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Some of you have read about the help that we often get from our good friend Rich, otherwise known as Doc. He is a retired orthopedic surgeon who flew carrier jets in Vietnam. He is very talented and last week was a major help in two areas… measuring and cutting out plywood pieces that were transformed into concrete and handling the paving of Randolph Street. Think orthopedics = fixing and replacing stuff, often using screws, rods, chisels, etc and, what is/was used for casts… plaster or a similar product.

We want to say thanks for all of his help. If anyone needs someone with these talents, we are willing to rent him out; has plane, will travel. Prefers locations near trout streams.


Last week we made progress in two areas, concrete areas near sidings/buildings and laying out and paving Randolph street.

Doc  measured and cut 1/8” birch plywood to fit beside the steam service turntable entry and adjacent/between 3 diesel area transfer table stub tracks. Paula painted these concrete, cut the expansion joints and cracks, and weathered each piece. Then they were installed and are ready for her to add additional detail pieces, figures, and grass/weeds.



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While Paula worked on the concrete, Doc and I laid out the remainder of Randolph Street. The road contractor came Friday and paved the street and parking lot. We used the Woodland Scenics road system and it worked fairly well.

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Saturday Paula and I removed the masking tape, cleaned up the excess plaster, and the road is ready for sanding. Doc checked in to make sure that we did not mess up all of his hard work.

Photos are before we removed the tape, etc.



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It was a tough week so after church yesterday we went to Southern Shores, OBX for a few days relaxation.

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Photos by Austin Gillespie (Age 10)

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Last edited by Bill Webb

Hello everyone! Was able to make some minor progress tonight on the layout. I moved my attention back to the town and barn hill. I made some sidewalks for my soon to be hotel and the mine owners residence. I made them out of scrap balsa wood and painted them with woodland scenics concrete paint. For barn hill, I added some ground cover. I still need to add trees and a few other things, but the hill is nearly done.
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Last edited by Trainmaster04

hi guys, you're all doing wonderful work! I love how it seems like everyone's projects are coming together!

Andy, Thanks I hope its not torn, the doc wanted to wait 7-10 days to see if it gets better before doing an MRI. I am fine with that! LOL

Bill I have a few trout streams around here, but I am sure it would be a long flight for even the doc to work on some silly train and go fishing! LOL The roads look great, I am so happy you keep posting with all your updates!

Jason, outstanding work on the back drops! I was cheap and just painted the walls blue, If I could do it over again I would have done some type of backdrop. Maybe if I ever take everything off the top of the layout! LOL

Steve, I don't know if the room is big enough, but I am really sure the concrete is thick enough to support maybe your very own rails and caboose in there as a guest bedroom! Really its looking great! You have come along way, and yes granted a long way to go. But that was the idea from the start! Have as much fun as you can!

As for me guys, I went out and ran trains, For some reason I have a dead spot near the back of town and I can't get to it with my knee the way it is, so the Amtrak will be late to the station for a little while! LOL Then again the gremlin that is stalling the engine there just might fix it over night!

I hope you all have a great week and fun with your layouts and trains!

Last edited by mike g.

Mike G, the concrete is 6 inches thick in the middle.  It has a 14-16 inch deep footer around the edge that's 6 in wide at the bottom.  The footer is about 14 in wide when it meets the pad.  It is not large enough for a caboose.  The walls are only 10 ft tall.



However this place in Texas is up for sale.20220614_185740

But I don't know if I can afford the taxes on that grn/yel Burlington Northern caboose to the left of the white bldg .

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Last edited by aussteve
@aussteve posted:

Mike G, the concrete is 6 inches thick in the middle.  It has a 14-16 inch deep footer around the edge that's 6 in wide at the bottom.  The footer is about 14 in wide when it meets the pad.  It is not large enough for a caboose.  The walls are only 10 ft tall.



However this place in Texas is up for sale.20220614_185740

But I don't know if I can afford the taxes on that grn/yel Burlington Northern caboose to the right of the white bldg .

Steve, I get it now, a monolith poor with the footing. I did the same for my train room, I just had to dig down 16" and a foot wide.

As for the grn/yep caboose, wouldn't that be just so cool to have!

Gentlemen, I am absolutely stunned by the size and level of detail of some of these layouts.

I admit I am late to the party with my O gauge.  I had to figure out how to mount it such that I could lower or raise it automatically (make it usable for the grandkids).  I had to learn AC wiring, which was like learning to brush the fangs of a rattlesnake (I have it down now), the availability of various parts that I needed/wanted to use, the design of my layout, which became more complex (complexity on a 4x8 sheet of plywood?) over time, and integrating the track design to retain certain elements of my dad's original layout, which was not complicated, built in the 80's.

I admit, I was still working long hours full time, had many family obligations, keeping my home and property repaired and looking good, and piddling with my 5 cars for 2 drivers.  But I was still putting in a few hours on occasion.

So far I have about 5 or 6 years into this project.  I retired April Fools Day, so have made significant process since then.  Substantial completion (does one ever complete a layout?) is in sight.  Another month should have me down to minute details that others will see as a part of the whole but see but I will see as a detail that I am very proud of figuring out.

The wiring still amazes me with the sheer number of connections needed.

Members of this forum were/are generous helpers.  I am sure many are wondering what my IQ is for several reasons on multiple occasions.

All that being said, I love to read this thread.  I am in absolute awe at the skill levels and layouts I see in the pictures.

I want to thank everyone for the help and entertainment to date.  I look forward to opening my email and reading and seeing the projects.  Please keep it up, if only to help us grade schoolers learn that 1+1 does not always equal 3.

Generally I reserve layout work for the winter but my roundhouse project has offered up a challenge.  First I had to reduce the roundhouse from 6 stalls to 3, that went better than expected.  Next I had to expand the layout to accept this still large structure.  Then I learned turntables are both expensive and coupled with roundhouses space hogs.  Borrowing from a forum member Jim Policastro, I looked back at his submissions to the magazine and decided to use a sector plate to access the roundhouse.  It will be 18 inches which will handle my longest locomotive and access 4 storage tracks, 3 internal, one external.  It juuuuuust fits, can be operated manually and with a bit of artistic license might pass for prototypical (or not).  Anyway, foam table top installed, track laid out, it will be left in place for a few days so I can stare at it to see if it really works.   Pictures to follow, thanks Jim for the inspiration.

Thanks Peter, With help from Mr. Wm Murphy (WVM) on here, we are trying to get me to understand how to do a video. Tough to teach OLD Dogs new tricks but we'll get it. As far as your remarks from last weeks post of layout pics for Mel, I concentrated on getting the layout running end to end which it is now, with operating yards on each end. I have an undeveloped space about mid way  between the ends I could use for interchange of traffic. Once close to full landscaping is achieved, I will concentrate on that area. Right now with 7 holding tracks on one end and 6 on the other, you can run a complete train into the yard and leave it there while another can run the other way or whatever. We do have options. If you are ever up my way, please let me know. This past winter my wife and I went through western North Carolina and met Sam Hopkins and after a good lunch, he took us to his local club layout where we had a very enjoyable visit. That's what makes this hobby so great along with the trains. Bill

Peter, As far as the I-5 is concerned, I was still working and owning my own company and there was little time to do anything with the trains. I was at Eastern States Train show as always and the year was 2012 I think. Weaver had just released the I-5. I had a bad year and felt I couldn't afford one. And then Weaver was gone. Last year I bid on several and lost each time and I thought I may never get one. Then E-Bay had one for sale but it was listed as not running. I took a chance and bought it and sent it out to Roy's Trains in Michigan.  I now set my sights on a Weaver I-4 Pacific and put a message in the Forum  "Wanted to Buy" section that I was interested in one. A member sent me a message saying he had seen one in a hobby shop in Easton P> and he gave me the information. It turned out to be another I-5. Not knowing whether Ray would have any luck fixing my first one, I told the store I would take it. He said the I-5 owner was a customer and he would tell him of my interest when he came in next. There was a couple of week lag and then another I-5 showed up on E-bay for sale. Since the price was roughly the same I wondered if it wasn't the owner of the Easton unit. So I bid on it and got that one. Later that week, the store called me and said the guy had accepted my offer. So it turned out it was a different one entirely. I had told him I would take it and to keep my word. I bought that one too. So that is how I ended up with 3 of them, The unit at Roys came back with a new type smoke unit and enhanced electronics and Legacy ready.   I have one numbered 1400 and two with the number 1409. One day we will finally have a video capability and show them in action.  Sometimes we get lucky. Bill

Hi Victor,  Thanks for the comment. My post got split up. It did say Brennans Ballast. Brennan is a brand of ballast that I prefer to use. If you goggle it, there are examples of what he sells. There are some opinions on here for which ballast is better, etc, I have used several different types and just prefer that manufacture. Others have had good results with other brands too. Its just my preference. It is a popular brand.  Bill

Completed the installation of the 3mm LED headlights to go with the LED strip lights in my buddy's MTH subway powered unit--everything works just fine.  This is the project where strip light LEDs would light; and, the 3mm LED headlights would light; but, they wouldn't light together.

Checked in my order from LIONEL Service of repair parts for a LC Canadian Pacific Hudson with damaged running gear on the right side.  Chief Drew will handle the actual repair work.

Opened the LIONEL Sir Topham Hat Gateman that arrived today and checked it out.  Listed as NEW on eBay minus the on/off switch, and it appeared to be just as described.  Will test it at the club Saturday.  Then it will join the other Thomas and Friends items being added to our travelling layout to be more kid friendly.

I'm thinking ahead......I want a station for a moderately-sized urban area.....I don't want something as big as Grand Central, or Denver Union Station.......an urban station that is in the 8-10" by 16-20" range.

Two layouts ago, this is what I used, made from Buildings Unlimited parts:

7AF4248F-86BC-47F0-8B14-BF60A9F2B5AECEB95E5A-3450-468C-82DF-C606B215F99ECA4E3908-90BE-4787-AB53-EF08692E680A

The layout was 14x26 and the picture is from around 2000-2001. The building was probably constructed around 1997-98. (this layout was from 1993-2003)

The next layout was 6x16 (2011-2021), and I used the MTH Public Works building as a station....

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I was thinking about "re-purposing" the older station.......but 1st I need to get rid of the hideous dark gray color.....This is with a coat of Tamiya light gray:

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Looks much better, doesn't it?

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Amother thought I had, was to acquire another Public Works building, and put the two together......

Lots of stuff to think about......

Peter

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Last edited by Putnam Division

I'm thinking ahead......I want a station for a moderately-sized urban area.....I don't want something as big as Grand Central, or Denver Union Station.......an urban station that is in the 8-10" by 16-20" range.


D7629837-4BD2-4AE7-BE88-27D6FB14514B_1_201_a

Amother thought I had, was to acquire another Public Works building, and put the two together......

Lots of stuff to think about......

Peter

A thought Peter- get a single story building and attach it to one side. I've seen many urban/ suburban stations with 2 story main sections and a single story off one or both sides.

Bob

I'm thinking ahead......I want a station for a moderately-sized urban area.....I don't want something as big as Grand Central, or Denver Union Station.......an urban station that is in the 8-10" by 16-20" range.



Amother thought I had, was to acquire another Public Works building, and put the two together......

Lots of stuff to think about......

Peter

The building fronts you've chosen bring to mind something like old Providence RI NYNH&H Sta...Providence fits the "moderately sized urban area" you seek and with some selective scaling would make a nice station. Here is a pic but others are available online...

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One of the things I struggle with in thinking about a station is the length of a 5 to 8 car set.  To me the building needs to be in proportion to that. There are several ideas on this forum  kit-bashing MTH banks (using usually 3) into extraordinary stations.

Of course when we caught Amtrak out of Chemult Oregon, the station was little more than a long concrete pad and a couple of open air glass shelters. The train had to stop, move and stop again to handle the train length. Chemult Oregon Amtrak Stop  fun trip

So far, I've wired three O22 switches correctly.  And one I wired last night, got rewired so that it might work too.  I ran a MTH handcar for a half hour.  The temperature in the train building is over 90 degrees.  I'll do something in the house till sundown.  Tonight I'll connect three "UCS" tracks.  Maybe I can make a milk car run tomorrow.

Bill

Last edited by Odenville Bill

I'm thinking ahead......I want a station for a moderately-sized urban area.....I don't want something as big as Grand Central, or Denver Union Station.......an urban station that is in the 8-10" by 16-20" range.

Two layouts ago, this is what I used, made from Buildings Unlimited parts:



The layout was 14x26 and the picture is from around 2000-2001. The building was probably constructed around 1997-98. (this layout was from 1993-2003)

The next layout was 6x16 (2011-2021), and I used the MTH Public Works building as a station....



I was thinking about "re-purposing" the older station.......but 1st I need to get rid of the hideous dark gray color.....This is with a coat of Tamiya light gray:



Looks much better, doesn't it?



Amother thought I had, was to acquire another Public Works building, and put the two together......

Lots of stuff to think about......

Peter

I second (or third) the kit bashed MTH banks option, Peter. Mine was a fun project and I think it came out really nice. I used only 2 banks, but it measures slightly longer than your 10x20 desired footprint. However, you could easily cut the center section in half and get it to your 20 inch length    -



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@Strap Hanger  I have always liked your station. well done. @Putnam Division if it were up to me, I would do what it takes to fit Strap's version into the layout.

I am pretty sure my future station will be the 3 bank version elevated above the rails. I want room for at least 8 passenger sets to be ready at the station. 

Here is the list:

  1. Milwaukee Road Hiawatha - modern and late 30's Beaver Tail version (trying to acquire) - pulled by F3s and a Bi-Polar or Little Joe(not secured yet) or E3
  2. Santa Fe streamlined - F3 ABA
  3. Pennsylvania Madison pulled by GG1 (on its way)
  4. Norfolk and Western Madison pulled by the 611 J Class
  5. Great Northern streamlined pulled by ABA F3
  6. Denver and Rio Grande pulled by AA F3 (my only rail king set)
  7. Burlington (not acquired yet) pulled by silver ABA F3
  8. Southern Pacific Daylight pulled by GS4 Daylight 4449
  9. Union Pacific (not acquired yet) pulled by Big Boy replicating recent tour.

Of course there is the matter of the Burlington Zephyr, UP 10000 and interurbans and  trolleys.

I think I lean toward passenger railroads

I did have a really nice Southern Crescent set and a Bi-Level Amtrak set I sold off thinking they did not fit with what I was trying to do. Proof that I do not keep everything delivered to my door. And proof the next house needs a larger train room.

I second (or third) the kit bashed MTH banks option, Peter. Mine was a fun project and I think it came out really nice. I used only 2 banks, but it measures slightly longer than your 10x20 desired footprint. However, you could easily cut the center section in half and get it to your 20 inch length    -



DD093FA3-1DF8-438E-BF6B-018779A550CE

That is a distinct possibility! Thank you!

Peter

@ScoutingDad posted:

@Strap Hanger  I have always liked your station. well done. @Putnam Division if it were up to me, I would do what it takes to fit Strap's version into the layout.

I am pretty sure my future station will be the 3 bank version elevated above the rails. I want room for at least 8 passenger sets to be ready at the station.

Here is the list:

  1. Milwaukee Road Hiawatha - modern and late 30's Beaver Tail version (trying to acquire) - pulled by F3s and a Bi-Polar or Little Joe(not secured yet) or E3
  2. Santa Fe streamlined - F3 ABA
  3. Pennsylvania Madison pulled by GG1 (on its way)
  4. Norfolk and Western Madison pulled by the 611 J Class
  5. Great Northern streamlined pulled by ABA F3
  6. Denver and Rio Grande pulled by AA F3 (my only rail king set)
  7. Burlington (not acquired yet) pulled by silver ABA F3
  8. Southern Pacific Daylight pulled by GS4 Daylight 4449
  9. Union Pacific (not acquired yet) pulled by Big Boy replicating recent tour.

Of course there is the matter of the Burlington Zephyr, UP 10000 and interurbans and  trolleys.

I think I lean toward passenger railroads

I did have a really nice Southern Crescent set and a Bi-Level Amtrak set I sold off thinking they did not fit with what I was trying to do. Proof that I do not keep everything delivered to my door. And proof the next house needs a larger train room.

Thanks Scouting Dad. Really nice list. Funny how all of us seem to eventually find that same “proof” for a larger train room!  For those looking to kitbash MTH banks, here are some links that I found very helpful -



https://www.trains.com/ctt/how...ge-railroad-station/

http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/MTHBankUnionStation

https://ogrforum.com/...rt-mth-bank-building

@Strap Hanger Thanks for the extra links, I've seen the forum threads but not the others.  I keep forgetting in many applications HO sized detailing works as well if not better than O.  I had a hard time finding the roof details.  Just ordered a few gas meters and electrical meters to go on the side of my Ameritowne and Walthers buildings. Hard to believe how much difference those little elements make - at least to me. Sewer covers and drains are next up.  Maybe one day a 3D printer. 

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