What did you do on your layout today?

Matt thanks for the suggestion about the columns on the right side.  I appreciate the input, and it may just be too much.  I think I will get the foundation block pieces for the bottom of these sections cut,  and do some rough in work on the roof line for the center entry hall, then re-evaluate.  Have to replace a "sticking / freezing brake caliper" today on my mini-van, as the temps are supposed to hit 50, so it may be a day off on the kit-bash project.   

Bob, I really like the gravel road entering the tunnel scene,  great job mixing the grass in, and the image inside the tunnel entrance works well. 

Thanks @chris a and @StrapHanger

I printed some new backdrops to put behind the corner today. Not sure if I will get them up on the walls tonight.

Bob

What are their dimensions Bob? Are they photos you took?

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

What are their dimensions Bob? Are they photos you took?

Jay- I have some existing backdrop prints on the wall that I printed from a website on 11X17 cardstock paper. I will piece them together as best as possible. This is not a permanent layout so real backdrops will wait till the next one. This does the job to cover the bare walls since the CEO frowned upon my suggestion to paint the walls blue. I don't have the clearance for 3D building flats either.

You can see the seam in this photo. The skyline works OK but the landscape doesn't.

Thanks- Bob

On my layout, I am working on isolating blocks, checking switches for proper wiring and soldering feeder drops to the rails.

If I had half a brain, I would have put insulating pins in the center rails where I wanted blocks divided WHILE I was laying track. But hey, that would have been too easy!

Instead, I have to lift up 2 adjacent track sections, separate them, replace the center joiner pin with an insulated pin and re-lay the track sections. This is in the category of "not much fun".

Don Merz

@RSJB18 posted:

Great presentation Lee. I skimmed through it but will go back and watch the whole thing over coffee on the weekend.

Bob

I hope it's not too boring. After I was done, my wife said I talked way too fast. But going back and reviewing it, I think if I'd talked appreciably slower, doctors would prescribe it as a cure for insomnia.

Chris A,

That is turning out to be one majestic station - I love it. Great work.

Cant wait to see a pic of it on the layout

@p51 posted:

I hope it's not too boring. After I was done, my wife said I talked way too fast. But going back and reviewing it, I think if I'd talked appreciably slower, doctors would prescribe it as a cure for insomnia.

I think it's a good presentation on how you developed your railroad. It takes a lot of words to get the details across.

I've done many presentations over the years at work and I'm also a fast-talker, to borrow a Seinfeld term.

@Don Merz 070317 posted:

On my layout, I am working on isolating blocks, checking switches for proper wiring and soldering feeder drops to the rails.

If I had half a brain, I would have put insulating pins in the center rails where I wanted blocks divided WHILE I was laying track. But hey, that would have been too easy!

Instead, I have to lift up 2 adjacent track sections, separate them, replace the center joiner pin with an insulated pin and re-lay the track sections. This is in the category of "not much fun".

Don Merz

Don- you can also just cut a gap between the rails with a Dremel tool. I've done it on tubular track many times. Just cut right through the pin and an instant block is created.

RSJB18....hmmmm...I have resisted this approach. But I am tempted. Do you have the gap 1/8 of an inch? Or less? Do you fill in with glue? Or just leave it empty? I saw one guy on the web who dropped in styrene and carved it to the rail shape.

My layout is under-engineered! Things will move. I want to prevent the gap closing as time and wear might have their way with the layout.

Don

@Don Merz 070317 posted:

RSJB18....hmmmm...I have resisted this approach. But I am tempted. Do you have the gap 1/8 of an inch? Or less? Do you fill in with glue? Or just leave it empty? I saw one guy on the web who dropped in styrene and carved it to the rail shape.

My layout is under-engineered! Things will move. I want to prevent the gap closing as time and wear might have their way with the layout.

Don

I've done both- left a gap or added styrene, depends on the location. If your track is secured to the board it shouldn't move once you cut it.

In my operating sessions, the last manuver for road order trains usually includes a run through my reversing track before moving to the last position that is also the starting position for the next session. The remote switch machines on both ends of the reversing track failed to deploy for some time but I have not been running too much and been working on other train projects. One failed to operate at all, the other operated in one position and only partially in the opposite position. I decided to fix the problems today. I got on the web and watched diy vids for remote hand throws. On a hunch I fiddled with the slide mechanism and saw a stray hair of wire on the one that partially deployed. I also loosened one track screw near the turnout and made sure the switch was not hanging up. That's all it took. A miracle! But wait, there's more. On a second hunch I tried the remote on the other switch, and it worked! A second miracle. Maybe it's time for a lottery hunch. Cheers.

Just finished up a similar project on my MTH RealTrax layout.  Decided against more complex methods and went with a gap cut into the middle rail and simple switch glued under the track.

As expected the older solid rail RealTrax is harder to cut and solder then the newer hollow rail.  I used a Dremel with cutoff wheel.  I found my cutoff wheels became dull after cutting two
of the solid rail pieces.   My gaps are more then 1/8", in hindsight I should have cut closer to the end because the Dremel has to move in an "arc" to cut the bottom of the rail.  Not planning
to fill in gap for now.   After cutting I did secure the track to plastic road with gap-filling CA glue, which dried with a glossy shine and will be touched up.  Works method well for me since the section where switches are located is only 24" deep.   Gone are the days of taking a conventional locomotive off the track to run another one!

A little preview of this weekend's NW Arkansas Train Show! 

A former Illinois Central GP9 is now resplendent as a GP7 in Frisco colors.  Will have to get some decal setting solution for the end zebra stripes, but will do for now:

Bet you didn't know the Frisco had gi-raffe cars! 

...To be fair, neither did they. 

Mitch

Mitch:  LOVE the Giraffe's....keep'um coming!

Best Regards

Don

As the platform continues. Creating enough space to proper distancing, don't think my people need masks

@p51 posted:

I hope it's not too boring. After I was done, my wife said I talked way too fast. But going back and reviewing it, I think if I'd talked appreciably slower, doctors would prescribe it as a cure for insomnia.

Very well done Lee.   Really enjoyed the history and your presentation.   Have been impressed from the start but, really appreciated learning more about the historical perspective that inspires your layout!    Congratulations and thanks for sharing!  

Cheers, Dave

@RSJB18 posted:

I got some ground cover and gravel down last night after dinner.

Still work to do but I'm happy with the results so far.

I also fired up my new RS-1. MTH did a great job with the sound on this ALCO.

Very nice progress Bob looks good

What did I do? I ran my Weaver RSD12 C&O with a mixed Manifest of Weaver Boxcars and Lionel Piggybacks.

Been a slow week for me so far. To much PTC at work so was a nice break to work on my own trains. Weathered another wood side reefer, added more trees and some ground cover. Had a order come in from scenic express so should get some good work done this weekend.

You all may know I have bought much of my equipment used through various sources. Lately I have been ordering MTH engines as they become available. I now have 3 on backorder. So much for buying used.

I have several Ross switches which were pretty worn out by the previous owner which now need to have the draw bars replaced. I could not figure out why, on occasion, I was getting derailments and finally figured out the points were a bit floppy meaning the switches would not always move completely in the desired direction. Steve at Ross responded amazingly quickly to my email and is sending over replacements for me. He knows I bought these used. Somehow I will reimburse him for the parts. Wow, what great service. My compliments to Steve at Ross.

Anyway I have not really made any progress in the layout pending the draw bar replacements. Other than adding another switch for my tank farm to give me a double rail loading area, nothing much else to report.

I do have a question - what do you all use for filling the narrow spaces between rails?  Some kind of dirt with a little bit of grass or something seems right. Was looking at Brennan's dirt ???

Jeff

Experimented with placing a non-powered F3B unit between the powered and non-powered F3A-A LC 2.0. I had bought several of such uninspiring pieces over the years, most via eBAY...The LC engine ran just fine with non-powered F3A running its headlight in reverse, unimpeded...

@ScoutingDad posted:

You all may know I have bought much of my equipment used through various sources. Lately I have been ordering MTH engines as they become available. I now have 3 on backorder. So much for buying used.

I have several Ross switches which were pretty worn out by the previous owner which now need to have the draw bars replaced. I could not figure out why, on occasion, I was getting derailments and finally figured out the points were a bit floppy meaning the switches would not always move completely in the desired direction. Steve at Ross responded amazingly quickly to my email and is sending over replacements for me. He knows I bought these used. Somehow I will reimburse him for the parts. Wow, what great service. My compliments to Steve at Ross.

Anyway I have not really made any progress in the layout pending the draw bar replacements. Other than adding another switch for my tank farm to give me a double rail loading area, nothing much else to report.

I do have a question - what do you all use for filling the narrow spaces between rails?  Some kind of dirt with a little bit of grass or something seems right. Was looking at Brennan's dirt ???

Jeff

Hi Jeff, I am so cheap I dug up my own dirt took out the big rocks. Then baked it. I then used different sizes for sifting.

Finally wired up my 450 signal bridge after years of trying to find a place for it.  When I rebuilt my upper level I had a good spot.

I used an Arduino Nano, dual relay arduino board and 2 IR sensors for the triggers.

Still have to fill in the space where it is hanging off the board, but at least it works!

Some goodies arrived today.

New to me 6 pack of MTH coalporters, bought used but look like they have never been run, and a 4 pack of brand new lionel coalporters.

I took some pictures comparing them.

I think the MTH cars are a bit more detailed. It's a real bummer MTH is shutting down, their premier rolling stock is mostly scale and detailed at a great price. A lot of the scale lionel rolling stock is too expensive for what it is. But I like the lionel coal load better.

Anyway, as a unit train they match up well.

@p51 posted:

My presentation to a NMRA affiliated group on Friday was edited down to this in case you might be interested:

https://youtu.be/AztpmExwYrE

Great Job Lee! I enjoyed the video

Been working on my little town .

@TrainManMike posted:

Finally wired up my 450 signal bridge after years of trying to find a place for it.  When I rebuilt my upper level I had a good spot.

I used an Arduino Nano, dual relay arduino board and 2 IR sensors for the triggers.

Still have to fill in the space where it is hanging off the board, but at least it works!

Looks nice. I’m debating to build another layout all traditional now I probably will looking at all these nice layouts done in traditional fashion.

Let there be light! I have another set of the #65 yard lights to use if need be. I've got all the loading and unloading accessories wired up and I'm working on lighting. I'm also trying to figure out what Plasticville buildings I want to use.

This could also go in the what's new post - This EF-3 set arrived yesterday. Got it on the tracks and gave it a little juice to see if the battery was OK. I'll just replace it with a BCR to avoid any issues as the battery does not seem to be charging properly.  Bought this "used" - while someone previously took it out of the box, it had little if any "on" time and no miles. Rear pantograph will not operate, front one sticks but will raise and lower. I'll have to do a bit of work on it and review an old post by gunrunner dealing with the MTH pantographs.

This version has a switch to select running power through the pick up rollers or the pantographs.

Lastly I would love to have seen this beast on Scale rail 's old layout. His Last Run video got me hooked on the electrics, and Milwaukee Road in particular. Next layout, up goes the Marklin overhead wires which I've been accumulating over the past few months - used of course ; ) . 

Spent too much on it, but at this point its either spend it on a car, golf or trains. I'll pick the trains at this point - its for the grand kids of course.

@farmerjohn posted:

Been working on my little town .

FarmerJohn, I really like the curved street.  The town is looking great!

ScoutingDad

"I do have a question - what do you all use for filling the narrow spaces between rails?  Some kind of dirt with a little bit of grass or something seems right. Was looking at Brennan's dirt ???"

A good railroad mainline will NOT have dirt between the rails. That is a major no no. They even remove ballast and clean it to get rid of the dirt. It holds water which freezes and also makes for moving rails. Only place you will find dirt between the rails are on little used sidings.

You are running a top line class I railroad do not cheap out and put dirt between the rails use Ballast!

Curtis

@RSJB18 posted:

Jay- I have some existing backdrop prints on the wall that I printed from a website on 11X17 cardstock paper. I will piece them together as best as possible. This is not a permanent layout so real backdrops will wait till the next one. This does the job to cover the bare walls since the CEO frowned upon my suggestion to paint the walls blue. I don't have the clearance for 3D building flats either.

You can see the seam in this photo. The skyline works OK but the landscape doesn't.

Thanks- Bob

HA! I did a spit take at " This does the job to cover the bare walls since the CEO frowned upon my suggestion to paint the walls blue. I don't have the clearance for 3D building flats either."

(Thus, the blank wall behind EWE Mountain) we can relate, yes, (the work order for the wall tunnel between rooms has been tabled... exploratory error may come shortly along with asking forgiveness with an "I thought a wall switch could be located here, where the GRANDKID hit a hole in the sheetrock with a, um, my hammer, on accident , um i can make it look better"

YOU have splendid humor sir, thanks for the post, oh, and the ballast and weeds to the tunnel looks

great too!

o!

Hey Hon, Can I paint the wall to look like a tall mountain backgound  with Blue sky and clouds... umm no?.. nevermind

@ScoutingDad posted:

Spent too much on it, but at this point its either spend it on a car, golf or trains. I'll pick the trains at this point - its for the grand kids of course.

Spend it on a car- I just bought a new one in November. Check

Spend it on golf- soon....... Check

Spend it on trains- Check Check

I like the way you think! Nice loco BTW.

Bob

I put up the new backdrop pix last night and did some more ground cover. I'm in the home stretch now.
Next steps are to get the lights wired and then I can put the high line back together. I will ballast the curve too.

MAYBE I will be able to run trains by the end of the weekend.

I placed a bunch of WS clump foliage and lichen along the wall.

I need a couple more trees to hide that seam a little.

@CurtisH posted:

ScoutingDad

"I do have a question - what do you all use for filling the narrow spaces between rails?  Some kind of dirt with a little bit of grass or something seems right. Was looking at Brennan's dirt ???"

A good railroad mainline will NOT have dirt between the rails. That is a major no no. They even remove ballast and clean it to get rid of the dirt. It holds water which freezes and also makes for moving rails. Only place you will find dirt between the rails are on little used sidings.

You are running a top line class I railroad do not cheap out and put dirt between the rails use Ballast!

Curtis

CurtisH and all, sorry my wording was not the best. I was referring not to the areas between the rails, which I will ballast, but area between the tracks which in my case is only a couple of inches at best. Just filling the entire area with ballast does not look right. I live in central Illinois which has great farming soil but it is not really useful as "dirt" for a layout. I have laid in ground foam but I think the space should have only sparse vegetation. Hence my question.

Jeff, I found a recent publication (2020) that provided me with additional insights and things I would not have considered. “Realistic Layouts, Use The Art of Illusion Like a Pro”, by CJ Riley.  
With his photo examples, real and model, he points out various details that I would not have picked up on. Now, when looking at scenes, I attempt to look beyond what my eyes immediately focus upon for the additional detail. There is an excellent chapter on backdrops. He also provides a lot of insights on how to do things. At the end of each chapter he lists learning points. I look at them before reading the chapter and then when I finish. It’s been very helpful.

Hi Jay, thanks for the note on Riley's book. I got it for Christmas. It is really helpful for planning and thinking about scenes - what looks right and what doesn't. I have several of the Kalmbach modeling books and videos. At this point I am finding their modeling and painting series helpful.

I don't have the local hobby shops around me to browse for various potential materials. Closest good one is about 100 miles away, I'll detour over if I am up that way and have time. Otherwise,  I have to order everything sight unseen - photos are not much help in gauging size - hence my ask on what materials people are using.    Jeff

I understand, and with what you have accomplished so far, it will be a creative masterpiece.

Scoutingdad

LOL Now I am laughing like crazy as that makes a lot more sense. I did some of mine with grass dirt and low foliage. My Scenery manager (my wife) adjusted it with some purple and yellow and orange so it looks like it has wild flowers in it. I must admit I pay attention to the real railroads and she did an excellent job imitating them.

Curtis