Great Northern railway

Signals fixed.

Replaced the flashing yellow LED in the 8 double head signals plus 3 other signals that had defective LED's.

Used a hobby drill press to drill out the old LED's starting at 1/16" bit, then 3/32" and, finally, an 1/8" bit.  Had to move the wires to one side before drilling out the LED's from the front.  

Installed two more double head signals. 

One at Glacier.

The other at Shelby; in the non sceniced area of the laundry room but still needs block control at a turnout. 

Still have two places to install signals.

The tracks leading into Seattle's yards.

A 'crossover' still needs two more double mast signals.

Sam great work! I don't know how you do it, but its just amazing!

I have to agree with Mike. It is amazing, and pretzels too. 

Thanks, guys. 

It's been a lot of fun (and work) installing the signals.  Pretty cool to run the train and see signals ahead and see them change color as the train passes.  Going to be a real help to the engineers as I won't have to talk to them about how far to go and where to stop.  They can just look at the signal and know what to do.  

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Train direction indicators.

Using JMRI logix, we, 'we' being mostly Joe, set up logic to know which way a train is moving and put out an  '<--EAST' post on the track plan.  First stage, so far.  Ran out of time, tonight, but have to make the post move with the train and also give it color or contrast so it's easily seen.

As the train went from block 102 to 200.....

the post '<--EAST' showed on the track plan.  

Track plan.

We spent the evening making the track plan 'pretty'.

Looks more prototype with the black background.  Used different colors for cities, etc. 

Pretty cool: we went into the JMRI software and made multiple changes to save time versus doing individual updates via the 'normal' methods.  

During the day, I installed two new 'foundations' for 2 more signals at 'Marias pass'.

Looks like the rest of the double mast signals should be in next week of which I need to install at least 7 on the layout.

Three items today:

New delivery:

New LED warm white single and double lighted lamps.

Got 60 of the single lamps.  Will be used for ore dock. 

And 20 of the 'double' lamps.  Will be used for passenger station.

Track plan updated via RR-cirkits logic using LCC to indicate direction of train travel. 

Joe got the logic done for the first few blocks.

Train in red block...

As the train enters the next block, posted below the block in red is '<--EAST'.

A train coming from the other block in red....

The entered red block now has posted 'WEST-->'.

Got back to getting the 'bugs' out of the new circuit breaker (CB) going to the Seattle's turntable (TT) area and incoming tracks.

I routed a set of wires directly from the CB to two terminal strips and routed all the DCC power through the new CB to the TT and incoming tracks and cut off the main bare 12 gauge ground wire that was going to the TT.

Took some crawling around under the layout but all appears to be working properly, this time!  I shorted out each CB and it didn't affect the other CB, which was happening, previously. Now, any shorts in the TT area won't affect the switcher on the other end of the yard nor trains departing or incoming before the escape tracks. 

Day was split in half.

The 'company' can now hire for the night shift!

Took about half a day to install about half the pole lamps on the ore dock.

Used an inexpensive old DC power pack that can be picked up at train shows for 10 bucks and a woodland plug and play 'controller'.  I like the 'controller' as it has four ports for lights and a variable 'pot' for each port.  I ran one string of lights on one port installing them with parallel connections.

All the wires run inside the bins so they won't be seen.

The second half of the day, Joe came over to code the 'directional' code to the track plan shows which way the train is moving.  A lot of logic involved: single track to single track isn't bad but passing tracks need logic for each track entering the single track plus whether going east or west.  A logic table was set up to help inputting the correct data.

The track plan, movement right to left is East.

The switcher in the yard is, presently, triggering the red occupied drill track/ore dock.

Directional coding has 6 blocks done, so far.

Triggering the sensors via the mouse to test (later, did an engine test).  As the train enters the next block, the block turns red and the red 'EAST' or 'WEST' indicators come on indicating which way the train is moving. 

Normal passing is on the right but the signals and directional coding allows for any path taken.

In this case, the train left Seattle and moving towards Skykomish.

The train enters cascade tunnel's two blocks and then arrives at Tye. This is what has been done, so far. 

When a train is operated, the blocks behind it turn back to white.  These pictures are via the mouse, testing the code.  The mouse can, also, be used to turn the block back to white. 

Track plan updates:

No postings, yesterday: fixed garage door opener, bathroom light and new sump pump for daughter's house.  Monday's are, usually, outings with daughter but 'repairs' came first!

Today: morning: did taxes for state and Federal.  Get that stuff 'out of the way'.

Last half of the day, I, believe it or not, did some updates to the track plan!

Reversed the interchange loop so it is going EAST, which is to the left.  Had to add new turnouts, track segments, move signals, sensors, etc.  All seems to be working.  Now, the track plan reflects how one sees the layout when operating a train. 

Also, I put in directional EAST/WEST for several blocks: most appear working and one isn't.  Will have to wait until Joe comes over and fix that!

Tomorrow and, maybe tonight, I'll get back to installing the LED lamps on the ore dock.

Ore dock lights completed.

Finished the other side.

Added more to the lead track.  Need to complete the scenery!

Put the spare woodland LED in the tower.  The woodland LED's and lamp LED's don't 'like to play together' as the woodland LED goes dark with the lamp's connected in parallel. I put the woodland on a different outlet of the 4 provided.

Cat 5 is nice for hooking up the LED's.  16 bucks for 150' from HD: strip the outer sheathing and have lots of lite gauge wire for the low current LED's.  With 8 wires bundled, that gives a total 1200' of wire.

Signal bridge build and more logic for direction of travel.

The signal head kits ordered came in so the bridge signal can be built.

The signal bridge already has tabs to hold the signal poles so I cut some 3/32" brass tubing and resistance soldered it to the bridge. 

Next, I used the black 3 signal cover to hold the 3 LED's in place while I soldered the anode side to the pole.  One side of the LED will be all grounded so many wires will be saved.

The LED's soldered on one side to the brass pole.

At which time, Joe came over so we did some more coding.

The remaining blocks leading to St. Paul's yard and the interchange needed to be coded for 'direction of travel' indicators.

Tapping into RR-circkts tower CB's, we use the 32 logic events available.

The picture shows logic for block 700 leading into one of the interchange tracks called IX1 (I=interchange, X=exit track, 1 for block 901).

The 'group function' is labeled 'ladder track'.

If variable #1 is true, ie: block 901 (02.01.57.00.00.3D.00.36 :taken from the config files) is true.

Then set variable #1 false, ie increment address by one, 02.01.57.00.00.3D.00.37.

Logic function: 

if V1 and then V2 -> true, ie is block 901 on then make variable #2 true block 700  (02.01.57.00.00.3D.00.12) and variable #2 false (02.01.57.00.00.3D.00.13).

A change to true with interval (immediately) set generate the following events (this logics address) 02.01.57.00.00.3D.01.34

The logic address (02.01.57.00.00.3D.01.34)  is inputted into the sensors table with this event labeled as SD700DX1.

What we're doing is, basically; if block 1 is occupied, if next block is occupied, put out a 'sign' on the track plan indicating either 'east' or 'west'.

reconfig tables where logic is found.

More logic needs to be done (later) to implement this event. 

My time has only been a few weeks on this so my descriptions, etc may not be exactly correct.

Signal bridge build:

Adding 3 way signals to a signal bridge.

Some signal poles needed to be soldered to the bridge.

I cut some 3/32" brass tubing 1.5" long.  I find a razor saw to begin the cut, then a nipper to score the cut and, finally, 'bend and break'.  A little filing is always needed.

A resistance soldering was used to secure the poles to the bridge and with proper 'heat sinks'. 

The 3 light signal kits came in.  The anode side was soldered to the pole using the black plastic face to hold the led's in proper position and also a 'heat sink' on the LED's while using a weller soldering station iron.

The LED leads are soft metal so I had a few that just melted while trying to solder them to the brass pole.  Again, using a 'heat sink' another piece was soldered to the stub left next to the LED. 

Each 3 light set tested after each install. 

LED's installed.  Now to wait for the 32 gauge colored wire to arrive.

The bridge will be protecting a double crossover leading into Seattle plus the drill track/ore dock track. 

mmm, more places that some scenery work needs to be done. 

Scenery and more track plan direction.

Something I haven't done for 30 years (no, not that!).

Scenery.

Bob came over several weeks ago and did some scenery enhancements. His efforts got me motivated to get some scenery done.  The weathering after 30 years is not the kind I want on the scenery! 

Tools of the trade:

india ink in alcohol.

Wood glue 1/3 to water 2/3's.

sprayer with alcohol.

Seattle's yard entrance was looking pretty sad so the diluted india ink was, first, applied to weather up the ties, etc. since the ties are real wood but had the original walnut color added to them some 40 years ago. 

Dark ballast added to the yard leads with lighter ballast indicating the beginning of the mainline. A brush was used to spread the ballast evenly around the ties.  The sprayer with alcohol was, initially, misted over the ballast to hold it in place and then a thicker spray was added to soak all the ballast.  Then, the watered down wood glue was applied over the entire area except around the switch points. 

The same procedure was done with the ground foam.

The lead to the ore dock also got some enhancements. 

Roundhouse area had some bare spots. 

Added the diluted india ink to the rocks.  Next, some vegetation. 

Track plan direction indicators.

Joe came over and, after eating barbecue ribs, we worked on the 'indicators'.

Last post showed the config file construction.

This is the logix part for 'train direction' indicators.

The B700 direction  line is edited (right) giving the B700 logix (left).

Sensor SD700E is made active . Edit 'Sensor SD700E state' line gives the below 'popup' to edit. 

The bottom of the table has the rest of the logic: set 'B700 direction' to '<-EAST'.

This is the logic to turn on the 'track direction indicator' from tracks from the west, of which there are three (these are the interchange tracks) that feed block 700.

Once the train leaves the block, this logic turns off the 'direction indicator'.

Here's testing going from the interchange tracks to block 700.

Last item is the interchange tracks getting 'directional' indicators.

When double mast signals arrive plus colored wire for the signal bridge, those signals will be inputted into the 'system'.

We're almost done

Impressive:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YkhDEnRkzj4

A video of the Great Northern railway track plan that demonstrates two trains, one going East (from Seattle) and one going West (from interchange loop). Each block hi-lighted in RED with the direction indicated below the block, IE, 'EAST' or 'WEST'. The two trains pass each other at Tye siding and continue to their destinations. This procedure uses JMRI and LCC (RR-circkts) technology.

We used Joe's rdc type engines that go 99 MPH so the 400' mainline is covered in a relatively short time.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

Sam, that looks great! Way more then anything I would ever do! But it sure is a great tool! You really go beyond many others! Nice work!

Thanks Mike.  Joe was the inspiration on setting all this up.

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Ross train show.

Only about 20 miles away.

An old school that has been turned into a community center.

On the 2nd floor there are five different railroad clubs.

HO:

Joe built this motorized lift bridge.

three railers. 

HO:

Portable HO.

Another HO.

I thought there was an N scale but didn't see any!

Americana:

Very nice stone arch bridge and steel bridges in town of Hamilton, Ohio.

Late 1800's court house.

War memorial.

Nice old buildings that didn't get torn down in the 70's due to 'modernization'! 

This guy's going to need a little help getting out of that sand pit!

Trip to Greenville, Ohio train show. 65 miles.

After spending 8-15 hour days in the basement for the last 5 weeks, I needed to 'get out'.

Some mini train layouts.

Portable club layout.

These old Lionel service test systems are kind of rare: asking $650.

I got one of these free about 35 years ago.  Asking $175.

Pretty neat: NYC passenger step.  Asking $350.

Took the backroads rt 127 to Greenville.

A mainline parallels the road for a few miles.

A nice stone arch bridge.

There's one place where one can park along the side of the track. 

A fellow modeler said this is a C&O caboose (at least that's what I remember from a year ago!).  Should have stopped and got more pictures of it.  Located in Eaton, Ohio.

How to 'put in' 80 feet of scenery in less than a week!    

I've got 80' of rock to cover so a 'quick' way of installing ground foam was needed.

These rock walls were done 40 years ago: 40 years ago, they wouldn't have any vegetation.  Now, they should.  

I'm using some fiberfill 8 oz from Putnam company which is black polyester fibers. (19441821808).  Several years ago, a local NMRA member got a bunch of this and I bought several bags.  Glad I did since I'm down to my last bag.

I'm using woodworking glue to attach the fibers to the rock crevices. 

I got the fiber into all the crevices. 

Here's part of what I, initially, did to test it out.  I use cheap hair spray from walbox and use 6 different ground foam colors.

Some of the rock walls are done.

After the glue was dry, I heavily sprayed the fiber with hair spray and sprinkled on the first color. I used a piece of light weight cardboard under each 'bush' to catch the foam and blow it onto the sides of the fibers.   I used alcohol in a spray bottle to mist down the first color of ground foam and then applied more hair spray and another color of foam.  Another alcohol misted and more spray and then 3-4 light applications of different colors of foam.  Finally, a alcohol mist and more hair spray.  The alcohol wets down the foam so it doesn't 'fly all over' when hit with the hair spray.  

This is the nasty area where I had to rip out the scenery several years ago to put in a new water main.  (this is the 'after' picture; below is a 'before' picture).

Still have to do these areas:

Logging railroad.

Here's the 'before' picture. 

Ran out of hair spray so had to buy 12 more cans!  That should allow me to finish up the 80' of rock cliffs.

After the foliage, I'll need conifers, and lots of them.  For what China sells them for I ordered 410 pine trees that vary from 2" to 5".  The larger ones, I'll make myself using skewers and furnace filter material, etc. 

Foliage done around Seattle. 

New deliveries.

More single head and double head signals arrived, today. 

Planted a few conifer trees.

Used some of the materials I used a few years ago when making 18" pine trees.

Cut the furnace filter into squares, rip them apart to make them thin and push them onto the 'trunks'. 

Used the cheap hair spray again and sprinkled dark green foam from the bottom and some lighter green from the top.

Didn't even have to cut the corners off as the foam fills in the edges.  Being on a steep rock face, the trees have to be very narrow.  Three 12" and two 6" trees were made to insure they fit on the rock face.  Both are limited to where there is a large rock outcropping.   When all the small 2"-5" trees arrive, those will fill in the 'voids'.

The 12" needed drilling into the rock but the 6" works well by just sticking the trunk into the 'brush' as it's about an inch thick in places.

A picture will always let you know if you've got a crooked tree!

Double masted signals.

Thought I'd paint a couple so they look like the rest of the signals.  Masked off the signal heads and used some Rustoleum silver.  Usually, not a good idea to paint small objects with a rattle can due to limited volume control but I kept the can about 12" away and did 'quick shots'.  The solvent base paint dried fast.  

Still needs the feed wires but dry fitted them at the crossover to see if they fit, etc.

Last week, I took a small paint brush and cleaned off the cobwebs on the catenary.  I'm sure I didn't them all but it's a 'start'.  Also, want to string some green wire on the telephone poles.  Need a location that's easy to see yet giant hands will not be 'near'. 

More tree making.

For the 12" trees to be narrow, I started with 1.5" squares, then to 1" and some leftovers from when I made the 18" trees (at the time, I thought it stupid to save such scraps!).  The 6" trees started with 1" squares. 

Pull apart the furnace filter into thin layers.

Don't get fancy, these are trees, not a building (and definitely not a steam engine).  When you're planting hundreds of trees, you don't get @nal over lots of details.  Doing a diorama, with just several trees, do your thing. 

Before foam applied:

The two foliage types/colors I used.  One applied to the tree upside down and the other, upright. 

Cheap plastic paint trays to recycle the foam. 

Lots of hair spray applied from the top and bottom.  I found out that my carbon monoxide detector doesn't like all the vapors from the hair spray especially when you use several cans in a day!

I made five 12" and six 6" trees in less than an hour.  If you like to watch TV, you can do two mindless things at once!

After foam applied.

A little drilling into the rocks makes quick 'plantings'.

Looks a 'little better' than before!

Rock cliffs on the logging side.

For me, I found it easiest to get the foam on the sides and bottom of the fibers by pushing light cardboard against the fibers with foam on the cardboard. 

First stage: fibers glued to rock face. 

First layer of foam applied.  Alcohol and then hair spray to seal it plus allow next 4 layers of different colored foam to be applied.

Final 4 colors of foam applied then more alcohol to hold the foam down while more hairspray is used to seal the 'whole thing'.  

Upper logging area done.

Logging switch back area done.

Which includes Skykomish.

The valley area of the logging railroad: The last area to be finished.

Then onto more tree making!

Rock cliff underbrush finally done.

Eight hours of work, today, finished up the rocks around the valley of the logging railroad.

Conifers are next. 

Steam engines being restored:

https://steamengineresource.we...-being-restored.html

More tree making.

I forgot to mention that the backing on the furnace filter has to be removed.

I soak the tree heavily with the hair spray and lightly shake it over the trash can to remove any excess.

When recycled, surprising how little foam is used.  This is what's left after doing sixteen 12" trees and thirteen 6" trees. 

Before.

After one hour

After two hours.

The 6" and 12" will enhance my 18" conifers. 

Bad new/good news.

Bad news 1:

Had to press extra hard with the briteboy to clean the hair spray off the tracks and then run my old track cleaning car to insure 'all is good'.

Bad news 2:

Layouts 'eat' trees like popcorn.  Never have too many and it looks like you didn't add any!

Good news:

Making the trees a 'scale' size means they take up more space so fewer are needed!

A very old track cleaning car, but effective.  Some enamel reducer added to the pad every 50', or so.

Want to add some pole lamps along that road. Same ones I used on the ore dock.

Not a whole lot of room along the rock edges next to the track.  Some 'trimming' had to be done for train movement.  

This tree is lonely: will have to add a few more after I make them.

Holes were drilled for all trunks and dry fitted so they can be removed for track cleaning, etc. 

Some of the bottom 'branches' were square but easy to remedy with some small tin snips. 

New delivery.

Ordered a bunch of trees and thought they were all coming from China but these were in the 'states' (which they, probably, got from China!).

Each pack has 40 trees from 2" to 5".  I has hoping they were wire trunks so I can bend them for inserting into the rock cliffs.  Will probably use the hair spray and add some more 'turf' to them.  They already have 'turf' on them so a 'good thing'.

Got three packs so 120 trees should help fill in the 'voids' around the larger trees.

63 bucks (including shipping) for 120 trees: I can't make them that cheap, not counting time which, at my age, I need to reserve for 'better things'.  With train and planes, I've got enough projects to keep me busy until I croak.

WOW, My view of bottle brush pine trees has completely changed.

When I first got them, I didn't even look closely at them and figured I'd need to 'dress them up.  They have different limb lengths and foam covered.

Filling in the voids of my larger 6" and 12" conifers, the 120 trees covered about 20' of rock face.

I used a 1/16" bit to drill holes and a vacuum cleaner next to the bit to get the plaster dust.  With wire trunks, they can be bent to match the steep cliffs. 

27 more trees.

Eleven 12" and sixteen 6".  

The 12" uses about 4 squares of furnace filter and the 6" use about 3 squares.  Looks like one furnace filter will do about 100 of these size trees. 

Added the 27 trees to the layout.

Added a couple more to that one lone tree (reminds me of the 'twin pines' shopping mall!).

Some around the freight station.

A few at the cut in the hill.  MMM: just noticed that I missed adding ground foam to some of the 'bushes'!

The rest filled in the logging area.  Bought another 120 of those 'bottle brush' pine trees to fill in the voids around the logging area. 

NMRA MCR Div 7 spring train show.   

A one day event.  Hosted in my 'back yard', almost. 

I bought a few items.

Some more fiberfill for any future trees, some prairie grass, some logs (twigs), a couple GN books and 19 'action' figures plus some free old trains mags .

Can always use nicely painted people!

New delivery:

Lots of cool stuff arrived.  The seller that has the signals that I purchased has several hundred items that are sold so I went through the list and bought stuff that I 'needed'!

Well protected: these are the boxes within the shipping box.  The bottom cantilever bridge is protected by thin plywood.

Bought spare signals with all the LED's needed for them.

Hey, the GN people need a place to sit!

And, tell what time it is: of course only correct twice a day but will be able to see it in the dark!

Some hanging shaded lamps.

Some goose neck lamps (good over doors).  I was trying to make these but this is a much easier 'route'.

Some spare signals.  In this cottage industry never assume that item will be there, next year!

Cantilever bridge needed at Glacier park siding where one side is a cliff and the two tracks are a scale distance from each other and doesn't allow a signal. 

Lots of wire to get my 3 track signal bridge operational. 

Separate order: never have too many terminal strips. 

A few 'smokers':

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

Inspiration from the prototype:   

Prototype:

BEFORE:

GNRW MAINTENANCE CREW:

AFTER:

45 years ago, when I was building this layout, raising a family of 5 on one income, one makes compromises on layout construction.  Tunnels was one of them.  Finally, updated.  Got about 4 more to do.  The outside looks good, too bad I can't do anything about the interior!

Prototype:

At least I got one tunnel 'right'!

Columbia river basin (BNSF): 

Prototype:

Columbia river basin: farther up the river away from the ocean.

Reasonable facsimile:   

BNSF: didn't know such a bridge existed!

          looking GREAT Sam !!!

Thanks, Brian.

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Two more tunnels BEFORE/AFTER.

These two were real 'eye sores' but they are about 10' back from the edge of layout so not as well noticeable. 

BEFORE:

AFTER:

All the portals are cast plaster. I had to cut the 'wall side' edge for the correct alignment. A band saw made quick work of the 'cutting'.

Fortunately, I have an access hole to get to that area of the layout as it is way behind the Seattle's yard plus Tye.

There's another portal to the left in the picture that still needs to be done.  Fortunately, it is not, easily, viewed from the isle but needs to be done for any future videos (things we didn't have to worry about in the 80').

The two portals now makes for a nice view whereas, previously, one didn't notice the tunnels (usually).  This will also make any future video camera viewing from the train much more presentable. Still, will have to eliminate any interior view shots, with a few exceptions. 

Wiring the bridge signal masts.

One set (two 3-light signals) wired.

I'm using one 1/16" diameter heat shrink tubing for each set of lights.  The heat shrink tubing will 1) protect the wires and 2) look like metal conduit when the structure is painted silver.  The wires were routed under the walkway and then soldered to their respective LED's.

There are two heat shrink tubing in one end and three in this end of the bridge signal.

I want to keep each two set of signal wires as one group so the four corners are for this purpose and the one heat shrink tubing down the center is for the two single masts.  I'm figuring this will make any diagnostics in the future a lot simpler. 

No black wire will be needed in the structure since the anode side is grounded to the brass frame, thus only one black wire needs to be soldered under the 'cement' supports. 

Some videos a friend found on BNSF and UP:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2m-o0hoXO3M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8Z0bU-cxBo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSTkX7yAY0I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=523mJGNPiH0&t=439s

Signal bridge (cont)  

All the wires routed through the heat shrink tubing and soldered to the LED's.  With 30 wires (plus black) I'm glad I routed each signal as a set. 

Some scalecoat silver used.  The black signal 'faces' were masked.  With enough resistance to hold the 'faces' to the LED's, I made them all removable. 

The airbrush allowed a nice fine application of paint.

Dry fit on the GNRW.  Still need to solder some cat 5 wire from the signal to the signal LCC boards.  Some grey used for the 'cement' bases.

Signal bridge and more trees.

Got all the cat 5 wires connected up to each signal set.  That was a lot of work!

Dry fitted.  Next, connect up to the Signal-LCC.

120 more 'bottle brush' trees arrived