just got the 2-6-6-6 and no inst manuel it say you have to go on line and down load it. so a quick question, I can not address it, do I have to wait for awhile for the cap to charge to be able to address it. boy mth is getting cheap with no instruction manuel.
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Can't hurt. Some engines can be difficult to add. Try a separate test track to get it into the remote. G
I disagree, i was a little disappointed that MTH stopped providing manuals until I realized how often I actually opened them, ummmm never. So from a business standpoint it is much smarter to provide a quick start guide and make the manual available. This time you need the manual but how often will you need after, or on the next loco?
"do I have to wait for awhile for the cap to charge to be able to address it"
It only takes a few seconds.
Are not most of those manuals very generic, with just the name of the loco changed?
just got the 2-6-6-6 and no inst manuel it say you have to go on line and down load it. so a quick question, I can not address it, do I have to wait for awhile for the cap to charge to be able to address it. boy mth is getting cheap with no instruction manuel.
We have had some MTH engines that take 15 minutes to load while others come up within seconds, all done on the same section of track.
I've found those abbreviated manuals to be just about useless...so generic that you can't even learn much about the engine it came packaged with. They might just as well slip a sticky in the box stating "If you want to learn anything about how to use or care for this engine, go online to something-or-other-dot-com and wade through the menus."
Perhaps it's just me, but when I pay a good amount of money for a locomotive, I kind of expect it to come with a comprehensive owner's manual like my new refrigerator, range, dishwasher, microwave oven, flat screen TV, and Keurig Coffee Maker did.
If you are trying to add an engine to the remote for the first time, this is just an something I have noticed. Keep memory location 1 open in your remote to add new engines. After the engine has been added, change the ID to anything but 1.
This doesn't make sense to me but it works. Also, as others have posted, make sure you give the caps time to charge.
Dave
If you are trying to add an engine to the remote for the first time, this is just an something I have noticed. Keep memory location 1 open in your remote to add new engines. After the engine has been added, change the ID to anything but 1.
This doesn't make sense to me but it works. Also, as others have posted, make sure you give the caps time to charge.
Dave
That is a great tip. It has helped me with stubborn engines that wouldn't add easily. It works around the consist in the address problem too. I think Barry gave me the idea last year?
Dave is absolutely correct. Keep # 1 open. Also, if you have multiple remotes, always use the same one to first load engines, and then clone the others. Keep old clone data by date, in case something gets fouled up; then you can restore to a prior state.
I should add...
Greg had posted a while back another helpful hint that I always have used since.
When I get a used engine from someone, I put it on my test track hooked up to my computer. I then use the loader to see the address stored in memory.
When I go to add the engine, I first remove anything in that address so it's open. It makes adding engines much quicker. It helps me understand what the conditions are, and the remote is trying to achieve.
Joe, just sittinh here without my Loader open, I can't recall where the current issue Consumer Loader shows loco address? To what version Loader are you referring?
I cleared out the #1 memory on the handheld, turned off power, put loco (2=6=6=6) on track, turned on power, waited 5 minutes for caps to charge and then tried to get handheld to find loco and no go, it just sits there like a dead chicken.
Any other locos on powered tracks?
I cleared out the #1 memory on the handheld, turned off power, put loco (2=6=6=6) on track, turned on power, waited 5 minutes for caps to charge and then tried to get handheld to find loco and no go, it just sits there like a dead chicken.
A few things...
- You don't have to wait but a second or two in DCS mode before adding the engine. The caps only have to charge b before use when in conventional mode
- It makes no difference whether or not DCS ID# 1 is available or not when adding an engine
- You don't say if it's a RK or a Premier model. The Premier models have 2-rail/3-rail and DCS/DCC switches. Make certain both are in the correct positions
- If it does't add and the message is "No Engine to Add", tether the remote and try again. It could be a loose transceiver board in the TIU, remote or both.
Barry, my other dcs engines work fine on the track when I call them up, and no there is not any other engines on the program track.
One more time...
- You don't say if it's a RK or a Premier model. The Premier models have 2-rail/3-rail and DCS/DCC switches. Make certain both are in the correct positions
- If it does't add and the message is "No Engine to Add", tether the remote and try again. It could be a loose transceiver board in the TIU, remote or both.
Joe, just sittinh here without my Loader open, I can't recall where the current issue Consumer Loader shows loco address? To what version Loader are you referring?
When you ask the loader to get info from the engine, it will show the address. I find it easier most times to move an engine or consist out of that address so the system will add the new one faster.
Ooops. Dealer loader only.
It is the just released premier engine and switches are in 3 rail and dcs position
It is the just released premier engine and switches are in 3 rail and dcs position
Getting information from you is like pulling teeth. What is the engine's MTH model number?
engine number is 20-3504-1
Engineer Joe, thanks for restoring my faith in my memory.
Make sure the wireless drawbar is completely snapped in place on the tender/
where is 2 - 3 rail switch. I have looked all over the tender, top and bottom and no where is there a switch for 2 3 rail unless it is hidden under a dome etc like lionel does. No manuel with engine really sucks. No more proto 3 engine for me. proto 2 was and is just fine.
where is 2 - 3 rail switch
Really? You just said "switches are in 3 rail and dcs position".
Also, did you make sure the wireless drawbar is completely snapped in place on the tender?
Make sure the wireless drawbar is completely snapped in place on the tender
It may not be so easy to ascertain if it is snapped correctly, as Barry walked me through on the telephone.