can a nice postwar Lionel layout fit in 3x7 space

I would say it is doable. Mark off a 3x7 spot on the floor, and play with a track design.

I actualy have the table/benchwork built as I was just starting to aquire N scale stuff to do a Chicago layout.  So I can play with some track, but I dont have much of my O gauge track left.  I need to get more track and a couple of 022 turnouts.  I am digging out my books on Lionel operating acc to see what I would like to get, the magnetic crane is one of them.    Mike

Mike,

Install a oval on your 3'x 7' space. This way, you will know exactly what space you have left for buildings and such.  Have fun. Merry Christmas.

Jimmy

I agree with the others---give it a go.  You'd be surprised what you can fit.  Check out the doorway layouts on this site for inspiration:

http://thortrains.net/

--Greg

I still have an O27 figure-8 layout on a 30"x 79" door and I still have fun with it. A figure-8 is more interesting than an oval IMO, plus it keeps most of the track away from the table edges. The crossing in the center creates an interesting feature which can be imagined as two different railroads. My O27 end curves have O54 'easements' for improved appearance and operation. I custom-built a 67-degree crossing to make it fit the space. A similar arrangement could be done with O31 in slightly more space.

I have some ideas to improve on this with minimal additional space.

This is a nice layout.  I had a 30 x 72 inch layout when I was a kid - the basic oval though.  I think you are correct about the figure eight being more interesting.  Nice idea on the 67 degree crossing: make the part to fit the layout, not the other way around!. 

That is a very nice layout, Ace...thanks for posting pictures.

--Greg

custom-built a 67-degree crossing to make it fit the space.

Do you have any pictures or details on how you accomplished this?

I've thought about using a crossing on a curve, but couldn't think of a way to start.

Than,s,  Joe

Joe, my custom-made crossing is simply a hunk of plastic the same thickness as the height of my O27 track, with the flangeways cut on a radial-arm saw. The adjoining pieces of straight track butt up to the plastic crossing piece. It has performed reliably for years.

As a point of interest, the crossing material is from a phenolic liner for the side bearings of a freight car truck, pieces of which I picked up at a derailment site. Authentic railroad materials!

Here's a picture of the trackplan I am using on my Marx layout. It would measure

31" x 61" in O gauge.

J White

Neat diamonds Ace, excellent reuse of material.  Definalty gives me some ideas.  Right now I am seeing what I am come up with for a second locomotive.  Looking for a nice early 675 set, 671 set or, even though it doesnt fit the PRR theme, a 2333 ATSF F3  AA locomotive pair.   I will probably see what I can do with track tomorrow while we are dealing with a winter storm.  When I am not out on the tractor plowing, I will work on the layout ideas.    Mike

A bit over 7 feet long, this has a junction with crossing as a focal point. O31 curves. 

Minimum-size double oval with crossovers and 'easements'.

Check out this site : http://www.thortrains.net/marx/drlaydex.html

Lots of door-plan layouts in there. I have a door to use one of these plans on.

Peter

Hey Ace, that crossing piece looks very interesting. Does the train hesitate when it goes through the intersection? It looks like there is no conductivity in that crossing. Perhaps the momentum of the train drives it through.

Check out the 'Layout on a Door' contest in OGR from last year....I think. They were 3x6.5 and many were GREAT!!!

Can you provide a link for that? I found a layout contest thread for last season which specified up to 50 square feet for layout size. The winning entry had tight trolley curves. There are lots of good photos but not actually track plans.

https://ogrforum.com/d...5514336606981/page/1

It looks like rules for the next small layout contest will be announced in January 2013 ?

https://ogrforum.com/d...1865141758274/page/2

Originally Posted by Ace:

Hey Ace, that crossing piece looks very interesting. Does the train hesitate when it goes through the intersection? It looks like there is no conductivity in that crossing. Perhaps the momentum of the train drives it through.

This is typical construction for many conventional 3-rail crossings so that the center-rail pickups won't short on the running rails. There are no problems with any loco that has at least 4 metal wheels and 2 center-rail pickups spaced at least a couple inches apart. It's a shorter electrical gap than a typical 45-degree crossing.

Figure eight with spur and "interchange track" provides some switching opportunities to vary train consists. Conventional 3-rail track with O31 and O54 curves, fits on a 3'x 7' table. On a 4'x 8' you could fit another oval around the outside. 

Here is what I build so far, I did change the front turnouts so that the track goes straight across to bypass the crossover, smoother running.  I have added the postwar version of the 1666 to my short list since its basicly a slightly larger version of my Dad's engine.  The crossover I am using is a Lionel prewar O gauge version, track is all O with O31 curves and 022 turnouts, manual in the front.  I will get remote control for the ones that will be on the back side of the layout in the future.  Now the debate in my mind on which engine to get so I am not running Dad's so much.  It needs to go in the shop to deal with its front driver getting loose on the axle.  Gonna try a good degreasing and JB weld since nobody reproduces the drivers for this engine's, 1655/1656, drive system.    Mike

custom-made crossing is simply a hunk of plastic the same thickness as the height of my O27 track, with the flangeways cut on a radial-arm saw. The adjoining pieces of straight track butt up to the plastic crossing piece.

I'm so tempted now to try it.

I was worried (among other things) about joining the outside rails at the corners (see the production 45deg), but see that you just butted them up to the center block.

Without access to a rail wreck, does anyone have suggestions for starting plastic to use.  

And was it hard to mill your piece to the correct thickness (height)?

Thanks for posting the picture!

  --Joe

I started with a piece of plastic/phenolic material that was already close to the desired thickness. I might have shimmed it up slightly with cardboard underneath.

I used material on hand from my junk pile collection. I guess other non-conductive materials could be used depending on whatever you can find locally?

I saw the same idea used on an extensive 7.5" gauge live steam railway, where a custom crossing was made by machining flangeways into a solid aluminum plate maybe 1" thick. I don't think that method of construction was repeated due to cost of material.