What did you do on your layout today?

Wow @chris a that's impressive work and to add LED lighting along g with it. It must be nice to have a son close by to give you a hand!

Did you get the color changing LED lights? I really love mine!

@mike g. posted:

Wow @chris a that's impressive work and to add LED lighting along g with it. It must be nice to have a son close by to give you a hand!

Did you get the color changing LED lights? I really love mine!

Mike,  No I didn't choose the "color changing" lighting.   I purchased the 6 inch Halo's that do allow me to choose different light temperature,  ie.  2800 Kelvin up to 5000 Kelvin.   I installed them at 3,000 K anything higher than that appears too blue and harsh for my eyes....  The dimmer enables me to dial the light down to nearly nothing which is nice.   

Honestly I prefer the track lighting with LED flood lamps I have over the rest of the layout, but that wasn't going to work on the West End where the layout is 9 feet deep and just over 16 feet long.  Once one walks around the "end" to view the layout, the track lights end up shining right into the viewer's eyes...  Plus the area is much deeper than the rest of the around the wall layout, so the recessed lighting produces a much more even distribution. 

Yes I am blessed to have the son and daughter local to help out.   

I worked on an unusual project. I like the look of Gargraves track but didn't like their 22.5-degree crossing. To me, the huge hulking center diamond frog was too distracting visually. I wanted to bury the crossing in dirt and weeds to look like old run down track, but I couldn't do that with the large metal diamond casting in the middle. So I substituted an Atlas 0 22.5-degree crossing. Operationally it works, but visually it has too many ties and they are too thin (some would say prototypical). To make the Atlas crossing look more like the adjoining Gargraves track I cut away every other tie on the outside of the Atlas crossing and then grafted on stripwood to the remaining ties to bulk them up.

I tried to cut away the unnecessary middle (in between the rails" ties) but that led so some of the rails popping out of the cast spikes. Not good! So, the extra middle ties will just be buried in dirt and weeds to hide them.

It is a compromise, but once I can live with. More on the project here: https://nenrailway.blogspot.co...rossing-dilemma.html

@BenLMaggi Seems to look fine and very professional.

Tom

Of the four switches on my new railroad, I planned two of them to operate manually. Today I installed Caboose ground throws and, more challenging, I installed RCS illuminated switch stands to the manual switches.  The later was a PITA to install and set up.  At one point I contemplated a fallback to a simplified, but not fully operational installation, but once I saw what they looked like when I tested the lights, I was back to plan A!  The pics below show the final result.  Note that the second pic has the switch on the right set to the diverging route.  The one complaint I have is that the stands do not rotate a full 90 deg when the switch is thrown, but I can live with the result.  Overall, I am very pleased and glad I took the time to install them. 

@Scott R posted:

Scott, is that an MTH Premier or Lionel Niagara? How is it? Been thinking about picking one up...

@BenLMaggi posted:

I worked on an unusual project. I like the look of Gargraves track but didn't like their 22.5-degree crossing. To me, the huge hulking center diamond frog was too distracting visually. I wanted to bury the crossing in dirt and weeds to look like old run down track, but I couldn't do that with the large metal diamond casting in the middle. So I substituted an Atlas 0 22.5-degree crossing. Operationally it works, but visually it has too many ties and they are too thin (some would say prototypical). To make the Atlas crossing look more like the adjoining Gargraves track I cut away every other tie on the outside of the Atlas crossing and then grafted on stripwood to the remaining ties to bulk them up.

I tried to cut away the unnecessary middle (in between the rails" ties) but that led so some of the rails popping out of the cast spikes. Not good! So, the extra middle ties will just be buried in dirt and weeds to hide them.

It is a compromise, but once I can live with. More on the project here: https://nenrailway.blogspot.co...rossing-dilemma.html

Ben   I did precisely the same thing for the same reason and it's been working great for many years now. 

@ogauge1217 posted:

Scott, is that an MTH Premier or Lionel Niagara? How is it? Been thinking about picking one up...

It’s an older MTH Premier originally with a PS2 5V board I bought off an auction site.  Unfortunately, the PS2 board died within weeks of purchase, but I had it upgraded to PS3 and it runs great ever since.  I installed the latest PS3 sound file and I love it.  

Definitely factor in the cost of a board replacement if planning to purchase a used PS2 loco with a 5V board.  Fortunately, this one was still a good value for me even with the upgrade.

@Scott R posted:

Of the four switches on my new railroad, I planned two of them to operate manually. Today I installed Caboose ground throws and, more challenging, I installed RCS illuminated switch stands to the manual switches.  The later was a PITA to install and set up.  At one point I contemplated a fallback to a simplified, but not fully operational installation, but once I saw what they looked like when I tested the lights, I was back to plan A! 

< snip >

Scott,

Your illuminated switch stands look great.  What was involved in installing them?

Thank you.

@Scott R Scott, yes the switch stands look great. Years ago, another OGR member handmade copper switch stands (which I followed and made myself, too). Back then, they had the same minor shortcoming, that they didn't fully rotate. Yours look very realistic.

Tom

Hi guys I did some more work out in the train room today as I primed all the walls and will paint part of them tomorrow. I have a big question for you all, I am 60 years old with bad knees and back. What do you all think would be a good height for my bench work? By the way I am 5'9". I have a plan but want to make sure it is something good! The plan I have now id 36"

Hi Mike,  your kitchen counters are at 36". So see if that height is comfortable for you

Mike, 36" seems too low to me.   My layout is 42 inches at lowest point.    I still have my knees but at my age it's always a chore to get under the layout when needed.   Think about your ability to work under the layout - give yourself room.    PS: you're only a couple years older than my son!!

Cheers, Dave          

Thanks Jeff I like working on 36" benches. My concern is having to work under them. I think my last layout was 36" to the top which made it 32 under and that was a PIA.

Dave 42" sound good, this time I am going to try a L-girder cookie cutter method to try and save money on plywood. Still researching it.

@mike g. posted:

Hi guys I did some more work out in the train room today as I primed all the walls and will paint part of them tomorrow. I have a big question for you all, I am 60 years old with bad knees and back. What do you all think would be a good height for my bench work? By the way I am 5'9". I have a plan but want to make sure it is something good! The plan I have now id 36"

I'm 66 y/o so I stayed with 40" benchwork covered with 3/4" plywood and 1/2" Homasote.   It gives me some headroom underneath and a decent "top of the layout" height.  A stool helps if I need to reach across the layout top for something.

(I had back surgery 20+ years ago, so I can't "twist and shout" or work hunched over anymore like some folks can even at my age.  I took my physical  situation into account when planning the layout and its height.)

@Pat Shediack posted:

I'm 66 y/o so I stayed with 40" benchwork covered with 3/4" plywood and 1/2" Homasote.   It gives me some headroom underneath and a decent "top of the layout" height.  A stool helps if I need to reach across the layout top for something.

(I had back surgery 20+ years ago, so I can't "twist and shout" or work hunched over anymore like some folks can even at my age.  I took my physical  situation into account when planning the layout and its height.)

Thanks Pat, I have been following your build here. I don't have to worry about reach except for 2 corners where the deepest spot is 4' deep. Everything else I can reach even myv5' wide peninsula  inches middle.

So far it sounds like 40" is the height to shoot for.

@mike g. posted:

Thanks Jeff I like working on 36" benches. My concern is having to work under them. I think my last layout was 36" to the top which made it 32 under and that was a PIA.

Dave 42" sound good, this time I am going to try a L-girder cookie cutter method to try and save money on plywood. Still researching it.

Yes!  L-girder is the way to go!   Saves on material but most importantly, gives you greater scenic options to create interest!.    You only need support under the track and where buildings are placed.   You can always add extra 1x4 stringers where needed for added support.   At 42" with a 1x4 stringer, plus 1/2" plywood/OSB, 1/2 homesite and 1/4 road bed, this will reduce the floor to stringer clearance by about 5".   Now you have about 37" of clearance under the layout.    At 36" you would only have about 31".  In my experience, it is nice to have headroom under the layout!    My thoughts!

Cheers, Dave

@darlander posted:

Yes!  L-girder is the way to go!   Saves on material but most importantly, gives you greater scenic options to create interest!.    You only need support under the track and where buildings are placed.   You can always add extra 1x4 stringers where needed for added support.   At 42" with a 1x4 stringer, plus 1/2" plywood/OSB, 1/2 homesite and 1/4 road bed, this will reduce the floor to stringer clearance by about 5".   Now you have about 37" of clearance under the layout.    At 36" you would only have about 31".  In my experience, it is nice to have headroom under the layout!    My thoughts!

Cheers, Dave

Thanks Dave, depending on how much plywood I have to get  I might not use homesote. Just cork or rubber road bed. It all depends on what I can get my hands on.

https://youtu.be/OeuejpjGzyo?si=ugJ1nT2P3t5sQLKM

I published this video today. It’s a GoPro tour of my layout!

@Tim A#1 posted:

https://youtu.be/OeuejpjGzyo?si=ugJ1nT2P3t5sQLKM

I published this video today. It’s a GoPro tour of my layout!

Tim nice video and great looking layout from the view of a train ride.

Thank you Mike!

@mike g. posted:

Hi guys I did some more work out in the train room today as I primed all the walls and will paint part of them tomorrow. I have a big question for you all, I am 60 years old with bad knees and back. What do you all think would be a good height for my bench work? By the way I am 5'9". I have a plan but want to make sure it is something good! The plan I have now id 36"

Go at least 42" and higher is better.  Working underneath is easier if you sit on a rolling stool - see how much clearance you need to move around without bumping your head.

IMO, the view is more satisfying on a higher layout too. 

@Scott R posted:

Of the four switches on my new railroad, I planned two of them to operate manually. Today I installed Caboose ground throws and, more challenging, I installed RCS illuminated switch stands to the manual switches.  The later was a PITA to install and set up.  At one point I contemplated a fallback to a simplified, but not fully operational installation, but once I saw what they looked like when I tested the lights, I was back to plan A!  The pics below show the final result.  Note that the second pic has the switch on the right set to the diverging route.  The one complaint I have is that the stands do not rotate a full 90 deg when the switch is thrown, but I can live with the result.  Overall, I am very pleased and glad I took the time to install them.

They look great. If I installed them on my layout I am sure I would bump them with my hand and ruin them.

@mike g. posted:

Thanks Dave, depending on how much plywood I have to get  I might not use homesote. Just cork or rubber road bed. It all depends on what I can get my hands on.

Mike, I’ve had an excellent result with carpet padding.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Mike, I’ve had an excellent result with carpet padding.

Wow I have never hear or thought of that. Might have to do a little research!

I’m 73 years old, 5 feet 9 inches tall and relatively limber. When  I built my benchwork around 1998 when I was about 47 years old, I made the height of my layout between 48 to 50 inches high depending on the location.

I’m glad I made it that high, which makes it relatively easy for me to crawl under the layout tables when I need to do that. I call that my model railroad yoga. Arnold

@Arnold D. Cribari posted:

I’m 73 years old, 5 feet 9 inches tall and relatively limber. When  I built my benchwork around 1998 when I was about 47 years old, I made the height of my layout between 48 to 50 inches high depending on the location.

I’m glad I made it that high, which makes it relatively easy for me to crawl under the layout tables when I need to do that. I call that my model railroad yoga. Arnold

Thanks Arnold, I am going to go out with a tap and see what is going to be better for me, between working under and reaching things on top. I don't want to have to get a stool to work on top that would be just to much for me!

I have a well-settled layout (most of it was built in the late 1990s) and haven’t made any major renovations or changes since 2020 and 2021 during Covid. However, this morning I noticed that I had a nice billboard with a blinking light that I had removed from the layout when I installed a Department 56 Yankee Stadium facade several months ago.

So, today I placed that illuminated billboard in the vicinity of the Yankee Stadium facade and hooked up the wiring.

Here it is:

Arnold

@mike g. posted:

Thanks Jeff I like working on 36" benches. My concern is having to work under them. I think my last layout was 36" to the top which made it 32 under and that was a PIA.

Dave 42" sound good, this time I am going to try a L-girder cookie cutter method to try and save money on plywood. Still researching it.

Mike,

Try climbing in under your kitchen sink.....the higher you can go the better. I'm 6'5" so getting under anything is a challenge for me. I like a higher bench top for viewing as well.

Bob

@mike g. posted:

Hi guys I did some more work out in the train room today as I primed all the walls and will paint part of them tomorrow. I have a big question for you all, I am 60 years old with bad knees and back. What do you all think would be a good height for my bench work? By the way I am 5'9". I have a plan but want to make sure it is something good! The plan I have now id 36"

Mike, my levels are at 44" and 50".  I am 2 inches taller than you.  My suggestion is to not make it too low as your back will bark back at you.  For me, the 44" is a nice height, so I would suggest 42" for you. 

There has been so much on this thread as of late, that I can't seem to keep up.  I posted the details on my Blackwater Canyon Line thread, but in a nutshell I have been building lift up panels for my town that provides access to 5 tracks below.  Here are a few photographs.

Hi guys I know higher is better most.of the time. I went out with a tape and my Lazer, I started out at 42"s and for me it seemed a little high for me. I then tried 40"s what I found better for me as height and under sitting under not having to reach up to far.

I the taped and painted the top half sky blue.  Here is a few photos for your enjoyment.  Tomorrow will be white on the lower half, the carpet!

Mark as I said on your build thread I think things are looking great! Keep up the wonderful work!

@Pat Shediack posted:

Scott,

Your illuminated switch stands look great.  What was involved in installing them?

Thank you.

Hi Pat.  It took a lot of fiddling to get both the mechanical and electrical aspects of the stands working properly.  The electrical work included creating a DC powered bus and then connecting the leads from the lamps to the bus (soldering involved). The leads are very small wire, so care is in order.  Also, the lamp had to be positioned properly on the ties such that the lamps rotated correctly.  The wires extend out the bottom of the sand and through the benchwork, but care must be taken to make sure the wires don't get fouled and inhibit rotation of the lamp.  I plan to ballast the track later and was worried that glue and ballast would foul the wires so I used a 1/4" plastic tube pushed up through the benchwork as a guide for the wires.  The top of the tube extends slightly above the table to act as a block / dam for the to be added glue / ballast.  Seemed like a great idea, but the tube then fouled the rotating cam and small push rod wire.  Trimming the wire and adding an additional bend cured that.

The bottom line, it's a trial-and-error process to make sure the stands are working properly, Make sure both the electrical and mechanical aspects are squared as much as possible before drilling holes and anchoring the stands the ties. Installation of the second one went much faster.

@mike g. posted:

Wow I have never hear or thought of that. Might have to do a little research!

Here’s a photo of mine; which has not been ballasted. It was a remnant that I got for free from the flooring store we had used. Based upon a suggestion from the forum I painted it black. That way when it does get ballast, an unusual color doesn’t peak through. It was very easy to cut since I typically used scissors. For longer runs I marked it and used a knife.

Jay

Thanks Jay, I think I will have some leftover after the carpet.goes down.

You can always ask the vendor for additional materials. It’s just left over pieces.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

You can always ask the vendor for additional materials. It’s just left over pieces.

Lol I'm so cheap, I am the vendor!

@MikeG., I’m hoping it’s ok to congratulate you on the beautiful progress you’re making in your new train room. First, I like the idea of grid construction, and that’s how we built our layout. Also, 1/2-5/8 plywood with homasote is a recommendation I would seriously consider. (It’s a one time buy, lasting you the life of the layout, must be painted with enamel paint so no warpage, it’s easy to screw the track to the homasote) Also, I would recommend 1/4 cork roadbed under the mainlines, not in the yards, yards are not noisy. Here’s a thought for your railroad height, I recommend 48 inches, it’s closer to eye level for more realism. Also, it would allow you to sit on a roll around stool to do the wiring under your layout. The track you are using can be screwed into the homasote easily, and you can take a level, lay it on the track for perfect train running. My layout starts at 42 inches, goes to 55/inches, and up to 77 inches for the top level, via twin helixes. Each mainline is level. When using the grid construction, use different levels to simulate valleys, utilizing bridges, and making unique scenes. Allow enough room for the turntable area, it will become the Focal Point. There are several books on how to build a grid construction layout. Now, your painting, dark ceiling, recessed lights look Fantastic. I’ll chime in later as you make progress. I started my layout at age 55-59??, at 80, it’s still easy to crawl under the layout for repairs. Good Luck, keep up the great work, it’s gonna be a great layout.
Your friend in Tennessee, Leapin Larry

Mike, Wow!  The room is really looking great!!  Of course you don't need as many coats of paint as I needed to cover the previous Barbie-My Little Pony Pink!!    I'm really looking forward to seeing your layout come to life, but I know not as much as you are!!

Mike g. LEAPIN LARRY  IS RIGHT ON. about the height of the main train table. Mine is 42 inches with lower levels as well as higher levels up to 58 inches. The lower  level is about 28 in. Getting under the layout is a big deal especially  when you get older when you're knees give out as mine have. I hope soon you can visit Larry's layout because pics don't  show all the work evolved.   Trains are so much fun when others enjoy them also.