes the 800 pound gorilla!
Yes Bill, seeing what others are doing helps get me motivated too!
Mark- I used these switches for sidings and blocks. The leads are already soldered to the terminals so they are easy to wire up. Lot's of similar options if you want illuminated, or DPST, etc.
Bob
Mark: You have moved light years forward from 4 years ago. Congratulations.
Rick, Jeff, Bob, John, Thank you!
Rick, I'll get back to you on the PSX-1AC Breaker tomorrow. I can send you the scoop. I missed seeing your question while looking on the phone and just saw it now.
Jeff and Bob, those are both good examples of something to buy. I like the pre-soldered wires. I can do it, but not as good as I once did. I don't need indicator lights, I would rather keep things as simple as possible. Less to go wrong. 
Jeff, I am tempted to leave my temporary lift out in place ans if my roller seat is there I can sit on it and roll under. If I duck under, I invariably catch my back on the edge and need to check alignment.
John, Yes 4 years in less than a month. Hard to believe it has been that long, but we certainly covered a lot of ground in those 4 years! After all the changes, Blackwater Canyon Line is still the concept.
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you, Michael! I have not experienced any disastrous incidents. At first my understanding was that you needed surge protection on the outputs of ZWs when running engines with modern electronics. Then I read about using TVSs on even Modern transformers/power packs. Later I read of someone on the Forum who recommended the PSX-1AC. I wish I remember who it was to give credit. It may be that it is overkill, but my 43 years experience in the power and telecommunications industries ingrained double protection into my brain.
I can’t wait to getting started building scenery. 👍🏻
Mark, thanks for the info on the PSX-AC's. I have been reading up on them. Do you have yours between the TIU outputs and the terminal blocks? If so, do they cause any DCS signal loss? I have read that can be a problem. I see some people put them between the transformer and the TIU inputs to eliminate signal loss. I would love to hear your thoughts on this. I'm considering possibly getting some for my layout. Thanks.
Michael
Wow Mark, that is a beautiful wiring job! Nice, neat, and clean. Very impressive'...🎅🏻 ☑
Great work on the wiring! I feel your struggles with the dual bridges at different heights. Especially the lower bridge. You are doing great and I wish this pandemic wasn't so bad right now, I'd love to help if I could. I am sure I would learn much more than I would help.
Thank you Michael, Ted, and John!!
Michael, you brought up an interesting point about having the the PSX-1AC after the TIU could degrade the signal. I hadn't thought of it, but it is a good point. I tested with the PSX-1AC removed from the circuit and in the circuit after the TIU as I had wired. I read a signal level of 10 in both situations. I ran an engine again in both situations, and didn't see a difference. However, since my layout is small a difference may not be noticed.
I did some searching for information on the PSX-1AC for both this situation and a description for Rick. Why is it that Google finds the best information for us on none other than the OGR Forum??!! Here is a video that Gary (superwarp1) put on YouTube in 2012 and referred to in this November 2017 topic circuit-breakers-not-tripping-fast-enough. He gives a nice rundown on the PSX and says what Michael referred to about the signal being possibly degraded if it is installed like I did between the TIU and track. I think I will swap the wires around and put the PSX-1ACs between the Z4000 and TIU.
As to the wiring. Thank you for the compliments. I was actually thinking it is kind of messy because I am using up some #12 that is more flexible than the new rolls of #12, both stranded of course. With this small number of feeds on a small layout it isn't a big deal.
As an aside, (if you don't want to read war stories skip to the next paragraph.) The first half of my 43 years working were mostly with a power company in Virginia. I served as an unofficial field engineer for circuit protection and control in the substations. The older panels we had (early 1960's and before) were shear works of art, with all the wires perfectly in order and fanning out in different directions, laced up with waxed string perfectly. By the time I started working in 1976, the electricians were using plastic cable ties, but everything was neat as a pin, perfectly spaced leading to terminal blocks. Occasionally we wired something in or moved something, and I had excellent examples to follow to make things easy. When I started in Telecom in 1997, the wiring and fiber optics were neat in the central offices, but out at customer locations it was a crap shoot. One customer location in the far northern Pittsburgh suburbs was so bad that overloaded wall mounted wire racks had pulled away from the walls and some were laying on the floor. Of course our demarc for the circuit I had to test was in a corner and the customer told me to just tramp on everything to get there!! 
I was sure I was going to take down his data center!! I found a power strip back there that had power cords for his ethernet switches or routers that were half pulled out!! I was able to get enough slack to push them in tight, and I got my testing done without pulling anything loose to my knowledge. 
What a nightmare! I was glad to move to network engineering for my last 10 years and not have to delve into literal rats nests any more!
John, I know what you mean about the pandemic messing with us. We are both retired and could help each other now and then, but the way it is right now we are taking the advantage of staying home as much as possible. I would hate to catch it and give it to my high risk wife or my mother-in-law when I drop off groceries of stop in to fix something.
Mark Thank you for finding and posting the video I found interesting and enlightening. I think I may have to look into picking up several of the PSX-1AC Breakers. I am currently using a Z4000 but am thinking about using a PW ZW for sidings and whisker tracks off the TT thru the Variable side of the TIU as I have several PS!1 and conventional locomotives that I will be running.
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you Michael, Ted, and John!!
Michael, you brought up an interesting point about having the the PSX-1AC after the TIU could degrade the signal. I hadn't thought of it, but it is a good point. I tested with the PSX-1AC removed from the circuit and in the circuit after the TIU as I had wired. I read a signal level of 10 in both situations. I ran an engine again in both situations, and didn't see a difference. However, since my layout is small a difference may not be noticed.
I did some searching for information on the PSX-1AC for both this situation and a description for Rick. Why is it that Google finds the best information for us on none other than the OGR Forum??!!
As to the wiring. Thank you for the compliments. I was actually thinking it is kind of messy because I am using up some #12 that is more flexible than the new rolls of #12, both stranded of course. With this small number of feeds on a small layout it isn't a big deal.
As an aside, (if you don't want to read war stories skip to the next paragraph.) The first half of my 43 years working were mostly with a power company in Virginia. I served as an unofficial field engineer for circuit protection and control in the substations. The older panels we had (early 1960's and before) were shear works of art, with all the wires perfectly in order and fanning out in different directions, laced up with waxed string perfectly. By the time I started working in 1976, the electricians were using plastic cable ties, but everything was neat as a pin, perfectly spaced leading to terminal blocks. Occasionally we wired something in or moved something, and I had excellent examples to follow to make things easy. When I started in Telecom in 1997, the wiring and fiber optics were neat in the central offices, but out at customer locations it was a crap shoot. One customer location in the far northern Pittsburgh suburbs was so bad that overloaded wall mounted wire racks had pulled away from the walls and some were laying on the floor. Of course our demarc for the circuit I had to test was in a corner and the customer told me to just tramp on everything to get there!!
John, I know what you mean about the pandemic messing with us. We are both retired and could help each other now and then, but the way it is right now we are taking the advantage of staying home as much as possible. I would hate to catch it and give it to my high risk wife or my mother-in-law when I drop off groceries of stop in to fix something.
Just adding this into the mix for circuit protection. I am hopping to use these between tiu and track. Does anyone know the max. output of the tiu? Is it greater than 7.5 amps? These are super quick trip
Rick, I'm glad I was able to find it for you. I don't intend to hook up an audio indication to mine. So far I left mine set at 4 amps. I wanted to see how it worked out then I'll jumper to 8.4 amps like Gary did.
That brings us to John's question. Before supper, I was looking it up. I think the output max of the TIU is 10 Amps per output, but didn't find it in writing. The most I have had was 5.x amps with two 4-motor engines and a bunch of lit passenger cars. I just came in from snow blowing and shoveling for a break and to shed my coveralls. I would look farther, but I need to go over to my mother-in-law's and clear a path to her mailbox and take her garbage can out. The 7.5 breaker is right in the ballpark with the 8.4 amp setting on the PSX.
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you Michael, Ted, and John!!
Michael, you brought up an interesting point about having the the PSX-1AC after the TIU could degrade the signal. I hadn't thought of it, but it is a good point. I tested with the PSX-1AC removed from the circuit and in the circuit after the TIU as I had wired. I read a signal level of 10 in both situations. I ran an engine again in both situations, and didn't see a difference. However, since my layout is small a difference may not be noticed.
I did some searching for information on the PSX-1AC for both this situation and a description for Rick. Why is it that Google finds the best information for us on none other than the OGR Forum??!!
As to the wiring. Thank you for the compliments. I was actually thinking it is kind of messy because I am using up some #12 that is more flexible than the new rolls of #12, both stranded of course. With this small number of feeds on a small layout it isn't a big deal.
As an aside, (if you don't want to read war stories skip to the next paragraph.) The first half of my 43 years working were mostly with a power company in Virginia. I served as an unofficial field engineer for circuit protection and control in the substations. The older panels we had (early 1960's and before) were shear works of art, with all the wires perfectly in order and fanning out in different directions, laced up with waxed string perfectly. By the time I started working in 1976, the electricians were using plastic cable ties, but everything was neat as a pin, perfectly spaced leading to terminal blocks. Occasionally we wired something in or moved something, and I had excellent examples to follow to make things easy. When I started in Telecom in 1997, the wiring and fiber optics were neat in the central offices, but out at customer locations it was a crap shoot. One customer location in the far northern Pittsburgh suburbs was so bad that overloaded wall mounted wire racks had pulled away from the walls and some were laying on the floor. Of course our demarc for the circuit I had to test was in a corner and the customer told me to just tramp on everything to get there!!
John, I know what you mean about the pandemic messing with us. We are both retired and could help each other now and then, but the way it is right now we are taking the advantage of staying home as much as possible. I would hate to catch it and give it to my high risk wife or my mother-in-law when I drop off groceries of stop in to fix something.
Mark, thanks for all the info on the PSX-1AC's! I haven't had time to watch the video yet but will do so in the next day or so. Do you use the manual reset buttons? Hope you made out ok with all the snow. We got mostly rain here.
Michael
You're welcome, Michael! I did not put in a manual reset button. The instructions that came with the PSX-1AC didn't mention it, unless I skipped over it. With my tests, I only left the short on for a second or so. After removing the short, it reset on it's own in a few seconds. I'll have to hold a short on longer and see what happens. I did manage to rewire it so the PSX-1AC is between the Z4000 and TIU, but haven't done any more testing.
There were 5 to 6 inches of snow on the ground while I was out snow blowing and shoveling the steps and sidewalk. Another inch came down while I was working. Looking out at 5:00 (I woke up and couldn't go back to sleep) there may be about 8 inches total. I did fine. It was a good workout for me. 
I ordered two bundles of ten of the Donjon switches Bob used. The only deciding factor over Jeff's rocker switches was with the long handle, I will be able to tell if it is on or off by the position of the handle without wiring in an indicator light. I know that so many modelers like to have indicator lights and it is a great idea. I want to keep things as simple as possible. After 43 years working in electronics it is more that I want to move on to something more fun than wiring.
@Mark Boyce you will be done by Christmas, right? LOL! Interesting short protection. I vaguely remember Gary's @superwarp1 video.
I woke up in the middle of the night and thought about Mark's circuit info here from a few days ago. I decided I would ask some questions but it looks like those questions have already been addressed. Thanks guys.
Good morning Mark, I am sorry I am a few days late, but thats me a day late and a dollar short! LOL
Things are really looking great and you sure have provided alot of information for the rest of us! I might have to switch out my breakers to the PSX-1AC. I haven't had any problems yet,but why look a gift horse in the mouth! Keep up the great work and I will try to keep up to date faster.
As for your bridge you could try my method, Let me know what you thinkas I have the drawings and other information you might need.
@MartyE posted:@Mark Boyce you will be done by Christmas, right? LOL! Interesting short protection. I vaguely remember Gary's @superwarp1 video.
Absolutely, Marty! Even with snow removal at two houses! LOL How much did you get? I measured 8 inches here in Butler. I'm thinking by Channel 11's Steven Cropper's predictions, you may have gotten more. I wish I could remember who else wrote about the PSX-1AC, that influenced me to buy them. I don't think it was Gary, and it was definitely not as far back as 2017. I should do a search for that topic, but that would interfere with getting this done by Christmas!!.
Iron Horse, you are welcome! Actually this is how I really thought through problems during my working days. It was always someone who asked a question of me who got me digging in further, even when it was a guy I was supposed to be training. Someone always asks the question I never think of!
Mike, Thank you!! Once again your lift up bridge is fantastic!! I have thought of it from time to time. I saw someone do something similar on YouTube with the pivoting end of the track going down into the layout. If I did that, I would have to have one switch lift left and the other right because switches for my two passing sidings come right up to the 'chasm'. That's no big deal however. I have been afraid yours is too mechanically complicated for me to pull off. However, I would greatly appreciate it if you could send me drawings and other documentation. How long is your bridge and who manufactured it? Thank you!
@Mark Boyce posted:Mike, Thank you!! Once again your lift up bridge is fantastic!! I have thought of it from time to time. I saw someone do something similar on YouTube with the pivoting end of the track going down into the layout. If I did that, I would have to have one switch lift left and the other right because switches for my two passing sidings come right up to the 'chasm'. That's no big deal however. I have been afraid yours is too mechanically complicated for me to pull off. However, I would greatly appreciate it if you could send me drawings and other documentation. How long is your bridge and who manufactured it? Thank you!
Hi Mark, The lift bridge is one of the things we could have worked on if not for covid. I did get all the hardware and will make my best attempt at it with the atlas 40" Pratt Truss bridge. Mike was gracious and of so obliging to send me the plans. With your situation on having one bridge lower presents some interesting challenges for sure. I am no where near even looking at how I will implement Mike's plans as I haven't gotten even one complete benchwork section done. 
John, I will have to do some wood additions no matter what route I take and cut out the notch for the section of track to pivot down for something like Mike's plan. That's not a big deal. I have an Atlas bridge that is 24" long with a 32" section of track that would work well. I bought it used and damaged. I didn't realize from the photographs one section of the top of the truss is beyond help. I also have the single track Menards through truss bridge. It looks good, except it is so high it makes it look out of scale especially next to another bridge. I may sell it. Yes you are a long way off from implementing the lift up. I could do it any time now, but don't have to until I really know what plan to use. I can run with my lift out in the meantime. As John C mentioned, it has been 4 years since I asked for help planning, and 1 year next month since I started construction on Plan D. It is a good place to be. The initial phases of construction are hard because everyone wants to start running trains, and it is tempting to take shortcuts that will be regretted later.
@Mark Boyce posted:John, I will have to do some wood additions no matter what route I take and cut out the notch for the section of track to pivot down for something like Mike's plan.
The initial phases of construction are hard because everyone wants to start running trains, and it is tempting to take shortcuts that will be regretted later.
Amen to that! I am tempted everyday to say, yep it is good yet there are things that need working out. huge temptation!
I did get both PSX-1ACs moved to between the Z4000 and the TIU Fixed inputs. I also pulled back the two pairs of wires that feed my Ceiling Central Railroad in the next room to where I can splice in longer wires. I might as well connect them to the second output that I am going to put in switches to turn them off except when running trains on the Ceiling Central RR. Maybe I should just pull new wire that will reach the whole distance and eliminate a splice under the layout. That is probably a better way to go.
@Mark Boyce posted:I did get both PSX-1ACs moved to between the Z4000 and the TIU Fixed inputs. I also pulled back the two pairs of wires that feed my Ceiling Central Railroad in the next room to where I can splice in longer wires. I might as well connect them to the second output that I am going to put in switches to turn them off except when running trains on the Ceiling Central RR. Maybe I should just pull new wire that will reach the whole distance and eliminate a splice under the layout. That is probably a better way to go.
Mark, If you have the wire lenght to make a continugous run without splicing and it is not too difficult now to change, then that is the wise choice.
@Mark Boyce posted:I did get both PSX-1ACs moved to between the Z4000 and the TIU Fixed inputs. I also pulled back the two pairs of wires that feed my Ceiling Central Railroad in the next room to where I can splice in longer wires. I might as well connect them to the second output that I am going to put in switches to turn them off except when running trains on the Ceiling Central RR. Maybe I should just pull new wire that will reach the whole distance and eliminate a splice under the layout. That is probably a better way to go.
I recently created a short that disabled my TIU. It was a dumb move on my part as I had placed an object on the track that created the short and forgot about it as I tried to power up my layout. My Z4000 is under my layout so I did not notice the blinking red light before several attempts and minutes had passed. The result was that a transistor on the TIU blew apart. I was lucky as my area MTH technician was able to bring it back to life.
I now have a fast-blow-fuse resting in a mini-blade in-line fuse holder between my TIU and Z4000. This is another option for surge protection.
Cheers, Dave
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