What did you do on your layout today?

Guys....I remind you of the title of this thread.  There are many audio and audiophile blogs on the web....this is not one of them!  Keep the discussion on track please.....

darlander posted:

It has been a very busy May/June with little time for trains but I have still managed a bit of time to work on the KDAL TV/Radio tower.   I had an extra blinking red LED that needed a home.   It now sits atop the tower.

The tower is constructed from brass tubing and wire.   Brass is so easy to work with as solder joints make for an instant bond.    Tower photos off the internet plus a few of my own served as inspiration for the build.   The tower is a scale 85 ft tall.   It still needs to be washed, primed and painted.    When finished, it will reside in a darkened corner of the layout adjacent to the Duluth cityscape.

Greetings to all and may you all enjoy a wonderful 4th of July with family and friends,

Cheers, Dave

Very nice Dave! Do you use a mini torch or iron to solder the brass?

Looks great on the layout too.

Bob

Brian, You know they have places that rent trucks! Just saying! LOL

Patrick, I am glad you had a chance to run some trains! Kind of makes life seam fun again!

Dave the tower looks Amazing! Where did you get the tubbing, and how many hours did you spend cutting it to size! LOL

Well I didn't get anything done yesterday after golf, did think it would be a good idea to start up the table saw after a few cold ones. Maybe today!

mike g. posted:

Morning guys, I didn't get much done yesterday do to honey do projects. But I did get to work on Randy H. drive motor for his yard crane, I was disappointed what I got done yesterday so I was out there this morning at 5 AM working on it. Good news Randy its done, I just need you to send me your address and I will get it out to you. Here are a couple pictures and a short video for you! Remember most of this stuff was from an old DVD player. the roller wheels are from an old money counter.

Mike:

Thank you very much! Send me a private E-Mail so that I can compensate you for you parts and time.

RSJB18 posted:

Very nice Dave! Do you use a mini torch or iron to solder the brass?

Looks great on the layout too.

Bob

Bob, I use an old dual (15W/30W) wattage solder iron (pen) from Radio Shack.   I flux each joint and tip the iron with solder and then touch the joint.   It doesn't take but a few seconds to heat and flow the solder into the joint.   The board holding the structure has position markings and the masking tape keeps the alignment during heating.   As I progress the structure becomes increasingly more stable even though common joints are reheat when new pieces are added to that location.   The other soldered joints help keep the structure from falling apart when adding pieces.  I have never used a mini torch, but it sounds a little scary for me - might be too much heat.

Mike, the brass tubing and wire come from K&S Precision Metals.  Hobby Lobby, some local hardware stores and most hobby shops usually carry a assortment display rack of K&S Precision Metal products.   You can also order off the internet.   They package a wide variety of brass and copper tubes, square channels, wire, sheets, etc. in various sizes.  The total cost of the tower is around $15 and I have about 15 -20 hours into the planning, design and construction.   I have been working on/off for about 2 months.   Hey, I'm retired, so I just chip away, no rush to get it done!

I was weaned on two previous simpler projects before the tower project which was a little more involved.  Revisit posts below:

New Trolley railing:
https://ogrforum.com/...32#71538114098343932    3/5/17   7:15pm

https://ogrforum.com/...ayout-today?page=294
3/8//17   9:30pm

https://ogrforum.com/...09#77734316144086609    2/11/18    6:30pm

Cheers, Dave

@darlander   more heat allows faster working with less heat spread due to shorter times to heat one point.      But at that gauge size on parts, you're also about right I'd say.

I.e. if reaheating loosens nearby puddles, more heat and less time applied can help keep the nearby puddle solid. (that or dialing in temp super close to min.; close enough so nearby puddles stay under temp..longer and harder to manage imo, but style differs and hot requires being fast in/ fast out)

By request from @JohnD's father, proof that I'm still alive and well!   

Haven't been doing much on my layout,  but been busy at the A&M Museum with summer tour groups... 

(apologies for the blurriness; my flip phone isn't the best at doing interior pics.) 

On 6/29, some of my ham radio chums took over parlor car 107 for some mobile radio-ing...

Here, the seldom used caboose, 104 and 105 are pushed in front of the station so that the rest of the consist can be washed... 

Car 104 was used in the motion picture of the same name: 

Mitch 

Ran the Lake Shore Limited through Elizabeth City on the Cuyahoga Valley RR...

M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

By request from @JohnD's father, proof that I'm still alive and well!   

 

Mitch 

Technically at my request.  I was asking about you when he and I were chatting the other day.

Glad you are well. 

How many cotton balls and tongue depresses did you scrounge from the hospital? 

Adriatic posted:

@darlander   more heat allows faster working with less heat spread due to shorter times to heat one point.      But at that gauge size on parts, you're also about right I'd say.

I.e. if reaheating loosens nearby puddles, more heat and less time applied can help keep the nearby puddle solid. (that or dialing in temp super close to min.; close enough so nearby puddles stay under temp..longer and harder to manage imo, but style differs and hot requires being fast in/ fast out)

My thought on the mini torch was that by nature of a flame, there would be more heat spread.   I really did not have a problem with parts loosening when I added the wire cross members.  If I were to make more towers, I probably would invest in a variable 60W soldering iron.   Thanks for the tips.  

Cheers, Dave

I meant a soldering iron too, lol. The torch would definitely have less pin point control.  It would get the job done, but not with the accuracy of an iron.

I use a 200-260w two stage gun for most of my elect.. stuff.

When I need to be more careful 80-110w (ish) gun, dial temp 60w, then a 40w, a 25w ... and a 15w I've only used once for 24g.

(got that free in a tossed out toolbox of electronics... I just wanted the curbside box but got a TON of goodies out of it too. Breadboards, parts packages, solder removal tools, hand tools, rolls of good (old) solder liquid& paste fluxes, etc, etc, etc 😁)  Nice old box too. No rust, no scratches, etc....  like the guy just gave up or bought all new stuff for no good reason . Didn't move, didn't die; I still see them both.

darlander posted:

Adriatic posted:

@darlander   more heat allows faster working with less heat spread due to shorter times to heat one point.      But at that gauge size on parts, you're also about right I'd say.

I.e. if reaheating loosens nearby puddles, more heat and less time applied can help keep the nearby puddle solid. (that or dialing in temp super close to min.; close enough so nearby puddles stay under temp..longer and harder to manage imo, but style differs and hot requires being fast in/ fast out)

My thought on the mini torch was that by nature of a flame, there would be more heat spread.   I really did not have a problem with parts loosening when I added the wire cross members.  If I were to make more towers, I probably would invest in a variable 60W soldering iron.   Thanks for the tips.  

Cheers, Dave

M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

By request from @JohnD's father, proof that I'm still alive and well!   

Haven't been doing much on my layout,  but been busy at the A&M Museum with summer tour groups... 

Mitch 

Very Happy to hear you’re still alive, Mitch... but “well”??? Me thinks the jury is still out on that one   

But seriously, glad to see you’re keeping busy and representing the hobby. Isn’t the layout in the pic above the one you were looking to have a continuous loop on??? Is that project still on the drawing board???

Regards to Norma and Fortescue!!! 

M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

By request from @JohnD's father, proof that I'm still alive and well!   

Haven't been doing much on my layout,  but been busy at the A&M Museum with summer tour groups... 

 

Mitch 

Sooo.. what you're sayin' is  "Wicked is done resting" 🤗

....and we can be merciless monsters again 👹.

Hmm, where to begin? 🤔 Poke? 👉👁️ Phew?💩💨👃 or simply aim for.... the shins? 👢🔚🚂🚃🚃🚃...no butts... You were missed  😜 

John D. posted:

Technically at my request.  I was asking about you when he and I were chatting the other day.

Indeed! 

How many cotton balls and tongue depresses did you scrounge from the hospital? 

Not nearly enough.   

Apples55 posted:

Very Happy to hear you’re still alive, Mitch... but “well”??? Me thinks the jury is still out on that one 

Physically, anyhow.  ;-) 

But seriously, glad to see you’re keeping busy and representing the hobby. Isn’t the layout in the pic above the one you were looking to have a continuous loop on??? Is that project still on the drawing board???

Yeppers!  'Course, I was also planning a weekend stay at the hospital after my surgery and a couple weeks healing up,  and we all know how THAT went.   

Regards to Norma and Fortescue!!! 

Thankee kindly!  

Adriatic posted:

Sooo.. what you're sayin' is  "Wicked is done resting" 🤗

....and we can be merciless monsters again 👹.

Hmm, where to begin? 🤔 Poke? 👉👁️ Phew?💩💨👃 or simply aim for.... the shins? 👢🔚🚂🚃🚃🚃...no butts... You were missed  😜 

LMAO!  And thanks!

Mitch 

I picked up a green PRR baggage car many years ago at York. MTH offered a set of Madison style cars in green for the PRR back in 2002. This baggage car must have come from that set. Anyway, it doesn't match anything else I have and it's already green so I decided to make it a piece of PC rolling stock. No great challenge really, just remove the "Pennsylvania" from the side and add some PC logos on either end. BTW, I used Q-Tips and a bit of lacquer thinner to gently wipe away the lettering. The trick is to gently wipe and not rub!

Good choice today Brian!

I plan to work on Facade tonight and possibility get it mounted to the layout.  I don't have much time as I have to get the garage cleared to pull in my car tonight.  Gonna work on rebuilding the transmission tomorrow.  

RSJB18, Bob, very nice WM Diesels, nice Chessie diesels, neat train room and layout...Ralph M, I like your B&O diesels and the way you can paint your models, Gandydancer1950, nice layout, looks like a fun to run pike, neat backdrop pictures, Briansilvermustang, Wow, you have the “Trains”, I hope everyone is having a good day, Yesterday a friend brought his new MTH RJ Corman SD20 Diesel over and we ran it on my layout, and they have the colors correct. His engine is #4161, pictured next to my Legacy RJ Corman #5361...I have to say, I am a Lionel Legacy lover, but this MTH diesel ran really fine.  I will Be looking at some MTH Premier Locomotives at York in October....Wow..

Brian and Bob, Very good taste!! 

Larry, I'm seeing RJ Corman everywhere these days!  Very nice!! 

Well friends of the OGR Forum, here are some pictures of FarmerJohns layout, in Kentucky, a true work in progress, a great friend and his nice layout utilizes Lionel Legacy Command, and Gunrunner Johns TM Buffer has truly enhanced the performance of all his Command Locomotives, his signal strength is powerful. It takes up his entire basement, 50 by 70, or close to that. Enjoy the pictures, his work is excellent.  We had a train day last Thursday where 15 to 25 guys get together to socialize and enjoy our trains....

Here is the font facade half completed and in place.   It is held on by magnets so it can be easily removed to allow access to under the layout. 

The kick plate and the top moulding are made with 1 x 6 pine.  I will be painting them black, but when I opened my pint of flat black paint, it was all dried out.  Will have to pick some up soon. 

leapinlarry posted:

Well friends of the OGR Forum, here are some pictures of FarmerJohns layout, in Kentucky, a true work in progress, a great friend and his nice layout utilizes Lionel Legacy Command, and Gunrunner Johns TM Buffer has truly enhanced the performance of all his Command Locomotives, his signal strength is powerful. It takes up his entire basement, 50 by 70, or close to that. Enjoy the pictures, his work is excellent.  We had a train day last Thursday where 15 to 25 guys get together to socialize and enjoy our trains....

 

 

Thanks for sharing this. He ha a magnificent layout!

Can you imagine how happy FarmerJohn is when he goes into his basement to play with all that ?!

I mean, I'm happy just looking at those photos!

FrankM

Oh - there's your problem!   I was disassembling a loco for a completely unrelated issue when the wheel fell off.  I've never seen this before.  Aren't they pressed on? Glued on?

On a happier note - I started watching the Horseshoe Curve virtual webcam on the TV in the basement where my layout is. 1st train that came by as I was running my trains had the NS Penn Central heritage unit on the second half on the lead A-A pair. I've been on a PC roll lately so I took it as a good sign!

Ralph M posted:

Oh - there's your problem!   I was disassembling a loco for a completely unrelated issue when the wheel fell off.  I've never seen this before.  Aren't they pressed on? Glued on?

Pressed on, but the clearances aren't always the tightest, and, if oil seeps in,  well. 

Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces (shaft and wheel),  and a couple drops of Loctite will keep the wheel on nicely.  Superglue will do in a pinch.  

Mitch

briansilvermustang posted:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll see your EMD Demo and raise you Brian!

          COOL  Bob      like them !       who makes the MP-15 ?

It's been a busy past 10 days or so.....Drove out to New Mexico for a little vacationing and sight seeing with the wife for our anniversary, which led to some ideas for mountain scenery on the layout. By the time we got back home, I had enough parts arrive to finally test out my iphone->arduino->relay->postwar accessory control system, and it worked great! Now I can finish up the track layout and determine how many of the relay modules I'll actually be in need of before we head out next week for a family beach trip.

Tower project completed!   Now that I see it in the darkened corner, I'm thinking it should be framed with some mountain greenery, sky & clouds or both.   May need to think hard on that one.   At least I found a home for the wayward blinking LED and had a fun time building the tower.    Happy 4th of July to everyone.  Cheers, Dave

Brian- the MP-15 is a K-line. I need to take it apart and figure out why it doesn't run one day.

Dave- the tower looks great. Perfect spot too.

Let the record show that I found a diesel that Brian doesn't own......🤣

briansilvermustang posted:

 

  

Brian, are we allowed to sell red tags on this forum?

Congratulations Bob on finding an engine Brian doesn't own!!!  

Brian and Bob, they are all really nice demos.

Dave, the tower does look great, but I agree it needs some painted scenery behind it!

Brian, Canadian engines looking good the day before America’s Independence Day!

okay looking for some opinions on what I am thinking.  I have the upper section boards all put in and connected.  I want to make some girders for the side but at over 200 linear feet I would need a 2nd mortgage to buy those commercially made ones from the manufacturers.  So I was thinking using 2" fiberboard on the side and to give it a more realistic look I have been playing around in photoshop making the examples below.  What ones do you guys like or don't like and do you think I should stick with one throughout the entire layout or mix and match due to the various areas of the layout being different. Also as you can see I can put graffiti on the girders especially in my "wrong side of the tracks area".  Thanks in advance.

I like all of them Bryan. I would use different ones for each area of the layout too. Look around at all the different bridge girder types in your area and you will see that many are different.

Watch the clearances on the curves too.

Bob

PS- tell the truth- you posted this just to prove to Paul that you actually built the upper level

Bryan, the two I like are the second one from the top and the bottom one. But if push comes to shove I would do the botom one. I really like the second from the top but the rust pattern on it would be too much with the same rust pattern over and over again. But you also have to be careful with the graffiti. That would be repeated on the bottom one............Paul 2