Labelle 0-262 kit issues-help

That is one of the joys of some of the LeBelle kits,   What you're describing seems to be fairly normal for the traction kits.  I've not built that specific kit - think I have on on the shelf so I might be able to pull out the instructions and take a look.

Generally, all of the strpwood and trim wood is identified by a dab of paint on the ends - different sizes got different colors.

Tends to encourage a certain amount of winging it,

Roof should be reasonbly close to correct - how's it match up with the floor?  Should be long enough to permit shaping the end and overhand the ends that yo have assembled.

Same story on the sides - do they fit the floor length?

The strip wood I can figure out since it's marked via painted ends, the loose scribed panels, not so much. Seems at one time these were numbered if I'm reading the instructions right...given number references per each round of the build- but those aren't there on the parts...maybe I'm too used to building model cars/trucks where they have a sheet dedicated to the sole purpose of what & where the parts are.{yeah ok, I'm spoiled!}.

See the notes on each pic-

I don't believe that those numbers refer to any specific panels but to steps or locations referred to in the instructions (somewhere...).  You will have to trim and fit what you need of each provided panel into the designated space to build up the pattern around the window openings.  I don;t believe that the panels go on as provided!  There's a lot of slicing & dicing and I now remember this well.  It can drive you nutz!  Generally after building a LaBelle I would swear never again, and then after the pain wore off, I'd build another.....

And, you are correct about one thing - these are not anything like a plastic car/truck model - classic bundle of sticks kit frequently with the instruction for 3 cars intermingled on one instruction sheet. 

Ok, so follow the picture to build up what it's supposed to look like - there's generally just a bit extra provided but not a lot extra.

How's the roof aligning up with the floor on the overhang issue?

Curious, too.  What are you going to use for a drive and do you have the exterior details?  Doing the interior, too?

I'll see if I can find a photo of one of my LaBelle trolleys - I think my built ones are all Lake Shore Electric proptotypes, but I'm sure that I have at least 1 SN kit on the shelf to be built.

1-I believe you!...just wondered if there was a trick to it other than asking for more or pulling out some like scribed sytrene

2-"close"...rel close. Like I said, if you can see it there's little room left for the overhang around the windows...might have to tweek the side elngth some to avoid issues...mind you though, the pic shows the doors "at" the side of the body and not behind and slightly in....that would shorten things up a tad.

3a- darn good question...see my other post for an aussie idea...I figured "get thru the kit 1st then worry about that"[lol]...btw, this is my 1st traction kit{if it didn't show already}.

3b- "not yet"...there's a round top version of this buggy with different windows/doors that sports twin poles and a cant 2/3s back from the front...liking that one sort of. {search sacramento combine #1005}

4-I would love to see that...thinking of it as light at the end of my tunnel.. 

Looking at that "split this panel for in front of the 1st window and the balance after the last window" just ain't gonna happen...I need to recount the pieces that go "between" the windows to see if there's 2 spares...I now know what I'd do with those.

I'm going to document the build on site to help others if they ever search a Labell kit here since a site search turned up nothing.

Ok, I think you've got it under control now, as much as anyone gets a LaBelle trolley kit under control on their 1st exposure.  I know the 1st Labelle kit I did was seriously intimidating - looked at it at least 3 times before I dumped it on the work bench and got after it.

Keep it going here and ask lots of questions - I'll try to answer what I can and direct you to parts, etc as you need them when I check in here.

Couple of things - you need to check out Q-Car for all your detail parts, exterior and interior.  Q-Car is also a good source for a drive, but it's strictly 2 rail and you can get them set up for overhead wire operation or not.

This week is also the East Penn Trolley meet near Philadelphia!!!

Last, here's a photo of one of my LaBelle kit trolleys - was a Lake Shore Electric Combine that's lettered for the CG&W.  I know I have the coach or the freight motor, but I can't locate any pictures for some reason tonight.

Sweet car!

Ok, I got some progress today- here's the pics and explanation-

1} Don't take the large scribed piece by the baggage door to split it for some of the area in front of the 1st window, use one of the spare short window pieces and cut off the over hang.

2} Had to shave some off the top of the cellestory window strip to get it to go high enough to center the windows top to bottom- would be too low if you don't.

3} pic here is a close up when centered...about .010 off the top of the strip.

4-6} Now for that back scribed panel- after the usual trimming off of the un-needed ends{you'll see them} I installed the main panel, then a window center panel after it...it will overhang, trim it off.

7} I added .040 shims to the top milled out channel to make the back of the sides flush for better door adhesion. The instructions say to glue the doors flush to the body but I inset them at proper height to shorten the body because the roof seems short to me...easier to shorten the body than lengthen the roof!...I can always sand the roof shorter if I'm wrong...

8} The doors will sit a tad high when set at the proper height..things like this happen in a kit like this...guess "craftsman kit" means tweeking because the factory didn't cut them spot on{lol}{I'm too used to model cars where warpage is the only concern}. 

9} See how the front door edge is set correctly to the chassis...

10} See how the back door{baggage door} is now short...good for me...bad if you were following the kit instructions. Looks like the frame is now 1/8" too long with the doors inset..check the roof shot and see if you agree I did the right thing.

11} With the frame now shortened the roof has what I like for overhang...that wouldn't be the case if you followed the instructions and fit the door sides flush with the body opening.

12} Here you see the roof has an even overhang where the top trim panel, once applied, will sit just shy of the roof edge...just the way I wanted it.

Now, I'm only showing my view of this build and those finding this thread will have options now...follow my way, follow the instructions or try your own way...options are a wonderful thing. If you have this kit, or one like it, set everything out and check for length and decide what you want to do...building a side sans doors will be the easy way to see it. 

If you come into this with the body already built and agree the roof seems too short, just add about 1/16" strip stock{I'd suggest basswood} to the end curves of the roof and sand/shape to the roofs contours...that'd get you an 1/8" longer roof...add more if that makes you happier...me, I shortened the sides and frame cause it's easier to remove material from the roof than to add it. I think I made the right choice, but read on when the body is done...we'll all find out!     

*I forgot a key note last night- there's two widths of passenger doors in this kit match the end doors to the end side panels and keep those set aside for the ends...the other two go on the body!

 More progress this morning...turns out the doors could have gone all the way out...see, you get the benefit of learning this thru me, but I'll be fine.

-Body sides and ends are on

-time for the trim work