Volt meter usage

Set it on the AC voltage scale and touch one lead to the outside rail and one lead to the center rail. By itself,this test will not tell you much about voltage drop unless you put a load on the loop. 

Dale H

Also make sure the wires in your multimeter are in the correct positions to measure AC voltage. You do not want them in the current (amps) position***. This will short out your transformer and blow the fuse in your multimeter.

***Current has the units Amps.

Hi Dale,

thanks for the reply. I had already done what you suggested and there was a live load down the loop. No response from my meter whatsoever.

any other suggestions?

thanks again.

Check the battery in the meter. Also it may have an off on switch,the pic is a bit blurry. To check battery,put it on the ohm scale,marked with the symbol omega. It should read 1 or infinity. Touch the 2 leads together it should read zero.

Dale H

Looking at the Gardner Bender(GB) website, instructions in using this multimeter should be available in pdf format also do a general search on the web for using a multimeter on AC model trains. Check out trainelectronics.com/METER_Workshop/ for meter use,this should be beneficial, the ability to use a multimeter and continuity tester are essential in troubleshooting AC and DC model trains.  

The referenced above website is for DC trains, 3-rail is AC voltage, outside rails are negative(common) inside rail is positive(hot) from the transformer. Same with engines and lite caboose and passenger cars, the center roller is positive(hot), outside wheels are common(negative).

The meter appears to be voltage, both, AC (black) two scales, and DC (white) four scales, smallest would be milli-volts, I think??.  Resistance right side of the selector dial.  I don't see any amperage scales on the meter. There would be a small battery and possibly a fuse. Note that the small black button upper right in the picture would be to Zero the resistance, Ohm scale. IMO.  Correction On/Off. 

Operation, start with the largest scale and move the selector to lower scales if the meter indication fits the next smaller scale.

  If you wish to measure AC amperage I suggest a clamp meter. Relatively safe and easy to use, just clamp it around the wire, it will measure the amps. Excuse the antique, analog/with needle indication, meter, it dates to 1975.  Pictured with a device loop that plugs in for measuring amps of corded devices.

 There are multi-meters that do both, amps and volts.  IMO still best to get one that has the clamp feature. Click on the underlined phrase to link a Sears/Craftsman multi-meter offering.

 Mike CT

A dandy and inexpensive clamp-on is still the Harbor Freight Clamp-On Meter, it's priced at $11.99.

I've used this for several years, it has retained excellent accuracy, and is convenient and priced right.  Several other folks in the club have bought one based on my recommendation and all are still happy with their purchase.

Measuring track circuit amperage.

I've got the meter GRJ mentions above. Has worked great for me.

Mike is stuck in the 60's with his analog meter.

That sucker looks like it's provided long service.

Thank you all for the replys.

i have ordered the Clamp-On Meter which should be here in a few days.

Another issue that seems to be affecting my track voltage is the fact that I have weathered my track by spray painting it with a Krylon paint spray. I immediately cleaned the outside rails but left most on the middle rail as I was told this should not affect voltage. In most parts of the layout it is not a problem but there are several areas where the power stops even though there is power at the end of the line. I have started removing some of the paint from the middle tract which is know exposing a brass top which I don't like. Is there a good light black paint that will cover the middle rail without affecting current?

Any suggestions on this?

thanks again!

Well, you MUST have a clean middle rail, since that's one side of the power pickup!  Whoever told you that you didn't need to clean the middle rail really didn't know what he was talking about, and I'm trying to be kind here.

You don't have to sand the middle rail and remove the black anodize, just use something like Acetone (carefully) to remove the paint.  Note that the black anodize will wear as you run anyway, but you'll start out black.

I also have the clamp on meter GRJ posted above, it is a very nice little meter for the price. Would be very hard to beat that one for that price or even more. I also agree the paint needs to be removed from your center rail for better conductivity to your power pick up rollers on your trains.

For blackening, I have used a product called Blacken-It on the center rail of my Atlas track. It took several applications and did not leave an entirely smooth surface, but the train rollers fix that after some train running and it's only really noticeable up close when first applied. Color is pretty close to the blackening Atlas used on the center rail, but not exact. I have had no problems at all with it affecting power to the train's pick up rollers.

Micro-Mark has a product called Neolube that also blackens things. Others here have used it. Next time I have an order ready for Micro-Mark I plan to get some and try it. Memory is a bit fuzzy on their description (been a while since I last read it), but I believe they say it is conductive in the catalog.

I have not tried it yet, but GRJ has mentioned using gun bluing/blackening (I don't know a lot about guns?) on things for blackening them, but I don't recall if he ever mentioned using it on the center rail of Atlas or any other track and I don't know the effects there? Maybe he will clarify that one if he sees this.

Command control is all I run. I have both DCS and Legacy and so far have had no problems with Atlas track blackening or Blacken-It affecting the DCS (or Legacy) signal or powering the trains. Others have reported problems with Atlas' rail blackening and DCS signals. I have the newer Rev L TIU which could have something to do with it as I believe the Rev L is supposed to have better DCS signal strength and possibly other improvements that could be helping in that area.

I've never tried gun bluing or gun black on the Atlas track, never occurred to me to try.  Some gun bluing will only work on ferrous metals, but other products work on a variety of surfaces.

Didn't think about metal types with the gun bluing? Now I wonder about the Neolube working on nickel-silver? Guess I need to check Micro-Mark's description.

Been a while since I used it, but I believe the Blacken-It said that it worked on nickel-silver, if memory hasn't failed me here.

Never tried Neo Lube....but have used gun blue on Atlas track.  Conducts electric better than whatever Atlas uses......here is the caveat:  ALL of the Atlas black stuff must be removed.  As you clean the surface you will see that whatever Atlas puts on the track to blacken it is most intense in the center, where the roller will make most of it's contact.  This "center line" must be removed!  Once it is remove...and I use sand paper, followed with a scotch brite pad. (The scotch brite pad makes it smooth again) Vacuum  all the dirt/dust and then apply the gun blue.  WIPE the rail clean after allowing the gun blue to work....about a minute. I use a small paint brush to apply the Gun Blue. When finished, the rail will look just like the Atlas track, only with better conductivity.  This works for me.  (Gun blue is not expensive, and available at your local gun store).

A little gun bluing goes a long way as well.

Get an old lighted caboose and mount a new digital voltmeter on the roof or deck. Just wire it to the P.U. roller and frame,there is a bunch on e bay.  Maybe radio shack to. This way you can check the voltage on the run. Have fun

Or you could just mount some meters on each side of an old boxcar and measure track voltage as you roll.

gunrunnerjohn, great idea! Thanks for sharing. Terry

There was a thread on this somewhere on the build.  Basically the trick is you need a fully isolated power supply to power the meters, so I have a 12V regulated supply, a 12V - 12V DC Isolator, and the meters.  The meters are 0-30 VAC meters from eBay, but I can't seem to find similar meters nowadays.  I also had to add track pickups to the two trucks.  The car is an old beat-up Baby Ruth car, it was pretty sad so I gave it a quick paint job.  If I ever get around to it, it'll get some graphics on the side to "finish" it.