Z750 power source

Not recommended. Many Z750s are 21 or 24V output, where the Z500 controller is designed for the 18V Z500 brick.

Also, the components are scaled back current wise in the Z500 controller.

Z750 bricks are not ideal compared to Z500 or Z1000 bricks- again because of 18V VS 21 or 24V.

1) Is the 750 controller different than the 1000 controller? I have several of each brick and several of each controller, neither is marked and the original boxes long ago disappeared?

2) Is the Z500 controller identified with a different label than the two above controllers?

I know the 750 came in different outputs and not accessory outlet, and the 1000 did have acc.

Thanks, Greg

@cngw posted:

1) Is the 750 controller different than the 1000 controller? I have several of each brick and several of each controller, neither is marked and the original boxes long ago disappeared?

2) Is the Z500 controller identified with a different label than the two above controllers?

I know the 750 came in different outputs and not accessory outlet, and the 1000 did have acc.

Thanks, Greg

Yes, the older Z500 and especially the Z750 controllers were different. This is why on the controller they are labeled and really only should be used with that brick.

The Z500 is limited in how much current it can safely handle- hence the lower rated 500 brick at 50Watts.

The Z750 was designed around the higher input voltage.

Later- MTH replaced the series with the MTH Zcontroller intended to be used with the Z1000 brick and included in Z1000 sets. This is the newer style and semi-universal with the noted exception of 750 bricks.

https://mthtrains.com/sites/de...ction/30as16048i.pdf

This can be used with Z500 bricks since it's just less current and the same 18V output as a Z1000 brick.

In general- I do not recommend using the Z750 brick or controller with anything other than each other since they are designed around the 21-24V voltage specifically known in the Z-750 bricks.

Using a Z-750 labeled controller on an 18V brick (Z500 or Z1000) may result in a slightly lower than 18V maximum track voltage because the Z750 controller was designed around the higher 21-24V input. So again, this combination of an 18V source brick, and Z750- controller may lead to complaints.

The opposite is also true- using a Z controller with a Z-750 brick  (21-24V) may lead to high track voltages than is outside of the 19V maximum allowed for some products.

Hi,

Both the controllers and the bricks are labeled as Z-750.

I substituted a Z-750 brick on an MRC 80 Watt Throttlepack Controller which was under powered and it worked just fine with the MRC as a head unit.  Max output was less than what it said on the brick when hooked up with the MRC conroller.

Frankly, if you have both give it a try and measure it.  If the max is too high just fashion some sort of limiter on the handle.

John

No matter the power pack, 750 or 1000, how many of us on here, that are not using DCS or some command system, actually open the controller ALL the way up to put max voltage (whether 18/v or 30V) to the track/engine ??  That is what really matters.

I unhooked my DCS leads to my outer loop yesterday, so I could run a LocoSound, and a PS1 4-6-4 steamer, they had not been run in 12 years.  Either one pulled 13 PW cars (one engine at a time) around and never did the handle of the Z controller (I had a Z1000 brick to it)  get past the 2 o'clock position.... and that was with one set of feed wires to the 8' X 17' loop. Yes they slowed down on the far turn, but still pulled around it. I should have measured the track voltage just to see how much they were using.

I plan on running my 1947 GG1 and my 226E today with the same setup...but I am betting that neither one will be able to pull that many cars in the consist, OR require more power/throttle position that what the MTH needed. (Before anyone comments that I could have run them with CH1 of the TIU, I know but I opted not to.)

Greg