John, I just rolled back up the screen and noted what looks like the second track for the yard is coming off the start of the outside curve. Is this an added on stub siding or the second yard track?
I believe my bump out allowed for both yard entrance tracks to come off of the double slip switch which would allow for a longer grade. Please refresh this old man's memory.
Tom, you're actually correct. Somehow that got lost in the shuffle, I liked it better the way we had it before. It's back, and I even save a switch, I already have the 101 in hand. 
I added the table extension as near as I can come with the track planning program. 
So, the old man (your's truly) is not totally out to lunch, yet!! Any thoughts as to backing up the start of the incline?
If you come off the slip switch with an immediate right hand switch instead of the left hand you will eliminate the "S" curve and extend the dual tracks.
@Tom Tee posted:It's just a lot of words. I would be glad to stop by and cut in the 1/2" step for you. Should take less than an hour. Nothing in my previous post will affect the rate of the grade percentage.
If you let me loose there I might just back up the start of the vertical curve transition to the slip switch and further reduce the grade percentage
.
Well, it was a lot of words! With that switch removed, I could start the grade earlier, that's not a bad plan.
@Tom Tee posted:So, the old man (your's truly) is not totally out to lunch, yet!! Any thoughts as to backing up the start of the incline?
If you come off the slip switch with an immediate right hand switch instead of the left hand you will eliminate the "S" curve and extend the dual tracks.
I fooled around with that, but the angle the switch comes off still gives me an S-curve as I have to avoid the edge of the table anyway. My table representation is not "quite" real, I may have to fine tune it.
That sounds slick, Tom!! You will have all of us tearing out our roadbed and starting from scratch before John has his layout up and running!! 
John, How about a wide radius RH Ross curved switch butted up against the slip switch?
You just need to see how many degrees of curvature their widest curved switch has compared to how many degrees of curvature is needed coming off the slip switch then determine how many degrees of curvature you can remove from the curved switch if needed. Ross switches lend themselves readily to serious surgery
Mark, that is just my way of developing job security.
@Tom Tee posted:John, How about a wide radius RH Ross curved switch butted up against the slip switch?
You just need to see how many degrees of curvature their widest curved switch has compared to how many degrees of curvature is needed coming off the slip switch then determine how many degrees of curvature you can remove from the curved switch if needed. Ross switches lend themselves readily to serious surgery
Mark, that is just my way of developing job security.
Excellent point, Tom!
In staring at the angles depicted above I was nudged into another direction. As one who builds primarily with standard sized turnouts sometimes I come across a situation where a custom turnout can ease the track alignment.
Working off the angles shown above lead me to consider the idea of a shallow wye or a custom turnout. I have been using custom turnouts on an infrequent basis for many years. Examples follow:
This juncture of the track centerline approaching a TT proved awkward with both a numbered switch and a normal curved turnout. So, in three rail parlance, a 0180"/0264" made the flow nice and smooth.
So also in another situation, when a busy module was added to an existing RR nothing off the shelf seemed to work. So an usual critter from a custom fabricator made it work.
I have seen examples of Hikel layout Service doing similar work in 3 rail using Ross frogs. Just a thought to tuck in your file.
@Tom Tee posted:John, How about a wide radius RH Ross curved switch butted up against the slip switch?
You just need to see how many degrees of curvature their widest curved switch has compared to how many degrees of curvature is needed coming off the slip switch then determine how many degrees of curvature you can remove from the curved switch if needed. Ross switches lend themselves readily to serious surgery
Mark, that is just my way of developing job security.
The switch is the #100 11 degree switch. I swapped the #101 shown previously for the #100, it looks like a better fit. As for changing the angle of the Ross switch, I don't think I want to try that, I don't see any easy way to accomplish that. I do see that I could easily destroy a perfectly good new switch in the attempt.
I really like the refreshed configuration. Nice
I think that switch works better. I was just trying to save a hundred bucks and use one I already had! 
You also enough available length to use one of those long #6 switches.
I thought about that tom, but they're all left hand switches. If I had a right hand one it would have worked out well.
John, That last diagram looks pretty good!
Chris
LVHR
Probably as good as it's going to get Chris, I think I may extend my ramp a little now that I got rid of the switch on the curve. I want that grade to be as gradual as possible. Right now it computes to 2.4%, but the program is not allowing for the easements at the ends, so I think it's going to be at least 2.5%-2.6% when the smoke settles.
Cutting more wood for the elevated sections. Working on the missing sections, too bad I don't have 10x10 plywood, it would make this easier.
Coming along nicely John. Looks great!!!!
All the major pieces of wood are cut and fitted, still need some cleanup on the edges, but I'm hearing the trains coming 'round the bend!
John forgive me if you've already answered this. I know the foam blocks are just for test fit purposes, what are you going to use for the final support of the elevated sections?
We've been discussing that. My initial idea was some faux concrete supports, but that may change. I tried to leave plenty of "meat" on the edges so any reasonable solution would work I will probably also trim the splice blocks that join the sections back from the edge to allow a support right at that location. All of this has to come off once it's all cut and fitted to lay the table level track, so now it's only temporarily screwed together.
It's really starting to look like a layout....not a dream.
Keep it up and you will be running trains by Christmas John.
Bob
I better have them running by then, my wife is giving me grief about trains for Christmas! I hope that the first run will be comfortably before then, but a pacing item may be the Ross switches I need to finish.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:All the major pieces of wood are cut and fitted, still need some cleanup on the edges, but I'm hearing the trains coming 'round the bend!
John,
How did you get the radius cuts to well looks really clean?
Joe Gozzo
You make cardboard templates first and then trace them. I've smoothed the edges with a belt sander, and I still have some work to do there. When I disassemble it for the table level track installation, I'll do a bit more work on it. It's easy to make them look smooth in a picture, they're not that perfect.
A quick "flight" over the first loop of track actually in place. Ignore the loud scraping noise, that's me moving the table so I could walk by.
Progress John, good progress!
I'm doing a little "fine tuning" at my main junction spot on the lift-bridge, I have two tracks a little too close for comfort.
Congrats on "first track laid". Has "first blood been spilt" yet or are you an injury free railroad? 😄
-Greg
First blood was spilled before the first rail was down!
Congratulations John.
Who is that indeed. Nice little video John. Looks great. Keep up the great work.
It was a spur of the moment video, we finished up and I just whipped the phone out. I was checking an my plan has 310 feet of track already and I haven't added my 8-track yard! It sure adds up in a hurry! With the removal of the second level shelf I was able to sneak a couple of yard tracks in the back that will be useful.
Looking great. Can't wait for more updates.
John will you consider using a drone for your next video please
John I noticed a black line on the table outside of the track radius. Is that the location of another track, approximate clearance required for scenery and structures, a future cut?
@trainbob posted:John will you consider using a drone for your next video please
Will you consider sending me a suitable drone?
@coach joe posted:John I noticed a black line on the table outside of the track radius. Is that the location of another track, approximate clearance required for scenery and structures, a future cut?
That's the overhang of the upper deck, we just put the line to know where it is and to leave space for the supports. After cutting and fitting all the upper deck, I removed it to allow for finishing the lower level track.
That is looking good, John.
It would be really nice if it were looking like trains running, but at least we're heading in the right direction.
JOHN: When you post video and similar "news," please edit the thread title to say "Update (insert date) ...." or something equivalent to alert folks that you've posted new info.
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