@Dallas Joseph posted:What was the purpose for the original perforated floor Scott ? 🤔 I never saw this done on a passenger car .
Hi Dallas, I have no idea, that's the way all 4 K-line cars came and they were new in the box (not prototypical! LoL). I'm going to remove all the furniture from the perforated floor (hopefully nothing breaks) and then cover it with construction paper printed to look like a darker grey carpet. Then I'll glue the furniture to the construction paper.
@RSJB18 posted:Noodling around with my F3. Been hitting a wall with the lighting....again.
Fixed one problem this afternoon. More to go....
What kind of wall have you been hitting Bob ? 🤔
Finally got around to testing the truck replacement I did a while back. It seems the replacement truck is geared differently, there are two part numbers for replacement trucks and no parts list for my item number so I had to guess and I guessed wrong. so I put the old one back on but ran into a bit of an issue.
Had to get the soldering iron out and fix that break.
A good cleaning and relube seemed to fix the original truck. Still noisy but not like it was.
I also got the new SD70MAC I pre-ordered on the layout. I picked it up from my LHS yesterday.
Happy railroading everyone!
@Dallas Joseph posted:What was the purpose for the original perforated floor Scott ? 🤔 I never saw this done on a passenger car .
Aloud for any arraignment of floor plans.
@shasta posted:Aloud for any arraignment of floor plans.
Shasta, I would agree with you and that's what I thought too, but in this case there were no pins or attachments on the furniture that went into the holes on the floor. All the furniture was just glued to the perforated floor. Maybe in another K-line passenger car set the holes were used to install and align the furniture using the hole patterns. I haven't opened up the coach cars yet, so the holes maybe used in those for seating alignment. I'll find out soon enough as those cars have passengers that have come unglued as well.
@Dallas Joseph posted:What kind of wall have you been hitting Bob ? 🤔
Dallas- I tested everything the other day and the lights weren't working correctly. The headlight and markers were flickering and the cab light wouldn't turn off. I went back to the wiring schematic and realized that the common had to go to the chassis ground, not the common on the board. Quick fix.
Next I figured out the cab light- rookie mistake with programming on my Cab 1L.
Tested everything again yesterday and the headlight works but the markers only flicker briefly. 
When tested on my bench they work fine so I'm going to go thru everything once again and see where the issue is.
Head meet wall...........
Bob
Keep at it Bob, you'll find the answer.
The patches look great Lee.
Andy
Good morning Y'all
Last night I finished placing track for two levels. Still need more power drop outs. I'm running different combinations to find clearance problems. I'm running trains again!
Bill
p51 Patches look great. You need to set up a process for ordering...I am on your list for a patch and still want one.
Don
I think a libation will help you correct the situation Bob. It clears the mind and provides a refreshing perspective.
Tonight I opened the box to my newly purchased S1Railking C&O and placed her on the layout tracks for maiden run… looks real good to me 😊
Runs the inclines like non other on my shelves…she is worth the wait.
Today I prototyped one or four crossing gates for the layout. It's a reuse of the older Plasticville Manual Crossing Gates which can be found dirt cheap. Added a LED, a servo unit and fabricated the linkages out of brass tubes and rods. Altogether, I figure I have the staggering amount of about $10 per gate.
Oh well, guess I cant' take the wife out to dinner this week. Very brief (shaky video) attached.
Barry
Barnum, that’s great work.
@romiller49 posted:Barnum, that’s great work.
Thanks Rod (and the others for the 'Likes'). One thing, I do find these cost effective. 
Barry
@RSJB18 posted:Dallas- I tested everything the other day and the lights weren't working correctly. The headlight and markers were flickering and the cab light wouldn't turn off. I went back to the wiring schematic and realized that the common had to go to the chassis ground, not the common on the board. Quick fix.
Next I figured out the cab light- rookie mistake with programming on my Cab 1L.
Tested everything again yesterday and the headlight works but the markers only flicker briefly.Head meet wall...........
Bob
Not familiar with the Lionel command controls Bob .........maybe time to shoot some photos ( not the engine ) for the techs on the forum.
It always seems to take me way too long to figure out issues like you are encountering . Those markers were the ones that change color, right ? That alone would have me using my head for a wrecking ball 
So realizing today that I haven't a ton of time left to search out new avenues of electronic creativity as you have 
...............I just ran trains. 
@Seth Thomas- I bought the LIRR RS-1. It's is a beauty and a great runner. Enjoy!
@barnun- Nice work with the P-ville gates. The LED on the arm is a nice touch too.
@p51- I like the patches Lee.
@Odenville Bill- Nice to see a train running again!
@Tranquil Hollow RR @Dallas Joseph- No heads (or trains) have been damaged in the making of these posts............ and a few cocktails have been consumed. 
I've been in touch with GRJ for assistance. I bought the AC commander board from a forum member so I'm wondering if the lighting outputs are not working properly???
Not much layout time this weekend but I did patch the holes in my other F3 shell. I used the Durham's Water Putty that @Steamfan77 Andy, recommended. Easy to work with and I will check the results tonight.
Watching a couple of items on today's Cabin Fever Auction.........stay tuned.
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:@Tranquil Hollow RR@Dallas Joseph- No heads (or trains) have been damaged in the making of these posts.......
Bob
LOL. bd
barnun - great job - I love it ! JP
Looking good everyone! Last two days I decided to try my hand in dry brush weathering and this is what I have so far. I thought I would start off small with MPC rolling stock instead of going whole Hogg on a scale box car.
@RSJB18 posted:@Seth Thomas- I bought the LIRR RS-1. It's is a beauty and a great runner. Enjoy!
@barnun- Nice work with the P-ville gates. The LED on the arm is a nice touch too.
@p51- I like the patches Lee.
@Odenville Bill- Nice to see a train running again!
@Tranquil Hollow RR @Dallas Joseph- No heads (or trains) have been damaged in the making of these posts.......
Not much layout time this weekend but I did patch the holes in my other F3 shell. I used the Durham's Water Putty that @Steamfan77 Andy, recommended. Easy to work with and I will check the results tonight.
Watching a couple of items on today's Cabin Fever Auction.........stay tuned.
Bob
That’s great Bob! Hope it works out well for you.
Andy
I touched up the area with some flat brown paint. The oak tag in the back is to create a template for the bunk house. The “L” shaped bunk house will be located inside the red circle. I’ll touch up the ballast along a few of the tracks, secure the top cap on the turntable, then lay down some ground cover.
Andy
As previously mentioned.... Not exactly what I was hoping for but I'm happy with the purchases.
I've wanted a MTH ALCO S2 for a while but the prices are nuts. I picked up a NYC dummy and a SOO chassis minus the boards. The motors and frame are all I really need, with a repaint, and I'll throw a ERR Cruise M in for power.
There was a LIRR S2 in the 50's-60's gray/ orange paint that I really wanted but I was outbid ....
Just what I need....another project......
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:As previously mentioned.... Not exactly what I was hoping for but I'm happy with the purchases.
I've wanted a MTH ALCO S2 for a while but the prices are nuts. I picked up a NYC dummy and a SOO chassis minus the boards. The motors and frame are all I really need, with a repaint, and I'll throw a ERR Cruise M in for power.
There was a LIRR S2 in the 50's-60's gray/ orange paint that I really wanted but I was outbid ....
Just what I need....another project......
Bob
Nice project, Bob. I regret not picking up that LIRR s2 when it came out as well. Hopefully Trainworld gets MTH to do a reissue for those of us not as technically proficient as you. The black LIRR VO1000s from 2017 are also on my reissue wish list. Can’t believe I missed out on one of those as well.
@Strap Hanger posted:Nice project, Bob. I regret not picking up that LIRR s2 when it came out as well. Hopefully Trainworld gets MTH to do a reissue for those of us not as technically proficient as you. The black LIRR VO1000s from 2017 are also on my reissue wish list. Can’t believe I missed out on one of those as well.
Well there's only one thing to do....
Hey Ken Jr @TrainWorld.com. Are you listening???? 😁😉😁😉
Thanks- it'll be a while before I get to it but i can run the dummy with a powered loco until time permits.
Bob
Finally got around to installing manhole covers and storm drains.
Planning a mock up on the floor trying to fit in the six stall roundhouse i won. Boy these things take up a lot of real estate, real estate i do not have. Looks like it will become a three stall instead. I suppose track planning software would help but I need to see the space before i attemptva build. Going to leave this in place for a few days to see if it grows on me.
@modeltrainsparts posted:Finally got around to installing manhole covers and storm drains.
What an awesome scene! I just sat there studying away, trying to absorb all the detail. Nicely done!
George
Received from Christine Braden custom mixed Createx dark green paint to match a NP North Coast Limited set I painted 25+ years ago, then sprayed a donor car for a paint comparison--a perfect match to my eye and the friend I'm painting a couple of cars for. Have since sprayed the two cars (a large door baggage car and RPO car) to be added to the NP NCL set.
For my new NP NCL set, I'm doing touch up work preparatory to decaling the remaining four cars of the nine in the set.
Also, experimenting with installing LED strip lights in the ceiling of the short vista domes (there are four in the train set) and concealing the 30 awg wire -- no easy task with XL hands/fingers and the occasional tremor common to those of us who are no longer young.
Everyone is working on very different and nice projects!
I didn't like how my station was facing the track, that is there was very little straight track. I got the idea to extend the passing siding to the lift up bridge, but not cross the bridge. It is to give the impression there used to be a 2-track bridge, but a single track bridge was put in its place. I had a couple of unused GarGraves switches, and one was almost a perfect match to the flex tract that curves to the switch that joins the siding to the mainline. I like how this mock up looks. Right now there is no roadbed, the track is suspended in air. The scribed northeastern sheets will be cut to provide a nice platform on 3 sides of the station. I still have a lot of details to add to the station. Also, the prototype was built right next to a stream, so the platform had a railing along the platform that extends down the track and another railing on the side facing the viewer. I think this will work.
Before
After
.....and, so we begin......the picture of the completed structure is from the TW TrainWorx website......
Peter
I'm back working on my layout after a long, long layoff. I had a hinged kit built wooden bridge that allowed entrance into the room. The bridge was starting to come apart at several glue joints. I decided to replace it with a MTH arch bridge with girder extensions. I've had to narrow the entrance due to the MTH bridge is 6 inches shorter. I'm changing from the hinge to a lift-up/rotate design. the bridge will rotate and then rest on some sort of support on the edge of the layout. The layout has an upper two track main with a shared center passing siding. The lower track is a double reverse loop with a passing siding. The room is a total mess right now so I need to clean it up then I'll get some pictures. Here are a couple of pictures of the initial bridge mock up.
Got some more cars weathered and will probably stop here for now.
@Trainmaster04 posted:Got some more cars weathered and will probably stop here for now.
Why? Looks like you were really rolling (so to speak). Great job. bd
@barnun posted:Why? Looks like you were really rolling (so to speak). Great job. bd
Thanks! I am sort of running out of semi scale rolling stock I am willing to paint, and I need what I have left to use for an up coming club clinic. Also, I am next going to try a locomotive and that will take much longer than a car. I will probably be back at it with rolling stock soon. I am just taking a minor break.
Just got done with a scenery project. My son inlaw has cancer and I wanted to dedicate this to him. He has his degree in chemistry and is a professor at Eastern Washington University in Cheney Washington. I do hope he will enjoy. The building is named after him Dr. J. Manson Labratory. Bought the shadow box from Doug at Todd Architectural. Thanks for your help Doug.
Bill this is a very nice scene. Your son should appreciate it. He is in our prayers.
Today we completed the installation of 8 MTH floodlights. We began with replacing the 4 bulbs with 10mm LEDs and installed them around the perimeter of the steam service ”Roanoke Shops” area.
Then we installed Randolph Street Tower, built to resemble a tower located on the diamond in Roanoke. The building has separate lighting for day, night, and both. Harry Hieke built the main structure and Paula and I did the interior and most of the lighting.
Bill your night cast is from the pot lights I would assume they are blue. What light bulb are you using if I my ask. I love what you have done with your lighting.
Finished building a stairway for getting down to street level from the bridge walkway above.
Rod, if I may say so ... that IS SOME beautiful work. bd
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