Disassemble DZ-2500 Swicth machine - may have ballast in it - Solved by removing 2 screws

Plastic case Screwed down TOO TIGHT to the extended ties? I know that will bind up a "2500" at times.

I never get my ballast too close to the machine and tend to install the ballast stone a piece at a time with a 50/50 mix of glue when I get to a switch. Never get the stone near the plastic box or linkage when applying the ballast "in bulk".

Donald 

3rail 2 posted:

Plastic case Screwed down TOO TIGHT to the extended ties? I know that will bind up a "2500" at times.

I never get my ballast too close to the machine and tend to install the ballast stone a piece at a time with a 50/50 mix of glue when I get to a switch. Never get the stone near the plastic box or linkage when applying the ballast "in bulk".

Donald 

Thanks for your response.  Can't put the toothpaste back in the tube.  Do you know how to disassemble the switch?  Anyone else?

I am at work right now...not sure the cases actually come apart. I would try to insert a small flathead screwdriver into the opening at the actuator bar and give it a little twist to see if the plastic box will separate. I always have a few extras on hand that I swap out if the DZ2500 causes me too many problems.

Just a thought. I know Dennis is very helpful with any problems associated with his products and usually will replace a faulty item if it goes bad.

I can look tonight when  I get home. I have dozens of them on my layout and sometimes they do not want to cooperate without some finagling. I keep the switch points and moving parts on the switch well lubricated with Wahl's clipper oil. I also run some oil on top of the wood ties (Ross switches) where the points slide across.

For operation, I actually prefer the DZ1000 which operate a lot better. However, they are too big for my taste and will interfere with some of my locomotives.

Donald

3rail 2 posted:

I am at work right now...not sure the cases actually come apart. I would try to insert a small flathead screwdriver into the opening at the actuator bar and give it a little twist to see if the plastic box will separate. I always have a few extras on hand that I swap out if the DZ2500 causes me too many problems.

Just a thought. I know Dennis is very helpful with any problems associated with his products and usually will replace a faulty item if it goes bad.

I can look tonight when  I get home. I have dozens of them on my layout and sometimes they do not want to cooperate without some finagling. I keep the switch points and moving parts on the switch well lubricated with Wahl's clipper oil. I also run some oil on top of the wood ties (Ross switches) where the points slide across.

For operation, I actually prefer the DZ1000 which operate a lot better. However, they are too big for my taste and will interfere with some of my locomotives.

Donald

Thanks for your offer.  2 screws at the bottom of the machine.  Should be no problem.