Instructions for Weaver 2-rail RS-3?

I have several of these locomotives, which were real game-changers in the world of 2-Rail O-Scale when introduced.  Unfortunately, they did not come with an owner instruction booklet, only a side and end view elevation drawing which included a list of then-current spare parts one could order.  They are fairly easy to take apart, and, if needed, you may make notes as you go for future reference.  I've had mine apart down to the smallest component, even doing a complete tear-down of the trucks to replace broken gears and/or change some 3R versions I picked up to 2R.  If you have a question, I will try to assist, although it is far easier to show than to type a comprehensive answer.

I may have the diagram that came with them in one of my files.   I will look.  

@Bill Chaplik posted:

Thank you for the reply, Bill. I have been going through the parts for the past couple hours while the chassis runs itself in a bit on a loop on my layout.

Thus far my questions center around the headlights. In my case there are loose in a bag and wired with a male pin connector for which there is no mate on the chassis. Testing them they seem to be GOW bulbs. My guess is that my best bet is to replace the bulbs with LEDs and just wire in a reversing circuit.

Mounting Kadees seem relatively simple although they are a bit low, but I can adjust that. There is some damage to the exhaust stack so I’ll have to find a good picture to see what it should look like.  The handrails are delicate and need to be painted. I’m wondering is a model car paint for lexan  bodies might be best.

Just thinking - early days yet.

Many thanks,
Curtiss Montgomery

Prrjim,

if you could find and send a picture of that diagram it would be extremely helpful.

curtiss

Prrjim is correct; if I remember correctly, the "instruction" is not much more than a line drawing of the unit and not much else...I think.

Mark in Oregon

the weaver handrails are of engineering plastic. not quite styrene. paint may have a difficult time adhering. some prep on them like wiping down with a ScotchBrite pad to get some tooth on them will help.

.......... they did not come with an owner instruction booklet,

Yup. Pretty much on your own and really not even needed; these are about as straightforward as it gets.

the weaver handrails are of engineering plastic. not quite styrene. paint may have a difficult time adhering. r.

Lot of folks replace them with brass stanchions and piano wire if not brass wire.

As a kind of a follow up, the body is held to the frame with (6) screws: 2 at each end, and 2 more kinda in the center, under where the motor is. I think they are 2-56...On one of my 2 examples, the ends of the frame had warped down towards the track: I had to carefully sand away a little material from the bottom of the pilots... not a big deal, but I thought you might want to be aware. 🙂

Mark in Oregon

Curtiss,

I can email you a copy of the instruction sheet that came with the RS3.   I found one.    It is just a diagram and parts list, but it is clear to show where the exterior parts go.

I have a fleet of these and can answer some questions about them if you have any.    I have converted all of mine to end tower drives with the P&D parts.

My email is in my profile, send me an email and I will send you the copy of the instruction sheet.

@prrjim posted:

I have a fleet of these and can answer some questions about them if you have any.    I have converted all of mine to end tower drives with the P&D parts.

Since you have a "fleet" 😁 of these, I wonder if you have any examples of the slight sagging of the ends of the frame. I had to file a bit off the bottom of the pilots; otherwise, as those pilots would contact the rails, you could hear a slight "scuffing" sound. Not enough to effect the speed, but still... 🙂

Mark in Oregon

Yes I have that problem.    I have 5 of these on the layout I think.   Most all have additional details to match specific PRR groups.    Obviously some repaints.

I think only one, maybe 2 have the sagging pilots.     I have a liftout and the weather sometimes causes a slight rise in the rail and the darn thing hits it if it is sticking up at all!  

@prrjim posted:

Yes I have that problem.    I have 5 of these on the layout I think.   

I think only one, maybe 2 have the sagging pilots.     I have a liftout and the weather sometimes causes a slight rise in the rail and the darn thing hits it if it is sticking up at all! 

I'm sorry to hear that, but I'm also slightly relieved to hear that it's not a one off problem. These plastic diesels, as nice and affordable as they are, can be a little flimsy. I'm thinking maybe some metal channel could be added to the frame.

I have 2 Red Caboose Geeps: one has always been 2 rail and the frame feels that way. The other came to me in 3 rail form, and has a steel "insert" that runs the length of the frame. Adds weight and really beefs up the entire chassis. In fact, all my Weaver diesels (and that Geep) were obtained in 3 rail form; thank goodness for NWSL.

Now that I think about it, all my plastic diesels have had NWSL geared wheelsets installed, either going 3 to 2 rail, or due to split gears (Atlas Fs and one of the Geeps)...

Mark in Oregon

P&D Hobbies and/or Des Plaines Hobbies had a brass insert for the RC GP-9 frame.    I think it installed underneath the existing  plastic frame but not sure.    I have seen them, but I don't have any RC GP9s.    It might have been a replacement for inside frame.     It added a significant weight.

All my Weavers came as 2 rail.   I have replaced a few gears in kind over the years.    for the first few years, I had a number of failures every year.   Now, they are pretty far between.

P&D Hobbies still stocks most mechanism parts and has had many manufactured new, not taken from Weaver inventory.

A friend of mine who was actually head of engineering for Kenner Toys when It included Lionel MPC trains, told me his theory on the gears.    He said it implied the mold was not hot enough and when the material flowed about and was supposed to weld, it was a little too cool and resulted in a weak spot at that place in the cast part.

I know this is an older thread, but wondering if you can tell me how to take the trucks apart?  I need to replace the gears on the axles and have managed to get them out of the truck, but still would like to know how to take them apart.

@H.D. Did you ever figure this out? I have only replaced the gear at the top of the tower. I never had a need to replace the gear at the truck.

Hi Phil!  Not yet, but I am thinking someone will know how to do it.  I have a lot of research to do on these things.

Thanks for your response!

H.D.

to get the sideframes off the bolster, take a pair of needle nose pliers and push out the sideframe stud. use care as it can snap off.

to get the wheel off the axle, use a wheel puller on the wheel, then the gear.