SD70ACe with PS2

Sure sounds like the battery. In conventional mode, do the sounds stop or play for several seconds? If not replace the battery. This should help the engine not found message.

Bob,

Perform the test as Chuck says. However, if sounds do not persist for 6-7 seconds after track power is turned off, don't replace the battery. Just charge it until the sounds do play for 6-7 seconds. The engine has a 2.4 volt battery which is, most likely, simply discharged.

Then, delete and re-add the engine.

First, thank you Barry and Chuck, (I was going to say thank you Chuck and Berry but I thought it sounded too much like the famous singer/guitarist).  I tried the test that Chuck suggested using a LIONEL 1033 Post War Transformer and after turning the power to the locomotive off, I was able to give it an 8 Mississippi count before the sound completely shut off.  What say you now?

Bob

After adding engine, do a Track signal strength test and see what that engine is at?  If much less then 10 it may have an issue.

I would add the engine and do a factory reset.  Turn track power off and wait 30 seconds.

Readd engine, and then change address to another unused #.  Run the engine.  Then turn off power.  Try it again and see if it you can address it.   G

Does your SD70 respond OK with the remote included in the set? When you re-add the engine, does it always re-add with the same number? Is it a IR remote, or the newer 1 channel DCS remote?

When I first used the IR remote it worked fine (IIRC).  I no longer use the IR remote because I have DCS installed on my layout and I use this exclusively.  The same engine number is always displayed when the engine id Re-Added.  However, it may be displayed with a different location number, (i.e. location 3 instead of the original location 1), but I can "edit" the engine and assign its original number 1 location and it runs just fine, until I shut off the track power, re-energize the track power and attempt to "start up" the engine with the DCS Remote.  That is when I get the "Check Track", "No Engine Found" display.

Chief Bob (Retired)  

G,

I will try this and report back.  Thank you for the input.

Chief Bob

I was going to say it is probably factory set at #1. But if you still have to re-add the engine after it has been set to #1, and G's idea doesn't work, you may have to send it back to MTH for hardware repair.

Howdy Again G,

Well, I followed your instructions to the letter and still no workie.  However, after waiting 30 or so seconds and adding power to the track, I did hear a "Click" from the engine.  I'm guessing that the engine is being energized but the remote still displays "Check Track", "No Engine On Track".  Your thoughts?  Sorry, I failed to mention that the signal strength display showed "10".

Chief Bob

How many trains in your remote and did you create any lashups/MUs?  Barry maybe able to weigh in more, but I am not sure why an address change won't stick.

The next test would be to enter it in your remote and turn some features off, like headlights and maybe lower the volume.  Do a shutdown. and turn off track power.

Turn power back on and see if you can address the engine.  If not add it, but see if the features you changed stuck.  Head light off and volume down low.  IF not, the board won't transfer data to memory.

I would charge the battery fully and try again, but if still no go, there is a hardware issue with the engine.   G

George,

Barry maybe able to weigh in more, but I am not sure why an address change won't stick.

If the battery isn't the culprit (sounds continue for 6-7 seconds after track power is turned off), the DCS ID# can be edited successfully and the engine runs fine once found by DCS, I haven't a clue what could be wrong.

Thanks Guys,

I've got some errands I need to run this afternoon, so, I'll not be able to continue to solve the mystery until later this evening.  I will keep you gentleman posted on my progress (?).  Again, thank you Berry and George for your efforts.  It is greatly Appreciated!

Chief Bob (Retired)

PS I have found your book to be extremely helpful Barry.  Thanks Again.

G,

Two trains in the remote, (they are both SD70ACe except the one I'm having trouble with is a PS2 and the other is a PS3).  No Lash-Up's or MU's were created.  Also, what is the best way to charge the battery?  External charger or Track Power?

Thanks,

Bob

I would do a factory reset on the remote too.  I am a fan of charging via the external jack.  Not track power.

When you load the engine, is the other on the track too?  I would test this PS-2 by itself with the other deleted from the remote and off the track, until you get it figured out.   G

G,

How do I perform a "Factory Reset" on the remote?  There are no other engines on the track while I am testing this engine.  I took your advice and I have charger ordered and on its way.  I will keep you up to date as things progress.

Thanks Again,

Chief Bob

Howdy Everyone,

Well, here's another fly in the ointment.   I had the track energized with the problem engine on the track.  I accidentally hit the whistle control on the Post War ZW that is providing track power and the engine came to life.  The ZW powers the track through the TIU Fixed Voltage #1 input.  It has a 10 amp quick blow fuse on the positive lead.  The TIU itself is powered using the AUX. Power input via a MTH Z-500 Brick.  It seems to me the problem engine ignored the TIU and started up in Conventional Mode when I accidentally hit the ZW Whistle Control.  Any Thoughts?

Chief Bob (Retired)

You didn't post the model number.  I would check the number in catalogs and see when shipped.  It could be a bad battery that's dying before the shut down has run its course.  Try a battery from another PS2 loco.

The locomotive came in the SD70ACe Diesel R-T-R Deluxe Freight Train Set w/Proto Sound 2.0.  The Item number on the locomotive box is: 30-42051-1E.  The set was delivered in August of 2010.  I don't know when this set was manufactured specifically but given the delivery date, I'm suspect of the battery as well.  The set was NOS, (New Old Stock) Sealed when I took delivery of it earlier this year.  Here's where it gets weird. When I operate the locomotive in conventional mode I can give the sound sequence "shut-down" an 8 Mississippi count before all sounds stop.  I would think this wouldn't be the case if the battery was, in fact, defective.  This is the only PS2 locomotive I have, (Just got back into the hobby about 8 months ago) the other 3 are PS3.  Thanks for trying to help!

Puffer, the battery is at least 6 years old and hasn't been charged.  I'd get a new one before trying anything else, except to check the tether.  Keeping the sounds on for MS8, is not necessarily an indication battery is good.  Suppose your loco shutdown sounds should run for MS9 count???

I just bought 2 locos shipped in 2008, and in both the batteries were shot.  One was even leaking.

I had this happen a few times. Put the Engine on the track for 2 hrs powered at 15V using the Z4000 - did this to make sure the battery was charged, etc. Then I upgraded my remote and TIU to the latest version, then reset the remote - i.e. factory reset, then I added the engine again - it worked. the other engine I sent back to MTH - if I remember correctly they reprogrammed the engine and replaced some items.

GGG - is correct - try his suggestions - I did it prior to his post and it seemed to work - 50 - 50 so far.

K

After re reading this string, I agree change out the battery first, you might have also lost the programing and that would also cause problems. You can buy the battery at any MTH dealer or if your local Radio Schack is still around they might have it. I think I paid $8.00 for the last one I needed.

How do you reset the remote?  I also want to mention that my PS3 engines work without a hitch.  Will resetting the remote have any effect on the engines already installed?

Thanks,

Chief Bob

I removed the shell and popped the battery out. It's the blue one with a production date of 2009-03-14.  Time for the recycle bin!  New one is on the way.

Under the menu settings for control you can scroll and see items for engine, TIU and Remote.  Selecting remote will give you additional options including factory reset.  Yes a remote factory reset will clear memory.

What version of DCS is in the remote?  G

Elsewhere, I have strongly recommended that when one has all the remote settings as they want them, that the remote should be backed up to a computer using the excellent MTH Loader program.  Then resetting a remote, or making all one;s remotes identical, becomes a snap.  If this hasn't been done, I'd try to avoid resetting the remote, for then everything must be reloaded.

Therefore, I recommend waiting for a new  battery, which should be charged before use.

In line with GGG's last question, be sure all remotes and all TIUs are operating the same version of the DCS software, whether the latest or not.  Either 4.2 or 4.3 is optimal.

I don't recall seeing any manufacture dates on the blue battery.  Where was it?

The MFG. date is on the flat side if you are looking at the battery pack with the batteries side by side.  It also says "Made In China".

Both the TIU and Remote are V. 4.20.

Other then the MTH Loader Program, what else will need to accomplish the Remote Back-Up?  I have a spare laptop running Windows 7.

Puffer, On the blue label itself?  Oddly enough, I have a dozen siting on my workbench & not one has a date on it.

To do a remote backup, one needs the telephone handset cord to connect remote and TIU, and a serial cable to connect TIU and computer.  If you TIU is Rev L, you can use a USB cable.  If your computer doesn't have a serial port (most now don't) and you don't have a Rev L, you'll need a USB to serial converter cable.  I use a Gigaware 6-foot USB-A to Serial cable which I got at Radio Shack.  While buying this, also get a very short 1/8" stereo connector cable and you'll have all the equipment needed to keep your TIU & remote upgraded to latest DCS software.

Thanks for this information.  I'll do the new battery charge/install first as suggested and we'll go from there.  I will post any up-dates to the thread.

If you have a copy of the DCS O Gauged Companion 2nd Edition, look at pages 144-146.

If you don't have a copy, you most certainly should!  

This and a whole lot more is all in MTH’s “The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

Berry,

I absolutely DO have a copy and I will check it out as soon as I post this reply.  Did I mention that I have used the book in the past and it has been most helpful!

Thanks,

Bob

Bob,

Thanks for there kind words - they're appreciated!

However, on the cover you will find that my first name is spelled Barry.  

Barry,

Duh, what am I missing?  Your name is spelled BARRY BROSKOWITZ on the cover of my book.

Bob

I think he was referring to the one post above his.

Yep, my bad.  It was me who did the deed.   I need to get out more.

What's a typo among forumites? 

What's a typo among forumites? 

I don't know. What do you think, Roberta?

Watch it, fella.  That was not a typo.  You've made a few real typos also.