HELP NEEDED with my Fastrack...ready to give up!

I have encountered continuity problems with Fastrack.

Actually, there is a video somewhere showing how to bend the center pins to make more solid contact.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH27b0hmkdI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJK79iRlCZ8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfI7968aPhg

It sounds more like a transformer issue. My old cw-80 blew a fuse a few years ago, I ground an old screwdriver down to a triangle head to take it apart and i just took out the fuse. 

Fastrack shouldn't have any effect on your accessories unless there is a short that tripped a breaker in the transformer. Can you check for voltage at the transformer with a meter both hooked and unhooked from the track?

ES44AC,

   I run FT and have no problems with it.  Lets start this examination from the beginning, exactly how is your layout set up.  

What Transformer and wire are you using to operate your FT layout?  Are you running Legacy and DCS or only conventional?  

Have you screwed down your layout to assure permanent track contact and connections?

Are you running Post War Conventional/Tin Plate or a mixture of everything.

When set up properly with a good Transformer old ZW, Z4K, KW or ZW-L your trains should run like class on FasTrack.  

Give us some more info about how you are set up, this is not rocket science, however the layout has to be set up correctly.

PCRR/Dave

Howdy ES44C,

I gotta go with PCRR/Dave on this one.  My new layout (currently under construction) has 200+ linear feet of Fastrack with 11 Command Control Turnouts and ZERO power distribution issues.   I am using "Power Drops" approximately 10 feet apart.  I made sure all connections between each section of track was clean and free of any contamination (I used a toothbrush size stainless steel brush for this).  Check and make sure all track pins are present and accounted for.  I had a couple of sections of track where the center rail pin was broken off which will cause continuity issues between sections.  Make sure that all of the contact surfaces of the rails are CLEAN (basic but often overlooked).   This may be accomplished using either a "Scotch-Brite" Pad or a sanding sponge (I like the 180 grit variety).

Further, NONE of my accessories are connected to "Track Power".   This is just a personal policy of mine to simplify the wiring in the event there is a problem in the future and will make troubleshooting easier.  Also, get yourself a cheap Multi-Meter (analog is OK, digital is better).   This will be helpful for checking continuity and voltage readings.   Lastly, make sure that ALL connections are tight (also basic but often overlooked as well).   Hope this is helpful and keep us posted as to your progress.

Chief Bob (Retired)     

   Harbor Freight has a deal of some kind with a free meter attached. A decent enough meter for the price when there is a price attached too.

 A mini bulb to test with will at least confirm you have power at the transformer. (disconnect from track to test)

Keith, You didn't bypass the fuse did you? I would highly suggest you replace it or add a breaker in its place. ESPECIALLY IF IT BURNED ONCE. 

Re. Power loss on one section when a locomotive crosses it.

Well, I'm no rocket surgeon, maybe this will help.

I use a lot of Fastrack and I experienced your problem (loss of continuity in one section when a loco goes over it) with a heavy Santa Fe FEF, but not with other lighter locos or cars. The problem was a connecting pin that lost contact when the track flexed as the loco passed over it, but was ok when a lighter loco or caboose passed over it. I don't screw my FT down because I have to move it every two or three years (Ok, ok. I'm just lazy).  But I also imagine that it is possible to have a short at the wire-to-track connections if there are any exposed wires that can touch each other while the track is flexing. In such a case when you take the weight off the track the short goes away.

Pine Creek and Pufferbelly have good suggestions above. I'm not an electramagician but have figured out how to use a continuity light and multimeter, somewhat. And if you do have a CW80 transformer, you can saw an opening in the side and solder in a cheap automotive in-line fuse holder. It  won't look pretty but it works, and any subsequent blown fuses are inexpensive and easy to replace. Some engineer is probably cringing and screaming "There's a reason they made it the way they  did, you dummy!" In that case, I suggest you ignore my post.

Plug on. You can do this! And enjoy the season.

PS. If you will be using a lot of Fastrack get a pair of mechanic gloves. My old arthritic fingers work much better handling that plastic roadbed with them on and you won't be as likely to use too much force putting them together, or separating them.

I'm making an assumption that you had this Christmas display up and running OK last year?....for a few last years?

So, one of the bugaboos that our (LHS) customers run into with the seasonal layout thing is those special sections...like the ones with gaps in a rail, the insulated sections that do not tie the two outer rails together, etc..  Unfortunately, unless you are aware of them, or have identified them in some more obvious way, they can appear to be just another 5" or 10" piece of track.....lurking in the layout to cause electrical mayhem!!

So, if you had/added Fastrack accessories....crossing flashers w/ or w/o gates...or added a Fastrack Accessory Activation package....for signal(s), gateman, etc....BOTH of which have those meddlesome/necessary 5" gap sections of track in which the gapped rails MUST be aligned for operation, but not continuity, and the gapped rails, if aligned properly MUST have an accessory or track piece(s) between that isolate the outer rails.....(is any of this coming back to you?......making sense??)....in order for the accessory(S) to work properly...........................................................you may have this sort of issue.

OTOH, it's indeed possible that the CW80 has issues.  IMHO they were not as robust as ye olde 1033's of yore.

Keep the faith, bro.  The forumites are here to help you!

KD

We really need more information as others have stated above.  If the fastrack had a bad connection it will not kill power to your accessories which are not connected to the track.

You said " I removed the engine and placed it back on the track and then everything died. "  That sounds like a short in the engine which tripped the breaker in the transformer.  I bet, after a few minutes the breaker reset and you had power again.  You also stated that the caboose remains lit, but the engine dies on the same section of track.  What transformer are you using?

Since you have a lighted caboose, run it by hand over the layout and see if it remains lit over the layout.  You can also check the voltage using a meter on each section of track.

I would test the engine on the workbench, to see if its working OK.

Its also possible, you have a single bad piece of fastrack which has a short and is causing the problems.  But lets start one thing at a time.  Test the engine off the layout and see if it runs ok.

Joe

Check out this post from our favorite Gi-raffe wrangler.

https://ogrforum.com/...ne-up-that-fasttrack

Looks like everything else has been said already.

I don't know if this will help, but I had problems last year with my temporary Fast Track Christmas tree layout with engine not running on track yet caboose was lit. The track was laid, so I got my Contact Electrical Cleaner can out and sprayed all the connection areas of the tracks. Put engine on track and ran without a problem.

Had same problem yesterday as we set up the Christmas Tree trackage, yup, sprayed contact cleaner on all Fast Track areas were they connected. Ran without a problem. Must be a little corrosion building up on the connectors. Hope it helps.

Hi everyone, thanks for your input. I'm running conventional with a mixture of everything from MTH PS3 to postwar Lionel all powered by an MTH Z-1000. I've had Fastrack for a few years now and have had minor issues with power dropping out. The engine in question, an MTH Premier ES44 operates fine on the other tracks on the layout, so it is not the engine. The track connections all look good and the wires are still in place. Since the track died as soon as I placed the engine on the track I am led to believe it is not anything with the wiring. I do have a voltage meter, and as expected it comes up at 0 on all spots of the track. I'm stumped! I'm going to try giving the track a good cleaning, as much of it hasn't been used since last year Christmas display. Also, the Z-1000 breaker never tripped, so it's not recognizing the issue as a short. 

Adriatic posted:

Keith, You didn't bypass the fuse did you? I would highly suggest you replace it or add a breaker in its place. ESPECIALLY IF IT BURNED ONCE. 

No, I did what Padreyak did and ran the wires outside the casing and put in a fuse holder. It's already burned a second time, if it does it again I'm putting in a breaker. 

ES44AC posted:

I've been setting up  my Christmas display and have been having nothing but trouble with my Lionel Fastrack. Initially the engines were dying out like they were getting no power at once section but it was later revealed I was still getting power through a lighted caboose. Then it worked, once, until it died out again. I removed the engine and placed it back on the track and then everything died. I've now lost all voltage, nothing on the track and nearby accessories powered to the same transformer aren't working. Upon closer inspection all wires are still in place. I'm really annoyed with this stupid track. I guess that's foreign manufacturing. Help please!! 

if all power was lost to me that indicates a short and the breaker tripped then reset itself? and ready to rock n roll again. if you encounter this lost all power again immediately use multi meter and see if power is at output of the z-1000 also where it connects to track terminal section at least that will eliminate the power source from being the issue and or a breaker issue and the terminal track connection as well. 

I would  try the lighted caboose and see if any track sections are not powered as suggested by others. also I would try one of the other engines to test after that if all checks out then retry the ES44AC.

not sure how large your setup is but if possible to store it I would get it all connected wired up and working correctly and screw it down I believe this track was not really intended to be setup and taken apart like the old lionel tracks of yesteryear.

if after all this still results in a non working and frustrating event do the next best thing go get some new 3 rail 0-27 or 0-31 or larger curved track and some straight sections of track that has real steel pins and setup a mere oval and just enjoy the Christmas trains running.

If there are zero volts on the track, the power isn't on the track, to state the obvious.  If the transformer works fine on other loops, then it's not the transformer.  Check the output at the transformer terminals, not the track to confirm this.  Next up is to replace the wires between the transformer and the terminal track.  It could be something as simple as a broken (perhaps intermittent and/or not visible because of the insulation). or a disconnected wire from the transformer to the terminal section.

It sounds like the one engine is a lot heavier than the others, which is depressing the track causing continuity between sections to be lost.  I don't know what you have under the track, but if it is soft, like on the carpet or a thicker felt like tree blanket, this would seem a possibility, if not likely.  You can always wire up more power drops to the track.  And of course, clean the track AND the wheels and pickup rollers of the offending engine. 

"Operates fine elsewhere" and "breaker never trips"; these statements mean the Z and loco are ok and your issue IS track based. It almost has to be.

Flip the meter to ohm (the upside down U symbol with feet) and put leads in the com. and ohm jacks. When you touch the leads together, you should read 0. or real close too it (some meters will never actually read 0 but are 'close enough'.

Now , no power hooked up, slightly pull track apart about an inch. Read from pin to hole and you should get a low reading or 0.  Problem rail(s)will read higher than a good ones , or "bounce" as the test current pulses/ surges from trying to literally jump across a poor connection. (some digital meters will just "hunt" endlessly with no reading and some have peak/hold options...etc etc) 

    Now you know which rail has issues, so now move around the layout measuring just that rail at arms length 3-4 pieces at a time of it, till you find the bad area. Then single it out. 

AND OR disconnect track near the power, run the engine railed on the power side till it stops. There is your gremlin, look hard.

  Shine all connection tabs, etc. with a wire brush or contact cleaner, etc. They are likely clean looking, but that doesn't mean a whole lot with plated metal. It seems the oxidation is invisible or something on modern plated metal connections. (outside the train world too). Whatever has changed in the plating process doesn't seem like an improvent to me really.

Check pin fit too, look for possible shorts in underside wire, etc.etc

Assuming that has all been done over and over, and not in haste.... Move the tracks power connection a few feet. Does the problem move? Yes- Add a second power connection and it should "balance". No- replace that piece of track or run wire to jump it into the circuit.

....Your not running a bunch of lighted passenger cars too when you have issues are you?

ES44AC posted:

Hi everyone, thanks for your input. I'm running conventional with a mixture of everything from MTH PS3 to postwar Lionel all powered by an MTH Z-1000. I've had Fastrack for a few years now and have had minor issues with power dropping out. The engine in question, an MTH Premier ES44 operates fine on the other tracks on the layout, so it is not the engine. The track connections all look good and the wires are still in place. Since the track died as soon as I placed the engine on the track I am led to believe it is not anything with the wiring. I do have a voltage meter, and as expected it comes up at 0 on all spots of the track. I'm stumped! I'm going to try giving the track a good cleaning, as much of it hasn't been used since last year Christmas display. Also, the Z-1000 breaker never tripped, so it's not recognizing the issue as a short. 

Are you sure that the breaker didn't trip?

The Z-1000 must be unplugged to reset the breaker rocker. It could be that simple.

I would disconnect the transformer and begin some continuity tests on the track and accessories. Look for a short.

I have had some customers bring in their fast track switches stating they did not work. After thorough investigation and troubleshooting I found that the tabs holding the rails to the roadbed are bent over  over metal strips to give continuity between both outside rails. As the track aged the metal got a bit corroded or it bent just enough for the track to lose continuity between the outside rails. Its very tough to find because actually testing with a meter you push down on the little tabs actually bringing continuity back to the metal. When I get home I will take some photos showing the tabs I speak of. The solution was to solder the tabs down making the connection permanent.

  I'm always afraid to say the word "solder" with plastic roadbed. I know I can manage it, but from reading, I'm not so sure how others would fare at times. Plus I've only done it for ho, never FT yet; different plastic. Sometimes we take experience for granted too.

I've backed plastic with ice, it helps. (N shell & lights, etc)

I've soldered to the Fastrack tabs a bunch, I've never had an issue melting roadbed.  Obviously, if you keep the heat on too long, it'll happen, so you have to use a little judgment.

ES44AC posted:

Hi everyone, thanks for your input. I'm running conventional with a mixture of everything from MTH PS3 to postwar Lionel all powered by an MTH Z-1000. I've had Fastrack for a few years now and have had minor issues with power dropping out. The engine in question, an MTH Premier ES44 operates fine on the other tracks on the layout, so it is not the engine. The track connections all look good and the wires are still in place. Since the track died as soon as I placed the engine on the track I am led to believe it is not anything with the wiring. I do have a voltage meter, and as expected it comes up at 0 on all spots of the track. I'm stumped! I'm going to try giving the track a good cleaning, as much of it hasn't been used since last year Christmas display. Also, the Z-1000 breaker never tripped, so it's not recognizing the issue as a short. 

I have seen the joints of these types of track just wear out from excessive use of being taken apart repeatedly (or even stepped on). It was with Real Traxx But I'd guess from reading other's posts that it still applies to Fast Track. Some post of squeezing the ends to restore conductivity. If the track is going back down, you could solder on wires, and join with wire nuts, for better reliable conductivity?

 I would not rely on the breaker of the MTH pack to protect much. I would still install an inline fuse for protection. Replacing a fuse does get tiresome but that's much easier and cheaper than wrecking equipment. I suspect that there was no reason for the breaker to trip in this instance. Like you stated, it's not a short, it's lack of conductivity.

You have to start from the spot you do have voltage and work from there

Certainly Fastrack, along with every other kind of tack, has its share of connectivity issues, but if an entire Fastrack layout is reading 0 at every point on the layout , then the transformer and/or the wiring or connection to the track needs to be checked first and eliminated as a possible cause.

As Landsteiner pointed out, the OP needs to check the voltage at the transformer output terminals to make sure first that power is coming out of the transformer (regardless of whether we think the breaker tripped or not) and, if so, then at the transformer connection to the track to make sure that power is getting from the transformer to the track and there's no bad wires.  If those check out, then the voltage on the connection piece of track should be checked at the rails to see if power is coming through the connection to that piece of track - check between center rail and either outside rail.

I use these crimp connectors to attach the power tabs between adjacent pieces of FasTrack when continuity is a problem. They're not expensive. The wires can be hidden under the roadbed and there are cutouts already available between track pieces.

Our club constructed a new layout this year with FT and it's giving us fits: voltage drops, problems with switches, etc. Screwed down to Homasote, buss wiring (a little hard to trace). Would soldering all the connections at the modular breaks help? Or ???

Wally

Cho Cho Wally posted:

Our club constructed a new layout this year with FT and it's giving us fits: voltage drops, problems with switches, etc. Screwed down to Homasote, buss wiring (a little hard to trace). Would soldering all the connections at the modular breaks help? Or ???

Wally

having a pair of hot/common track feeds for each module or section eliminates any existing or perceived problem with the module joints. In fact, the rails don't really need to be connected at the joints. Only needed to avoid physical gaps or bumps and prevent mechanical wear of engines and cars.

If you want to email me offline, I would review your layouts' wiring scheme for you. It's not really a track problem. Some of the FasTrack switches can be finicky due to manufacturing anomalies, but there is generally a very high reliability factor with the FasTrack switches.

Having built enough layouts with all track types and having multiple individuals assisting with assembly, I have found that many over tighten the track screws on premolded roadbed tracks. This causes distortion and leads to other issues. You need a track foreman for the club.

I leave one joint apart. Then I check all 3 rails at every track junction with a ohm meter and look for resistance. It should read 0 ohms or a dead short. Any resistance will cause a voltage drop across that joint. Once all the joints check out, I put the last joint together.

ES44,

   If you have an old ZW or KW try using it to power your FasTrack, it almost sound like you have a bad Z1000, there were a few of them floating around.  

PCRR/Dave

FasTrack is great stuff, when set up properly!   

I have a few hundred feet of fastrack, with power to the center rail every 10-15 ft. My fastrack is not screwed down, it sits on carpet underpad.

local power issues have been fixed by bending the track pins slightly to increase friction and thus better electrical contact. (I bend the all  pins to ensure good contact). The other solution was to add wood shims under parts of the layout where the track was bending, resulting in a loss of track power. Between these two solutions, I was able to resolve all my track power and signal strength problems.

A recent rather silly problem for me -- on a rather expansive fastrack layout that comes and goes, I decided to hold it all together with small paper binder clips.  I dutifully stuck them on between just about every track section.   And then beyond the seeming standard fastrack connectivity issues I kept getting these shorts -- the train would run, then not -- jiggle here, crimp the ends there -- then it would be ok for a bit, then suddenly not. 

It was maddeningly rather random ... 

Then I realized I'd inadvertently put clips in a couple of places across power and ground.  It really just came down to the way they clips were placed, many with me just putting them in without really looking since I'd put the track down first, and the length or shape of the handles on some clips which allowed it to occur.

Anyway... probably nothing to do with your problem but its the kind of issue that can cause one to very nearly throw it all in the trash... or at least feel like it.

Matt Makens posted:

I have had some customers bring in their fast track switches stating they did not work. After thorough investigation and troubleshooting I found that the tabs holding the rails to the roadbed are bent over  over metal strips to give continuity between both outside rails. As the track aged the metal got a bit corroded or it bent just enough for the track to lose continuity between the outside rails. Its very tough to find because actually testing with a meter you push down on the little tabs actually bringing continuity back to the metal. When I get home I will take some photos showing the tabs I speak of. The solution was to solder the tabs down making the connection permanent.

I was having a problem with an area on my track that had back to back switches where the train would go through at times and die at others. I cleaned the track, cleaned the engine wheels, bent the pins, leveled the track, screwed the track down to the table, prayed over it...no fix. I then read your note Matt and took apart the switch I thought was the problem. Fussed with the tabs,  looked for a stray wire touching something, but still didn't fix the problem. I then read someone else's post about testing with ohm meter and sure enough I had a greater than 0 reading on the switch adjacent to the one I thought was the problem. Took that apart, and hooked it up to test track and heard a buzzing sound coming from one of the tabs holding the rails to the track. I pushed down to make the connection more secure, but that didn't help. Then I went to loosen the tab and just lifting it a little, track works. No problems since.

I'm sure there probably is a better way to fix it, but I was prepared to go buy another switch and reading the forum saved me the $90. That and the nearest hobby shop is about 45 minutes away and who knows if they'd have had an O-60 switch to begin with. 

Probably have about 150 feet of Fastrack on our layout and by and large haven't had many problems. Most of it has been the common things mentioned in the thread - cleaning, broken pin, track that moves where the table isn't level, etc. When I first set up I only had 1 connection to the track with multiple loops using a Z-1000 and it worked. Once I was sure of the final design, I isolated the loops and added multiple drops to each loop, yard, etc. and hooked it up to Z-4000. Runs great.

Did all of this based on things I've read on the forum - fantastic place to find the answers. Nice of folks like Matt and others to be so helpful with their own knowledge. Thank you all!

I was having problems with my Fastrack last Monday during a Christmas party. There was this one section where the engine kept stuttering. I cleaned it to no avail. Not wanting to rip up the track with company there, I just soldered all the rail joints together with copper wire on the sections I was having trouble on. If you're careful the roadbed won't melt whatsoever. I'm not sure if anyone addressed this yet, but that's what I did.