Topside creepers and 4 foot reach

@Aegis21 posted:

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the info. These look like they work fantastic. One other dimension of you don't mind, the height of the support at the top end furthest from the wall of the knee itself 

Thanks John

The horizontal top edge is 34" the vertical edge against the wall is 32".  The wall is drilled for four anchors and 2 x 4 studs are bolted on with a polyurethane adhesive sandwich.

Additional details of how I did this, many other good ways to build wall supports, this is mine.

I made a template with a large french curve then traced the template on sheets of 3/4" plywood.  Using a Bosch jig saw for stability and  32 tooth metal blade for a clean cut.   The curved edges are cleaned up with a 1/4" round over router bit.  I do not use drywall screws but rather construction screws.

The studs are set with a 360 degree laser at 36".  and let to dry for 24 hours.  The knee spacing is 32".  I set the first knee perfect with clamps over the adhesive layer and tap it perfect with a non marring hammer, tack it into place with a brad gun, recheck alignment then screw it into place.   Moving four knee positions down (8') I do the same with the fourth knee, then clamp a 3' level on the top of each knee set an 8' level.  Once both knees are perfect I use the level and set the two intermediate knees.  All bubbles are dead center.  My basement floor has a 6" tilt over 70 feet so the height of the bench work depends upon where you are standing.  The differential is a tad over 1" every 11'.

The benchwork is made up of 8' individual modules which are glued together and bolted to one another.  Most all of the benchwork is made of left overs from my former benchwork business and spiced together as needed.  I find wood working the fun part of layout construction.

After all the basic support is completed I drilled all the knees and  ran 3/4" conduit for fascia mounted duplex outlets every 6' - 7'.

This benchwork is somewhat an organic project in that additional right of ways were needed and consequently some of the outlets are a small reach under the fascia.    The layout has essentially doubled in purpose and size since started.  But then again I should expect the unexpected when using a wet thumb for design purposes. 

I added  three rail recently at a higher level to the layout just because........

Any one knee can hold my 230# 2 feet from the wall.

Hi Tom,  Great detail and it shows your passion for fine woodworking. My woodworking skills do not compare, so I really love the information and detail. WOW does not do it justice. 

Thanks a ton for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience! 

John

40 years ago, when I started this layout in 1979, I didn't need any topside creepers.

Now, at 74, I do!  At the time of 34, I didn't think about the future!

There's no way I could clean or PM any track, etc at the upper level without it.  I have to move any storage containers under the layout to access the top and I store it in the laundry room.   Fortunately, all isles are wide enough to move it to any place on the layout.   The first rung is a thin metal bar and, I never wear shoes in the house, so the first rung got some foam on it. 

That top, back track is about 5' high and 4' back!

Since the first picture, above, was taken, several hundred new trees and vegetation has been added. 

@Richie C. posted:

Well, if you're really flexible,  John ..........

 

Been there and done that!!!! Now I use the T.S. Creeper

Ray

@Rayin"S" posted:

Been there and done that!!!! Now I use the T.S. Creeper

Ray

If memory serves me right, that is a picture of Tom Groff of the Choo Choo Barn,  a beloved and respected member of our fraternity, who recently passed away.