Running LGB DCC with NCE ProCab

What are the advantages of the NCE ProCab over the existing proprietary LGB and PIKO digital control systems?

Tom Q Fan posted:

LGB members, I saw a video where they were running the newer LGB digital trains with a NCE ProCab.

Has anyone here tried this? If so how did it work?  Any advice?

Thank You

Tom

It works, though not quite as well as with the Marklin/LGB Central Station using mfx. I have the LGB work train and the locomotive got totally confused when I pressed F7 on my NCE ProCab to turn smoke on/off. Otherwise, it was fine. I have a 10-amp NCE system I use for LGB/G scale indoors, but, except for the work train, the locomotives have TCS or ESU decoders. Those all work as expected. I have one LGB Forney with a Massoth decoder and the bell and horn button mappings are reversed on the NCE ProCab. It would work nicely with the Central Station where you just press an icon button rather than a numbered function button.

Tinplate Art posted:

What are the advantages of the NCE ProCab over the existing proprietary LGB and PIKO digital control systems?

Well, if you already had an NCE system, you wouldn't have to buy a new Marklin/LGB/PIKO setup. Save some bucks. The systems have much different user interfaces: NCE has handheld/walkaround  cabs, the Marklin system uses a centralized computer to control not only locomotives, but also turnouts and accessories. It can be set up to automate practically everything. There is a "Mobile Station" but it's just a smaller computer with a long tether. Marklin is a complete ecosystem whereas with NCE, you have to add on different components for more extensive layout control. Most DCC systems are similar, though Digitrax has more signaling and transponding features "out of the box."

All, thank you for your thoughtful input. Right now I have all analog, old, original LGB. I did get the Allegra RhB and discovered that it is the DCC. I was hoping to run it and get access to the dcc without spending the big $$ for the Marklin.  

Thank you

Tom

You should be able to run the Allegra on analog DC if it has a newer decoder. No need to buy a DCC system. Then you'd only be able to run ony one of your older locomotives at a time. The modern decoder should recognize DC automatically. See this:

https://www.lgb.com/fileadmin/...tzanleitung_mSD3.pdf

Tried several Marklin/LGB locos with the PIKO digital control system with unsatisfactory, mixed results! 😐 Returned ALL to my understanding dealer. Currently, am running ONLY analog original LGB with a 3 amp, 0-30 volt laboratory grade switching mode DC supply with a 5 amp PIKO throttle indoors. Nice flatline DC runs everything s-m-o-o-t-h-e! ☺

At 77, I am very skilled with my Android phone, Verizon tablet and Uniden digital touch screen radio scanner. I am NOT anti-tech but from many accounts the various proprietary digital systems are NOT universally compatible with the DCC standard, hence the erratic behavior! I am too old to deal with those frustrations and my original LGB runs fine with my analog power! ☺

TRRENTSCHLER and TINPLATE ART,  many thanks for your insights and advice. As I mentioned I run analog (DC) for my LGB. I have run the Allegra fine, analog. When I saw the YouTube video post I thought that I might try that with the Allegra and get some of the other neat functions. I had planned to get the NCE Pro to use for small switching layout in 2 rail O.  So I thought that it might do double duty especially if I run Allegra on isolated track section.

Tom

I know this is a little late, but I came across this posting and I'm mostly a G scale guy and I use an NCE Procab ( with boosters ) and have LGB MTS engines, and many other DCC engines. This is a GREAT system that won't break the bank, but is very powerful and expandable. I only paid about $130 for my Procab about 11 years ago, and I like the system as you can use any booster with it. I currently use a 5 Amp Bachmann booster, and also have 2 MRC 8 Amp boosters. In addition I bought a USB interface for on ly$40 and it attaches to my laptop where I run free full featured NMRA DCC software, and I can use any tablet or phone as throttles.  I mention my entire system as it is very inexpensive but very powerful. I do use it with 4 LGB engines. I have 2 Mikados, they run well with my system. The downfall of LGB MTS is it's not 100% compatible with other DCC systems. Some of the functions use different numbers, but they all work. The speed steps are strange, I did not change mine to 14 step as I've heard older MTS only uses 14ateps. I noticed that going up 2 steps (even only) works fine, and speed curve is smooth and works well. I haven't tried to re program things, but found some info that it's a pain to do with non LGB systems, but possible. I like my system as it's compatible with every DCC decoder I've tried from about 6 different manufacturers. I'd you have any specific questions about my setup, or NCE or LGB, or really any G scale questions then let me know.

All the major US branded DCC systems are totally compatible with DCC.    The standard is the way the signal is put on the rails, but the signal has to be the same for EVERY Control Variable (CV) in the standard or the mfg does not get a conformance rating from the NMRA       Many of the decoder mfg have added CVs to their decoders, particulary for sound.    These are not covered by standards so far and the mfg use them as they please.    However, in my experience these are generally very detailed accessory functions that have no affect on control or basic sound. 

As for horn and bell using icons, not function buttons - not so in DCC.    ALL such things on a DCC decoder are controlled by function buttons, and ALL are programmable to other buttons if the user wishes.    Some systems such as Digitrax put both an icon and the function number on their master throttles.    If you can't reverse the use of the buttons on the LGB decoder, it means the decoder is totally DCC compliant.   This is possible, MRC early on had a lot of partially compliant decoders in their line

T Ansley, many thanks for your information. Based on what you said and that video I saw I will go ahead, this spring, and set up a track and use NCE. I don't mind reprograming functions to get the train announcements and other functions.

Prrjim thank you for your advice on DCC. Being an MTH DCS, O scale, guy I figured other DCC/DCS would work as easily. I suspect they could, given the NMRA standards. It seems that even with the NMRA standards it is still complicated. But less so than Marklin.

Looking forward to spring and running my LGB Allegra.

Thank you all for your help and advice.

Tom

I also want to address accessory and switch controls via DCC.   This is builit-in with DCC systems, at least it is with my NCE system and an MRC Prodigy system which I purchased from another G scale person.  I believe setup is very simple.  Basically I went to a guy's house, ended up purchasing his layout, and he had and MRC Prodigy DCC setup with 2 LENZ LS150 switch controllers (notice its' compatible with ALL DCC systems).  He had them connected to 10 switches, some were actually dual switches, ie crossovers.  Each had an address.  There is an accesory button on the NCE DCC system, you just hit the bottom, put in the switch number and "throw" the switch.  I think it came up on the display with two options.  It worked great!  I bought his system and eventually will install the LENZ switch controllers on a new layout I'm planning.  Also, this worked fine with already existing LGB and Aristo-Craft electric switch machines . Oh the cool thing about this is you can still wire them manually, say to LGB switch control boxes, and use either the DCC controler or the regular AC-powered LGB control boxes! (or the existing Aristo provided switch controllers)  His layout had Aristo-Craft electric switches, I ran trains with him one afternoon, it was a wonderful setup and he ran 7 different DCC trains on an approximately 30 x 10 ft. layout and had full control of everything!  He had "routes" programmed so when he picked a route on his  MRC Prodigy controller, it would turn on power to the siding (not really necessary with DCC, but nice as the trains were turned off when not in use) and would throw the switch(s) via the LENZ switch controller.  Then he'd drive the train on the main line and then turn that route off, so the switch would go back and siding would not be powered.  it was a wonderful setup.  I purchased his entire layout and at some point will setup a similar layout utilizing his LENZ controllers and route setup with my NCE DCC system.  It was very cool going through each train, set the route, pull the train out on the mail line, run it for a while, then put it back and pull out another one.  He also had 2 mainlines so he was doing this simultaneously with 2 trains.  This is the beauty of DCC.   Also, some of these were BIG trains too, he had a 3 truck Shay with about 15 log cars, and two Aristo SD-45 with about 10+ cars each not to mention the 2  other steam trains and a 44 tonner diesel train, and a few smaller trains.  My point is that I think DCC can be a great option for Large scale people and you don't have to break the bank if you're smart.  Also, he also utilized 2 MRC boosters.  So in his setup he had an MRC Prodigy System (with two full-featured throttles), 2 Lenz switch controllers, and 2 MRC Boosters.  He also utilized 2 off the shelf power supplies he bought on Amazon. My point is, you can have a great reliable system with multiple parts from multiple manufacturers that are all NRMA standard compliant.   Also, his DCC decoders in the 8 trains I purchased from him are from several manufacturers including MRC, QSI, Digitrax, and more.  It all worked just fine.  I'm the same way, I purchase what I can get a good deal on as far as decoders go, and I have purchased many engines with a multitude of Decoders, and so far, and as I mentioned that includes LGG MTS (this is where the functions didn't line up, but I just figured out which functions did what) , they all work fine!  One more note, my NCE Procab does have dedicated Horn, Whistle, and Light buttons that are mapped to the typical functions they use so use for beginners is very easy.  I very rarely mess with any of the CVs, and programming new address and other basic settings is menu driven and easy. Also, I needed a firmware upgrade (required and actually a large chip, not just a software update!) about 8 years ago to use my USB interface and it was only about $22 from NCE with shipping!  The instructions were simple and easy.  With all that said, I've been considering getting an ESU command station, that thing looks pretty awesome!   ESU also has a new system that is very "phone" like, inexpensive and comes with 7 Amp capability out-of-the-box.  My understanding is it's compatible with Cell phones via WiFi.  I just discovered this recently.  More options!