Skip to main content

Scott--that REALLY looks sweet. Go get 'em! 

Question: The railing at the top of your retaining wall--what is the source for that? 

Today I made the pattern for my helix underlayment (very simple helix--just 3 levels, each one with 3 sections). Then I cut one section from the pattern and laid cork and track on that section to make sure it will actually fit together (3 of my underlayment sections are supposed to support one full loop of the 054 helix) the way I intended. So far, so good. 

Don Merz

One quick add--I am also in the middle of building the Lackawanna Tunkhannock Viaduct kit from TW Trainworx. As with all the Trainworx stuff, it is going well. I wish I could afford ANY of their passenger stations. But they are financially out of my reach. The one station costs more than the first new car I bought in 1975!

But Trainworx makes great kits. The diesel servicing platforms are superb.

Don Merz

Scott--that REALLY looks sweet. Go get 'em! 

Question: The railing at the top of your retaining wall--what is the source for that? 

Today I made the pattern for my helix underlayment (very simple helix--just 3 levels, each one with 3 sections). Then I cut one section from the pattern and laid cork and track on that section to make sure it will actually fit together (3 of my underlayment sections are supposed to support one full loop of the 054 helix) the way I intended. So far, so good. 

Don Merz

Don,

The railings are from Crow River Products. They come with their highway bridge kit but they're available separately as well. 

Thanks,

Scott 

@B&O Fan posted:

Don,

The railings are from Crow River Products. They come with their highway bridge kit but they're available separately as well. 

Thanks,

Scott 

Thanks for the reply Scott. I'll check them out. Never heard of them before. 

"Baltimore born and raised"? Being from Pittsburgh (Born and raised), I am sorry to hear that. But I guess you have survived the handicap. So that's good on you! (just kidding!)

Don

 

I decided to update a cotton ball covered cone I used in photographs to represent smoke. A few of the cotton balls have fallen off, showing the white underneath. I got some pillow stuffing material as packing material in something that showed up in the mail yesterday, so I stretched that over the form, made it look sort of like a smoke column, then spray painted the whole thing black.

0623200721a

I can't wait to try it out in a long exposure, and then removing it about three-quarters of the way through.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 0623200721a
@p51 posted:

I decided to update a cotton ball covered cone I used in photographs to represent smoke. A few of the cotton balls have fallen off, showing the white underneath. I got some pillow stuffing material as packing material in something that showed up in the mail yesterday, so I stretched that over the form, made it look sort of like a smoke column, then spray painted the whole thing black.

0623200721a

I can't wait to try it out in a long exposure, and then removing it about three-quarters of the way through.

Lee, that is truly "thinking out of the box", looks good from here

@RSJB18 posted:

That is really neat Lee.

You shouldn't be giving your trade secrets away though

Hey, if I can talk just ONE more person away from slapping a photo of steam smoke from a photograph, badly photoshopped, into yet another layout shot in a magazine article, it will have all been worth it!

I've had people email me asking how I did it, because smoke in my photographs actually casts shadows. I always reply that it's physically in the picture.

Guys, these are the old techniques that they used to use with film cameras back in the day. In this digital age, so many people have forgotten the simple tricks do work.

Stacking software is the flavor of the month. Yes, if you take a series of really quick photographs of a deep scene on the layout, you're going to need it. Me? Pfffft, don't need it. I use really long exposures to make it work.

Just like they did back in the day.

Last edited by p51
@p51 posted:

I decided to update a cotton ball covered cone I used in photographs to represent smoke. A few of the cotton balls have fallen off, showing the white underneath. I got some pillow stuffing material as packing material in something that showed up in the mail yesterday, so I stretched that over the form, made it look sort of like a smoke column, then spray painted the whole thing black.

0623200721a

I can't wait to try it out in a long exposure, and then removing it about three-quarters of the way through.

Lee, You burst my bubble!   All this time I thought your photos were real!!!!!   It's almost like finding out there is no Easter Bunny, Tooth Fairy or Santa!   Life will never be the same!

Cheers, Dave

PS:  Well done!

I finished detailing the Lionel Union Pacific Excursion "Harriman" Observation with End of Train Lights.  The car is part of the 2027240 2-Pack #4 that also includes the "Lone Star: Business Car shown earlier in this thread.

I painted the seats and coffee tables with three coats of paint and then added Preiser 65602 Seated People that I painted.

Here are a few pictures of the interior before I close the car and run it.

Sincerely, John Rowlen

IMG_2250

IMG_2257

Attachments

Images (10)
  • IMG_2250
  • IMG_2257
  • IMG_2251
  • IMG_2256
  • IMG_2252
  • IMG_2255
  • IMG_2253
  • IMG_2254
  • IMG_2235
  • IMG_2234
Last edited by John Rowlen

Expanding on the cotton for smoke theme, it can also serve a s a static display.  Forming billows around a stiff wire bent at one end roughly into a right angle will replicate a smoke plume at speed.  Less of an angle gives the feel of smoke rising vertically on a cold, still day.  You can add a light spray of black but it's not necessary.  Insert the short end inside the stack and pack the adjacent cotton around the wire to hold all loosely in place.  Doesn't quite look right?  Tug on the tufts to sculpt the billows into an acceptable shape.  The simple illusion of smoke captured in a still frame is enough to breath life into inanimate shelf queens.

Bruce

Recently I purchased a new in the box MTH UP Alco C628.  I consider myself very fortunate to find this model since it’s been on the shelf since December, 2002. In 1973 the Missabe was looking for motive power to help handle the increase taconite shipments brought about by the improved economy.   EMD, their preferred power choice, was unable to fill orders for new locomotives until 1975.  The Union Pacific sold 10 Century series Alco C630s to the Missabe to fill the void until the order of five SD38-2 could be delivered.

The Missabe painted over the UP markings, blocked out the first digit of the number designation and added simple DMIR markings to show ownership.

I have been busy assigning this model to the DM&IR.  Had to removed all UP markings and modified the original 4 digit locomotive number to 3 digits.  I lightly sanded out the markings using 400 emery paper and repainted areas with UP Armour Yellow from True-Color Paint.  I made brass foot boards and epoxied them to the pilot.   I moved the horn to the back, over the radiator.   Missabe did this to prevented them from freezing up in the winter.   Added a firecracker antenna to the cab roof and high MU stands to the front and rear pilots per prototype.

Since my model was a C628, I needed to modify the venting and create a larger hood bulge south of the cab.   When Alco upgraded the horsepower of the Century series, a larger venting system was required.   I was able to raid my junk supply box and find suitable pieces of styrene to create the illusion.   When chipping away at the old venting, I was pleased to discover that it was an insert and not part of the original casting.   MTH offers this model in both series, C628 & C630 and the only difference, is the style of the insert.   I was able to reuse the insert after sanding and clean it up however, I added another piece of styrene to give the venting more bulge.   I also gave the locomotive and pilots a fresh coat of UP Harbor Mist Gray.   I added all weather cab windows which is a signature detail found on all Missabe hood units.

After posting a forum discussion on custom/making decals, I ended up buying water slide decal paper from Amazon and printed my own.   I am very pleased with the way they turned out thanks to the advice and help I received from the forum.  Thanks to all who responded!

I’m currently constructing brass, step bridges to add to the pilots.   I will soon give the locomotive a coat of matte finish and then highlight the venting with some caulk dust and weather the entire locomotive.

As for now, does anyone know how I can get this Alco to blow prototypical black smoke???

Always fun to share and follow all the project posts.   Lots of great projects are taking place!   Hopefully, we will all be able to get out of the house someday in the coming months.

PS: Until then, I invite you to visit and follow the short programs that highlight the Lake Superior Railroad Museum’s collection:

https://www.youtube.com/playli...CSI4bn_W7nWrhgXlwtLu

Here are a few pics of the transformation:

DSC07809DSC07814IMG_1657DSC07812DSC07818DSC07821IMG_1650IMG_1656

Cheers, Dave

Attachments

Images (10)
  • DSC07809
  • DSC07814
  • DSC07812
  • DSC07818
  • DSC07802
  • DSC07821
  • IMG_1656
  • IMG_1657
  • IMG_1661
  • IMG_1650
Last edited by darlander

Today I added the the fourth section of the new layout, I had almost had the first one done when the wife said she wanted to move to Pennsylvania, Ok I took down the layout and packed everything up. OK stuff happens and she does not want to move now...Today I started the fifth section of the new layout, which will be a lot smaller. which is ok, we decided to fix up the basement to look more like humans inhabit there.

The clock is ticking faster now so I have to hurry...

(P51)  Lee, very impressed by your modeling.  I have to relearn how to shoot photos, not that I was that good at with film.  Thinking about your smoke.   

First is an early January shot of the Durango Silverton excursion going up a gentle grade. Smoke has a lot of grey in it and somewhat billowy. Looks like you've ridden on those rails.  The second is when the Norfolk and Western 611 pulled into Wheaton Illinois during an excursion. Barely making any smoke but denser in the center and lighter at the edges. I have a great photo of the SP 4449 running somewhere out west, billowing like crazy but more white or grey than black. My bro-in law took the photo so I do not have rights to post.  But there are similar shots on the web. I wonder if you could alternate exposures with the grey and then black simulated smoke to build an image. Jeff

BTW Michael Wilson posted some great photos of the 611 under full steam yesterday, 

PICT0013img058

Attachments

Images (2)
  • N&W 611: Eastbound pulling into Wheaton Illinois  (I think?)
  • Durango Silverton Narrow Gauge circa Jan 2000: A foot of snow overnight makes for great contrast with the orange passenger cars and black steamer
Last edited by ScoutingDad

ALL THAT NEEDS BE DONE IS TO VIEW "A GRAND DAY OUT".  IT STARS  WALLACE AND GROMMIT.  THEY TOO, LOVE TRAINS. 

THE PRODUCTION  UNEQUIVOCALLY PROVES  THAT FOR EONS,  THE LONE OBJECT HAS ORBITED OUR 'THIRD ROCK' WHICH IS INDEED MADE OUT OF CHEESE.   THE SUM'S COMPLETED BY ADDING "LUNA BRAND CHEESE" TO "MOON SHINE CRACKERS"  & WASHIN'  'EM' ALL DOWN WITH A PINT  OF CLASSIC ENGLISH STOUT, MATE.

BURP!

SHIFFY

 

 

 

 

 

I started detailing the Lionel 2027170 UP Challenger 2-pack #3.  The set includes a Coach and a new Dining Dome Car #8003.  The car has tables in the Dome.

Here are a few pictures of the Dome Tables.  I spent eight hours grinding and repainting figures to fit them under the tables.  I tried to save one leg on the people when possible by grinding the leg thinner and then "Corkscrewing" the leg between the chair and the table top.  This took the most time and made it necessary to repaint parts of the people.

I will update this post after I place people in the lower level of this car,  The lower level is like the Alaska Dome Car that I previously posted.

UPDATE 1:  I installed people in the lower Lounge and at three of the large round tables and two small.

UPDATE 2:  When possible I offset grind with the Dremel Drum Sander,  the figure like the woman with the cane in order to keep her arm, cane and part of her blue dress.  The overweight man has a leg on either side of the table.  The Dremel Sanding Drum cuts the circle about the size of the round four-person tables.

The car is finally done.

Sincerely, John Rowlen

IMG_2289

Attachments

Images (22)
  • IMG_2272
  • IMG_2270
  • IMG_2269
  • IMG_2268
  • IMG_2267
  • IMG_2266
  • IMG_2265
  • IMG_2264
  • IMG_2261
  • IMG_2138
  • IMG_2278
  • IMG_2277
  • IMG_2276
  • IMG_2275
  • IMG_2290
  • IMG_2280
  • IMG_2281
  • IMG_2289
  • IMG_2287
  • IMG_2286
  • IMG_2285
  • IMG_2284
Last edited by John Rowlen

Winston B., 

I use a Tamiya 87155 "Fine' Paint Brush. It is a longer bristle that is about the length of the depth of the small cube seats in the dining cars.  I paint at an approximate 45 degree angle to the joint of seat and floor.  I do make mistakes that are repainted to create a straight line when a paint line is choppy --- smooth it out and the eye does not see the flaw. 

I also use the Tamiya 87154 "Extra Fine" Paint brush for general painting to paint the Preiser 65602 Seated People.

The Tamiya 87153 "Ultra Fine" is good for painting neck ties and touching up small flaws in my paint job.

The three Tamiya brushes (listed from largest to smallest)  last a good amount of time and are suited to the small detail painting I do.

Thank you for your question.  Have a good evening,

Sincerely, John Rowlen

IMG_20200625_204821IMG_20200625_205556IMG_20200625_211717Tonight I continued road train orders in session no. 1. The mail train completed its order through 4 blocks and is sitting on a passenger team track. Next, the local commuter with an RPO, coach baggage combine and 2 coaches behind an Atlantic completed its run which included 2 stops at rural stations and a stop for water before retiring to a team track. An M1a left the local engine facility after taking coal and water to meet up with a tanker train. Meanwhile, a mixed road freight was interrupted for ten minutes to replace a faulty tire on the decapod. It took water in town,  continued to the freight yard to drop the freight cars. and ended at the engine facility to take coal. Next week I hopefully will complete session no.1 running the road tanker train.

Attachments

Images (3)
  • IMG_20200625_204821
  • IMG_20200625_205556
  • IMG_20200625_211717
Last edited by pennsynut
@John Rowlen posted:

Winston B., 

I use a Tamiya 87155 "Fine' Paint Brush. It is a longer bristle that is about the length of the depth of the small cube seats in the dining cars.  I paint at an approximate 45 degree angle to the joint of seat and floor.  I do make mistakes that are repainted to create a straight line when a paint line is choppy --- smooth it out and the eye does not see the flaw. 

I also use the Tamiya 87154 "Extra Fine" Paint brush for general painting to paint the Preiser 65602 Seated People.

The Tamiya 87153 "Ultra Fine" is good for painting neck ties and touching up small flaws in my paint job.

The three Tamiya brushes (listed from largest to smallest)  last a good amount of time and are suited to the small detail painting I do.

Thank you for your question.  Have a good evening,

Sincerely, John Rowlen

Thanks for the info. 

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×