Blackwater Canyon Line - March 20, 2025, Brick Street Extension Planning

Mark, things sure are looking different at your place! I really like the ideas you're coming up with and can't wait to see where it goes! It's funny how things are always changing! I am sure if you go with a double bridge the life will still work as it did for me.

Thank you, Mike!!  I would think the lift wouldn't have a problem.  If I recall correctly, it is rated at either 200 or 250 pounds.

I painted the chimney and got the mortar in for the station.  It looks pretty close to the brick on the building, close enough.

I haven't had much time for the layout, but did want to report I painted and installed the chimney that John sent me.  While the bricks are different than the station, I think I got a pretty good match.  I apologize for the cockeyed first photograph.

I counted the number and spacing of the snowbirds (snow guards) from prototype photographs and even watched a couple videos from a manufacturer to see where they should be located with respect to shingle edges and gaps.  I also painted them, so next up is to mark the spots and drill small holes to help hold them in place.

Many thanks to Andy @Steamfan77 for sending me some straight track for the double track bridge project.  I had to postpone picking up the bridge from the forum member in Ohio who has it.  Thank you for looking.

Nice job on the chimney! Good job matching things.

When does the station open for business or has the RR gotten permission for partial occupancy already?

@Mark Boyce posted:

I haven't had much time for the layout, but did want to report I painted and installed the chimney that John sent me.  While the bricks are different than the station, I think I got a pretty good match.  I apologize for the cockeyed first photograph.

I counted the number and spacing of the snowbirds (snow guards) from prototype photographs and even watched a couple videos from a manufacturer to see where they should be located with respect to shingle edges and gaps.  I also painted them, so next up is to mark the spots and drill small holes to help hold them in place.

Many thanks to Andy @Steamfan77 for sending me some straight track for the double track bridge project.  I had to postpone picking up the bridge from the forum member in Ohio who has it.  Thank you for looking.

Looks good Mark.

I will note however that you may have an issue with the local building inspector. The top of the chimney is supposed to be 3' above any obstructions to prevent downdrafts.

I would suggest having a nice envelope prepared when he shows up.......

Uh-oh, more code talk. Based on the age of the railroad station, I think it may be grandfathered in !

The station turned out real nice!

-Greg

Thank you, Bill, Bob, Richie, Greg.

Bill, supply chain issues (ie Mark hasn’t started shopping 😄) have caused a delay.  Looks like perhaps a ‘pre-order’ issue.  😄

Bob, I thought the same as you.  Richie knows you well!  😄  I positioned the chimney to roughly match the architect drawings and prototype in service photographs.

Richie, I love grandpa on these issues. 😄

Greg, 👍🏻

Looking good Mark! The chimney is a good match. Perhaps a little weathering will blend it more with the station. It was my pleasure to lend a hand to your excellent layout.

Andy

Awesome job! It's gonna look great on the layout.

Awesome job on the station Mark.

Mark, you’ve done a fantastic job on this really nicely styled station. Your chimney looks like a great match and the siding is appropriate for the scene. Wow, Your layout is on the move. I know I don’t chime in often, however with OGR’s system, I have all the updates as folks make comments and this keeps me up to date on the wonderful progress your making. Happy Railroading Everyone

Nice job, Mark!

The chimney is a great match.

George

Thank you, Andy, Bill, Joe, Larry, George.

Yes a little weathering will help blend things together, Andy.

Larry, I do like getting update emails on everything I have been following.  I haven’t been commenting on as many threads as I once did.  I could spend hours here and never get to the layout!  😄

Mark, great job on the station. All the work is paying off.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I haven't had much time for the layout, but did want to report I painted and installed the chimney that John sent me.  While the bricks are different than the station, I think I got a pretty good match.  I apologize for the cockeyed first photograph.

I counted the number and spacing of the snowbirds (snow guards) from prototype photographs and even watched a couple videos from a manufacturer to see where they should be located with respect to shingle edges and gaps.  I also painted them, so next up is to mark the spots and drill small holes to help hold them in place.

Many thanks to Andy @Steamfan77 for sending me some straight track for the double track bridge project.  I had to postpone picking up the bridge from the forum member in Ohio who has it.  Thank you for looking.

Mark, that is great. Is there an interior to the building? I can't tell on my phone if there's curtains or maybe a glare, but it turned out real nice.

As for bricks, that is between the chimney and the rest of the building, it could be that it was a different batch that was fired. I think my grandfather had given a slight education on bricks when we had done some work on mom's house a great number of years ago. Maybe even they had to import than from England. Your station, your backstory.

Thank you RJ and Dave!

RJ, it has been a lot of work, but fun for the most part.

Dave, no interior yet.  Bill Webb gave me several resources, but I haven't ordered anything.  Both roofs are easily removable, and there is room for me to maneuver items in there.  I even have the floorplan, but certainly won't put in walls that can't be seen from the exterior.  You have a great point about different bricks being used on different sections of buildings over the years.  I'm using the backstory of the prototype that was located in Thomas, West Virginia.  This prototype had to have had different bricks in different locations, because it was heavily damaged in a tornado in 1942.  The one story section was removed and rebuilt in a different configuration.  The two story part was intact.  They had to use different bricks, although I can't tell from reprinted black and white photographs.

Mark, you have done a great job on the station! Have you finalized the rotation of the building? I love the idea of a longer siding for the station!

Mark.....it is really coming along!!!!!!

I love the station.......beautifully done!!!!!

Peter

Great job Mark! Your attention to detail really shows.

Thank you, Mike, Peter, John!

Mike, I settled on this view.

John, the chimney you made really helps the appearance.  Thank you.

Last evening, I started installing the snow guards(snowbirds).  I started them on the end that will be least visible.  First I measured, then drilled a small hole with a pin vice.  I put a tiny dab of CA on the tiny mounting pin and positioned it in the hole.  They are really tricky with any of the tweezers I have.  I did 3 and had enough for a while.  At that rate it will take all summer to do them all!  😄  

Mark, perhaps some cotton extending from the top of the chimney would have a nice look.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Mike, Peter, John!

Mike, I settled on this view.

John, the chimney you made really helps the appearance.  Thank you.

Last evening, I started installing the snow guards(snowbirds).  I started them on the end that will be least visible.  First I measured, then drilled a small hole with a pin vice.  I put a tiny dab of CA on the tiny mounting pin and positioned it in the hole.  They are really tricky with any of the tweezers I have.  I did 3 and had enough for a while.  At that rate it will take all summer to do them all!  😄  

Looks good Mark.
Don't you just love it when a great idea suddenly meets the reality of installation.  

Bob

Mark - gee I don't see any snowbirds in the photo - have they flown the proverbial coop already? 

Thank you, Jay, Bob, and Jeff.

Maybe I should install a smoke unit in the chimney!  Oh, I almost forgot; the Fire Chief says no smoke indoors!

Bob, you are so right!  David Eisinger told me there wasn't much of a tab to hold them in place.  He was right.  It reminds me of the fiasco of trying to build the Walthers substation.  In that case, I pulled the 'good enough' lever and bought the Woodland Scenics substation. 

Jeff, I understand what you mean about snowbirds.  None had roosted in that photograph that I reused from a couple weeks ago.  In Western Pennsylvania 'snowbirds' are those folks who winter in Florida.  I didn't know what to call them, and David Eisinger called them snowbirds which is what Tichy calls them.  I learned later that the term 'snow guard' was used on the drawing of the prototype, and a manufacturer of the 1:1 scale ones are called snow guards as well.  I may go 'cuckoo' trying to install them. 

Mark, I’ve only heard the term “snowbird” for the guard. As with many items, the same thing can go by different names depending on the region. For example: Hero (NY), Grinder (NE), Sub (NJ), Hoagie (PA). 😉 My regions may be off, but you get the idea. I think they will add a nice detail to your station no matter what they’re called!

Andy

@Mark Boyce posted:

I haven't had much time for the layout, but did want to report I painted and installed the chimney that John sent me.  While the bricks are different than the station, I think I got a pretty good match.  I apologize for the cockeyed first photograph.

I counted the number and spacing of the snowbirds (snow guards) from prototype photographs and even watched a couple videos from a manufacturer to see where they should be located with respect to shingle edges and gaps.  I also painted them, so next up is to mark the spots and drill small holes to help hold them in place.

Many thanks to Andy @Steamfan77 for sending me some straight track for the double track bridge project.  I had to postpone picking up the bridge from the forum member in Ohio who has it.  Thank you for looking.

WOW Mark!!!  This station looks terrific!!  You give such superb attention to detail!  How wonderful!!!

@Steamfan77 posted:

For example: Hero (NY), Grinder (NE), Sub (NJ), Hoagie (PA). 😉

Andy

You got at least one right, Andy! Growing up in Vermont... I had never heard of a sub, hero or a hoagie ...chock one up for the boonies.

Thank you Andy, Pat, Dennis!

Hoagie is definitely right for Western Pennsylvania, but I really don’t know about Eastern.  There are so many differences between Pittsburgh and Philly, east and west.  It’s like a different state.  I’ve only ever been east of the Susquehanna River twice.

Pat, thank you.  I had a good kit to start with.  The Carolina Craftsman Kits are nicely done.

About details, I’m really struggling with the snowbirds getting them straight.  I started dabbing in glue from the underside of the hole, which is a lot neater, but my hand isn’t steady enough to get them all lined straight.  It’s like making fine adjustments on relays back at the power company ages ago.  The saying was, “If you think you moved it, you moved it too far”. 😄

To add to the sub discussion, we went to Philly once and we wanted to get an official Philly cheesesteak because we had never had one before.  The lady asked us if we wanted it with wiz?  At first we were confused, but soon realized she was referring to cheese wiz.  That's how they make them there apparently 😉.  For me,  "snowbirds" means the retired/elderly people that travel to Florida for part of the year, but I also know what you're putting on your station 😁 .

Maybe you could try lightly taping a straight edge or ruler to the roof to help you get them lined up in the proper orientation easier.  Are you going to stagger them or will they all be in a straight line?

I also love seeing your level of detail!  Keep up the great work!

Michael

On the Philly side of the state a cheesesteak “with “ means onions. The cheese portion is under stood. Hoagies are cold sandwiches with your choice of meat along with cheese (optional) lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles. It has to be on the proper roll. Also, we don’t go to the beach we go to the shore. When we’re at the shore then we go to the beach.

Thank you Michael, Jay.

I am able to get the snowbirds in straight rows.   Watching a Berger Building Products tutorial whether the shingles are slate or composite, the slots on the mounting brackets should be hooked around nails leaving the snowbird near the edge of the shingle above it.  That gives me a natural straight line.  My problem is keeping the tiny things from rotating slightly as I place them.  I'll try to get a photograph later since I am up late and the phone I use is in the bedroom.

Jay, I agree with your description of hoagies and Philly cheesesteak.

Can you do them one at a time using superglue? Loctite gel should work. Spray with accelerator when in place.

Bill, I did use some superglue I got at the hardware store.  I am drilling holes for a tight fit, but the tabs are only like a millimeter long.  Once I get them rotated to the right position, I'm good to go gluing from the underside and tipping the roof over to let some superglue drain down in the hole.  Doing that, I don't get glue on the shingle.  A couple of the first ones I did that the chimney will mostly hide have glue stain on a shingle.  Every tool I use still shakes a bit even when I brace my hand.  I sure like keyed slots better for attaching parts.    A few at a time, and I'll be done sometime. 

As an aside, but defiantly related to layout building, I was cleared by the back surgeon last week for any activity I can handle using proper lifting techniques and keeping up my exercises for core strength.  On a sad note, the sciatic nerve that was damaged by the initial bulging discs is still giving me issues from the keister to my toes.  Last evening, it hurt to sit and it hurt to stand, so I gave up with a few holes left unfilled.  I guess I should take the building upstairs to the comfy couch to work on.    That may be the answer.  I'll get back to it.  I am now scheduled for a first visit to a pain clinic next Tuesday, so maybe they have something to help me a bit. 

You could try getting them properly lining up by first squaring up some low grip tape to the roof surface, like blue painter's tape, for each one.

After you glue the snowbird in place, let it dry a little and tap with an awl or toothpick until you get it square to the tape - when dry remove the tape - repeat for each one.

And let's not forget "grinders".

Glad that you were released. Hopefully the pain clinic will have some ideas that will work.  

it sounds like your idea of a few at a time may be the answer. We will keep you in our prayers.

Thank you Richie and Bill!

Richie, I tried a toothpick on the ones I had already glued in place.  I had to give them a pretty good nudge, but they straightened up close enough to the eye.  That may have been because the roof is card stock and it gave a bit.  Anyway, I proved they aren't going anywhere else.  I'll try it on them as they dry a little as you suggested.  I would have not thought of that idea.

Thank you, Bill.  All prayers are appreciated.  I only reported on it since it does affect how I approach modeling, not to mention everything else.  For me, it's just disappointing.  I'm more concerned about my wife's cardio and rare osteoarthritis condition.  She sees a different cardiologist next month and finally has a diagnosis on the osteo issue and started medication a few days ago. 

I’m sure the snow birds will come our great. Can’t wait to see.

Best of luck with the pain clinic. Maybe they can make your quality of life that much better. In addition to the core strengthening, maybe you could ask about what stretches would be beneficial. I’ve found that daily stretching helps. I’ll keep a good thought for you and your wife.

Andy

Thank you, Andy!!

Here is the first side.  It doesn't look too bad.  The viewer will see this at a pretty sharp angle.  Hopefully the rest will look a little better.

Looks pretty good to me. Nice work Mark.

Mark, I agree with Jeff, they look really good. I can’t think of anything to do differently.

Thank you, Jeff and Jay!  They are quite acceptable.  On to another side.

On another note, I did make the decision to buy the Atlas double truss bridge from a Forum member.  We are meeting this Sunday afternoon about an hour and a half from my house.  I will leave plenty early to make as many stops as needed to stretch my legs.  So, next up is replacing bridges.  Once the lift up is working well, I'll build up roadbed around the loop where I have the plastic trestle bents now.  Then I'll build a lift out section for the town to be raised to upper track level and have some car storage underneath as Jeff suggested.  I'll be allowing for access to the lower tracks either as a tunnel, stone wall canyon, or probably a little of both.  I want to get all that done before I get back to scenery building in case I find I need to reroute more existing track.

They look terrific Mark! Well done. Can’t wait to see the rest. The bridge project will have a big impact. You have a good plan going forward.

Andy

Thank you Andy!  I got a few more snowbirds on.  Tomorrow evening I should have the bridge for a comparison photograph.

Can't wait to see the new bridge Mark. It's gonna look great. I like the snowbirds too.

Bob

just to touch on the "snowbirds" term again. Last night, I was listening to the old time radio channel on SXM, and there was a Fort Laramie episode that might have even been titled snowbird. In that episode, "snowbirds" were men who joined the army in the fall, enjoyed the relative warmth of the fort barracks all winter, then deserted in the spring.

And Western PA hoagies can be hot or cold. None of this "toasted" either, but you got your 'Italian' hoagies from a pizzeria, and it was baked in the oven until the mozzarella was completely melted and the meats a bit crispy on the edges. (cold) Subs were available, but you went to the Triangle Grill (not far from the old Union Switch and Signal plant) with friends and family to get a Battleship. Ugh.. Homesick and hungry now so early in the morning.   

Thank you, Bob and Greg!

Bob, here are a couple photographs of the bridge, just for you.

He told me up front, it wasn't painted, so I'll have to do that.  I'm going to beef up the end where I will put the hinges since it is of course heavier than the single track bridge.  The single track one was already painted silver when I bought it.  I will have to decide what color to paint it and will make it not as shiny.

Last evening I got snowbirds but on one side of the gable roof, so I'm on a roll; sort of.

Greg, that story about the Fort Laramie snowbirds makes sense.  I can see why fellows would enlist for the warm winter bunk, and who was going to catch them if they deserted in spring.  I agree hoagies can be hot or cold, not toasted.  We stopped at a place that may have been a chain in the north suburbs of Pittsburgh a few years ago, and they were toasted so hard you could hardly bite through them.  That just isn't right!!!!  I'll bet the Battleship was something!  I carried my lunch to high school.  The cafeteria served cold hoagies every so often, but they called theirs " Mars Jet Buns" since I went to Mars High School.  Bad joke.  Fifty plus years ago, it was just a small rural school, now the suburbs are encroaching.  I'm glad I live farther north now.  It isn't the same place by far.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Bob and Greg!

Bob, here are a couple photographs of the bridge, just for you.

He told me up front, it wasn't painted, so I'll have to do that.  I'm going to beef up the end where I will put the hinges since it is of course heavier than the single track bridge.  The single track one was already painted silver when I bought it.  I will have to decide what color to paint it and will make it not as shiny.

Last evening I got snowbirds but on one side of the gable roof, so I'm on a roll; sort of.

Greg, that story about the Fort

Looks great Mark. I'm sure Mike can offer assistance if necessary.

Here on Lawn-Guy-land it's a hero whether it's hot or cold.

As long as it's in front of me, I don't care what it's called. 🤣🤣🤣

Bob

Very nice looking bridge. Please carefully document/show what you do to it. Copycats are waiting to borrow your technique,

Thank you, Bob and Bill!

Bob, you are probably a Lawn-Guy-lander who says, "I don't care what you call me, just don't call me late got supper!"

Bill, Isn't copy-catting what this Forum for?  I got the idea from Mike and can pass on my version to whoever needs it.

All is looking great Mark. I like the roof and the bridge. Can't wait to see more.

Thank you, Dave!

@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Bob and Bill!

Bob, you are probably a Lawn-Guy-lander who says, "I don't care what you call me, just don't call me late got supper!"

Bill, Isn't copy-catting what this Forum for?  I got the idea from Mike and can pass on my version to whoever needs it.

Looking good.......can't wait to see further pics.....

Peter

Nice looking bridge.  I missed its acquisition.  Is it an Atlas?

George

Thank you, Bob, Peter, George!

Yes it is an Atlas.  The single track one is Atlas also.

I haven't been able to do anything on the layout since getting the bridge, but I did do some more measuring.  I thought I had read in online literature from Atlas that the tracks on the double track bridge are 4" apart, center rail to center rail.  The tracks looked a good bit farther apart than that as I looked at the bridge.  Actually, they are exactly 4-1/2" apart center rail to center rail.  So, I will have to move the track that is closest to the station 1/2" farther from the other track.  That really won't be that much of a problem, after examining my roadbed and track.  Nothing is glued down, I just used screws.  I can start the curve that starts in front of the window a little sooner.  The track on other side of the bridge will be reworked anyway, so it is a non issue there.

Mark,  be careful with that bridge.  I have installed quite a few of them.  Fairly delicate or rather should I say fragile.  Great detail but not very durable.  Somewhat like the original Inter Mountain 0 scale freight cars.  Best used in a once and done permanent installation away from any traffic in my opinion.

Using the bridge bare bones as a lift up I would suggest following Susan Deats  Atlas bridge installation.  Susan has a very detailed website on a variety of 0 scale issues.  Susan is a very  helpful person in the intricacies of model RRing.

After having some visitors reverse engineer a kit out of an installed Atlas bridge I started to make a plywood trays out of Laune, lath strips and Multi ply.    Very durable and easy to R & R.

Flat black makes the wood base blend in.

Short fitter pieces of track and roadbed

were glued on each end of the lift out tray so as to protect the bridge rails when removing or replacing.

Another way to support an Atlas bridge is to make a box sub base:

The bridges power supply is kind of wireless.  The square bass dowels from Freeman manufacturing have soldered  drops for rail supplied power.   The East dowel supplies one rail the West dowel powers the other rail.   The cabinet magnets help snug the bridge down.  The roller micro switches kill the power on each side of the bridge when the bridge is removed.  

I did receive a fair amount of armchair criticism for relying on a slip fit male/female electrical connection but after 8 years it still is very dependable.  Armchair criticism Frequently shoots blanks.

The only problem is with battery R/C.  For some reason the micro switches seem to be ineffective.

With either tray style the plywood stops at the outside most edge of the  Atlas rail girder,  not the over all width of the main deck frame.  With the flat black applied I have yet to have anyone comment on the plywood sub base.

Tom, when I saw you had posted, I expected some in depth information and wasn't disappointed!  Thank you very much!  Your information and photographs are extremely helpful.  I had looked at Susan's web site several times before, but had never seen her information about the Atlas bridge.  She documented the information in extreme detail.  I already see lots of great ideas at just a cursory glance.  Thank you for pointing me in that direction too. 

https://slsprr.net/features/bridges1.htm 

https://slsprr.net/features/bridges1drwgs.htm

I will look over all of this in greater detail in the days to come.  There will be plenty of time to review information, ask questions, and gather materials, since I know I won't be starting this project until fall or winter.

Mark,  Susan's approach is much more professional than mine.  I really like her work,  She and I had conversation about this project awhile ago.  Very impressive person!  I just do not like the lack of strength of the Atlas bridges.  Way too delicate for me.  The only thing I like better with my approach is that the Atlas rails imbedded in the bridge assembly are shielded from being popped out of their spikes.  The fitter pieces I use at each end of all my lift outs I consider to be sacrificial in an abuse handling or contact situation.

The main line ends and the fitter pieces are adhered using Aileen's adhesive.  That adhesive can be sheared off with a putty knife.  It is very strong but not  forever permanent.

I have had occasion to remove flex track and roadbed a few times without difficulty.  It comes up clean.

Alinees tacky glue available at Michael's crafts.

The tie voids are filled

1 1/4" Masonite strip aligns track.  Unpainted wood is part of bridge tray

The dead weight provided flat rail head alignment while the glue dried.

Note four wire molding races around outside door.

Each wire run has quite a few track level voltage supply lines for the scores of blocks and power districts.   This was all done before I discovered battery R/C.  

There is also one race which contains 110 voltage for the fascia service duplexes around the basement.  No wires at floor level.

Tom, Susan's work certainly is, though yours is more practical.  The single track Atlas truss hasn't given me any trouble lifting and lowering, but the width of the double track one makes it more cumbersome, heavier, and I think more apt to break.  Your fitter pieces area good idea.  What you show looks like lift out, not lift up on hinges like Susan's and mine.  I think I'm going to have to come up with a way to make the hinges more solid like she did, but use a wooden base like you did.  I saved your posts and hers, just in the off chance there is a server issue and I lose something.  Thank you again.

Hinges are best for anything that requires frequency.  I formed three strap hinges to use on GRJ's yard lift up which I made.  John fabricated real neat electrical contacts for it.  Might be a good thread for John to repost the electrical contact photos.

My situation was for code egress and code service panel access.  That door is never used.  I check it once a year for a fire drill only.

@Tom Tee posted:

Hinges are best for anything that requires frequency.  I formed three strap hinges to use on GRJ's yard lift up which I made.  John fabricated real neat electrical contacts for it.  Might be a good thread for John to repost the electrical contact photos.

My situation was for code egress and code service panel access.  That door is never used.  I check it once a year for a fire drill only.

@gunrunnerjohn could you post some photographs of the electrical contacts.  Thank you!

@Mark Boyce posted:

@gunrunnerjohn could you post some photographs of the electrical contacts.  Thank you!

Here's a link to the original post in my layout build thread: https://ogrforum.com/...3#157265375044264253

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Here's a link to the original post in my layout build thread: https://ogrforum.com/...3#157265375044264253

Excellent, John!  Thank you very much!!!

Wow Mark, planning is just as important as execution. Gathering information from great resources and great folks here on the forum. Things are really shaping up.

I’m with Bob, call me whatever you want, just not late for dinner! 😉

Andy

@Steamfan77 posted:

Wow Mark, planning is just as important as execution. Gathering information from great resources and great folks here on the forum. Things are really shaping up.

Andy

That is so right, Andy!!  Where else could someone without the insight into innovative or advanced techniques be able to have folks who have those insights offer such great information.  Tom and John are just two of many folks here who are happy to take the time to offer knowhow from their areas of expertise.  So many here share from their background developed over years of experience gained at their vocation and hobby interests.  I am so happy all of these forum members have helped me in various areas of the hobby, and I try to offer what I have learned from others and from trial and error.

Sometimes a contribution to the hobby can be made by just asking a question or presenting an idea of the end result we are aiming for.  If we don't ask, an answer that many readers can use may not be given.  In the case of John's answer, I read what he had done at the time, but had forgotten all about it.

Thank you, Andy!

I finally got all the snowbirds on the station.  I opted for one row on each roof surface as the prototype photographs show as opposed to two or three staggered rows.  Here are a couple photographs, one a closeup.  I'm happy with them.

I'm going to leave the station project for now until I get the parts I want for the interior.  Next up is some cleanup of the shelves underneath the layout and making a space to store the double track bridge until I get the plan ready for the changeover.  The way it is now, I could bump into it.  I changed out a bad DCS remote thumbwheel carriage in my original remote.  Before that, I backed it up and loaded the information on the spare remote I bought last year.  Now both are up to snuff.

It's looking really good, Mark.

those snow birds are very difficult to install because not enough material was provided to install them into the roof.  that chimney looks good.  much better than the one that came with the kit.

Nice job on the station Mark. I don’t know of a more diversified hobby than Model Railroading. Detailing roofs, fixing remotes, working with a computer and building bridges all in the same day.

Looks great Mark! The snowbirds are a nice touch!

Looks complicated, I'm going to model Florida, no snow!

Mark,

The station looks great including the completed snow birds.  Great work! 

Michael

Thank you, Richard, David, Dave C, Bill, John, Michael!!!

David, you told me the snowbirds would be tricky because the tabs are so short.  I don't know why they made them so short, but I got the knack of it as I progressed.  There are 57 of them on my model.

Dave, you are so right.  Once a layout reaches a certain point, You can pick and choose what you want to work on any particular day or do a few odd jobs too.  I forgot to mention, I pulled an engine off the shelf and ran it for a while as well.

John, as David and I mentioned, those snowbirds are stinkers.  I have some left over, but it will be a while (if ever) before I put them on another building. 

I want to add that pulling the DCS remote housing apart to change out the thumbwheel was a trick!  I followed Barry's suggestions in his book.  He said you need patience, and that is for sure.  It was quite painful too.    I was thinking, why do they even need the one screw in the battery compartment, the plastic tabs really hold.  I know, I should go WIFI and use the phone or a tablet. 

Many thanks to everyone!!

@Mark Boyce posted:

I want to add that pulling the DCS remote housing apart to change out the thumbwheel was a trick!  I followed Barry's suggestions in his book.  He said you need patience, and that is for sure.  It was quite painful too.    I was thinking, why do they even need the one screw in the battery compartment, the plastic tabs really hold.  I know, I should go WIFI and use the phone or a tablet. 

The second time you take it apart, it comes apart easier.

John, yes that is true with all those kind of things.  Barry eluded to that in his description.  Ultimately, if a device is taken apart enough times, the screw is necessary to hold it together if it is bumped or dropped.

Nice work on the station Mark. It really is coming together.

I can relate to your adventures taking the remote apart. I've repaired my son's X-box remotes several times and finding all the clips, screws, and layers to take apart is almost the worst part of the job. YouTube is your friend for finding all of them.

Bob

Thank you, Bob!  I know, laptop computers can be an issue too.  You are right, YouTube is priceless for this.

Great Job as always Mark, your attention to detail really makes your work look so realistic.

btw I also have the 2 track pratt bridge by atlas. Although mine started as a single then I purchased the add on. I have not yet taken out from the boxes yet. Although I will be now very gentle as all have mentioned it is delicate for such a large bridge.

Thank you, John!  The chimney you gave me really helps the model.  I'll be posting here what I come up with to keep the bridge rigid and strong once it is in use.  For now, it is safe on a shelf under the layout within easy reach.

Mark the snowbirds look fantastic! Why a nice detail. The station is really shaping up. As far as the remote, I actually use my phone or an iPad for that reason. It’s important to straighten out the layout room every once in a while not only for safety reasons, but also to be able to find things!

Andy

Thank you, Andy!

Funny you mention the WIFI feature, Andy.  I tried it when it first came out and didn't like it.  In hindsight, I probably gave up too soon.  I found myself looking at the phone as much as the train, which wasn't fun.  I found the buttons on the remote to have a better feel.  Also, I had a problem getting it to work on the home WIFI network.  I even asked Mike himself at York (2017) and thought I could get it to work, but never did.  When I ran it as it's own network, my wife's iPad would disconnect from the home and try to connect to the DCS WIFI.  Not a good thing at all!    So when I saw a Forum member looking for a WIFI unit, I sold it to him.  Now my thumbs give me so much trouble, I have to use both thumbs to roll the thumbwheel to adjust the speed.    It is also painful to push the thumbwheel.

Fast forward to this week.  I took the remote apart and changed out the thumbwheel on Memorial Day.  It was a lot of stress on the thumbs and tendons (ligament?) to get it open.  The next day, I tried to use my right thumb, and had stabbing pain in the middle joint of the right thumb.  Later, I had pain from the joint next to the wrist on up the left arm.  It continues today to a lesser degree.  Steroid shots in the thumbs quit working several years ago, so this situation isn't good.    The short of it is, I may be looking for a used WIFI unit, since I have 2 regular TIUs, one as a spare. 

Mark,

Sorry to hear that your hands are giving you trouble. Maybe some PT and strengthening/stretching will help. I've used my wifi unit for a few years, but then had trouble with it. It wouldn't connect to my wifi anymore. Turns out that the radio board in the wifi unit went bad. I swapped it out in about 1 minute and it's worked fine ever since. Using my phone or an old iPad works well. Like anything else, you will get used to using it. And best of all, no stress on the thumbs.

Andy

Hi Mark, Well I had to go back to page 71 to get up to speed, things are really looking good at your place! The snowbirds turned out wonderful! Don't worry about the chimney as I don't think there will be any fires in the station! LOL

I have the same bridge on my layout. That is the one I use the actuator one and Tom is correct it needs extra support so a box under it would be a great idea. I did an open girder type box. If you would like I can get a photo of it for you.

I hope your fingers get better and things go well!

Thank you, Andy and Mike! 

Andy, PT, PT, they know me well there!    Yes, I'll probably be getting an appointment to see about that.  Yes, I am rethinking the wifi for sure.

Mike, I would appreciate a photograph of what you did on your bridge.  The more information, the better.  It's funny, the more I do, the more I think of to do. 

@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Andy and Mike!

Andy, PT, PT, they know me well there!    Yes, I'll probably be getting an appointment to see about that.  Yes, I am rethinking the wifi for sure.

Mike, I would appreciate a photograph of what you did on your bridge.  The more information, the better.  It's funny, the more I do, the more I think of to do. 

Hi Mark,

Hope you get some relief for your pain. My fingers were hurting just reading about your experience. As for your layout, the more you do the better it gets and then those great ideas spawn other avenues for you to explore. Keep up the great work! Hoping your pain eases up and you get some relief.

Thank you, John!! 

Everyone, I didn't intend to go on about another ache and pain.  I know most of you who are reading this have plenty of those of your own.  However, I guess it is a good thing in that it is a reminder to all of us that tomorrow we may have difficulty doing what we are able to do today.  Whoever thinks he or she falls into the category of 'getting older'   should keep in in mind when planning and building a layout.  In this particular case, I was short sighted in selling my WiFi unit, though it helped another Forum member when he was looking for one.  Live and learn.  Never stop learning.  Thank you everyone for all you have helped me learn!!! 

Hi Mark, here are a couple photos of my open girder for under my bridge. It maybe hard to see as I made it out of 1/2" Plexi glass. You will notice in the last photo I attached each end of the bridge to the girder with an L bracket.

If I would have had the bridge when I built it I would have placed the cross members near the bridge cross members so I could have put an L bracket on each. I ended up using zip ties which seams to work just fine.

Thank you,Mike!  Yes I see the plexiglass.  With the L-bracket at the end, the zip ties are sufficient elsewhere!  The plexiglass sure doesn’t deter from the bridge like wood

Stayed in a B&B in Bethlehem PA and saw these on the slate roof. What a modeling job that would be.

Scotie,

I think that is a variation of fish scale shingles.  Yes it would be a great modeling project.  It has the slate, copper on the valleys and ridges, snow birds, and another type guard, not to mention the integral gutters! 

interesting 3D model

Neat, Alan!!

Had to drop by and see the progress is still moving forward Mark! Keep up the great work!

Lance, thank you!  Just today I started back on a project on the layout, but kept getting interrupted.  Therefore, I didn’t get any photographs. I’ll be posting about that project soon.

Who can guess what I am working on?

has to be the station

Lets see:

The station roof is finished and the snow birds are nesting

You should be getting another wi-fi to relieve your aching thumbs but it isn’t in the budget yet

You want to revise the bridge like Mike did his but you don’t have the plexiglass

How about starting to move buildings to a new level? Didn’t Jeff talk about that. I can’t remember if you already did it or not.

I'd say putting in the new Atlas bridge.

Can't set the station in place until the track work is done.

Bob

Thank you for responding Jeff, Bill, and Bob!!

Jeff, I haven't bought any of the interior parts for the station yet, but you are on the right track.  Here it is setting out of the way to give you a hint.

Bill, you are right I haven't even looked of a WIU or plexiglass.  I have been selling some extra engines, cars and a building.  The raised town as Jeff suggested will wait until I realign the track on that side of the bridge with solid roadbed instead of the plastic trestles.  So you are close too.

Bob, you are correct.  I need to do some ROW work in front of the station before setting the new bridge.  Then I will do the ROW on the other side of the bridge.  The two tracks were 4-1/4" apart rail to rail.  The bridge needs them to be 4-1/2" apart.  I pulled up the track in front of the station and the curve leading to it.  Here is a section of straight GarGraves that Andy @Steamfan77 contributed to the cause along with the measurements where the edges of the ties, cork roadbed, and solid roadbed will go.

I left the mainline switch in place for now to allow trains to run in the interim.  I'll pull it out and place it at the other end of the bridge when it is time for track there.

I'm going go work on the layout some more now.  There is nothing going on for Independence Day here, and it is hot outside.  Too bad there isn't a Pirates game to listen to today.  The Yankees come to town tomorrow.  Our kids will have to face some guys our owner didn't want to pay large contracts; again.  Argh!!!!! 

Mark, it sure is nice to see you have a plan! I think it is going to look great and It was nice of Andy to help out! I might not say much, but I will always be watching! LOL

Progress is progress - slow and steady wins the race!  It'll look great once the realignment is completed.  As for your Pirates reference - I feel your pain as there was no Phillies game today.  Not having your hometown team play on July 4th is so 2020..lol

-Greg

Hey, Mark!  The Yankees thank your Buccos for teaching Holmes that sinker.  The difference is that Yanks told him to throw it all the time!!!

I assume you're not a Stratomatic player.  I have been since 1966.  The Great One has the only -6 throwing arm in the history of the game.  Also, we will never forget or forgive the bad hop that hit Kubeck in the throat, cost them the series, and killed his career.  Mantle cried.

I try to keep track of your progress on the layout.

Best wishes,

Jerry

Thank you, Mike, Greg, Jerry!

We had Stratomatic growing up!  I was 4 when Maz and the Buccos beat the mighty Yankees.  I quickly learned who Maz is, but it took a while before I became aware of the significance.

Speaking of the 1960 WS, I received my first train the Christmas before.  It was the American Flyer Frontiersman. Wish I still had it. As for the Pirates vs Yankees, I was 10.  When I got home from school, I watched the rest of the game. I can still see Yogi looking up at the wall................

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, you are correct.  I need to do some ROW work in front of the station before setting the new bridge.  Then I will do the ROW on the other side of the bridge.  The two tracks were 4-1/4" apart rail to rail.  The bridge needs them to be 4-1/2" apart.  I pulled up the track in front of the station and the curve leading to it.  Here is a section of straight GarGraves that Andy @Steamfan77 contributed to the cause along with the measurements where the edges of the ties, cork roadbed, and solid roadbed will go.

WOW! I never win these guessing games!

Good to see you are on your way with the track work Mark. The station is going to look great when it's all done.

Bob

Mark nice progress. It took a bit to get caught up.

Is the new bridge going to lift toward the left or right?

Thank you, Bob and RJ!

Bob, I'm sorry the prize isn't like winning the lottery!    I think all the suggestions were good, but many hinge on getting the track realigned first.

RJ, In the photograph Bob copied right above your post, you can just see on the right the edge of existing single track bridge in the lifted position.  The new bridge will lift the same way, so it will lift to the left.  I'll be making a much more substantial base and hinge system since it is heavier.

@Mark Boyce, I'll have to peek from the laptop when I get home tonight. Sun is making it hard to see anything during lunch. I really like the substation from what I can make out. Looks pretty good Mark. Remind me to pop in later.

Thank you, Dave.  The substation is a Woodland Scenics model.

The station came out nice Mark. I like the setup to how the town is coming together. You are quite a ways away from doing up roads of any kind, have you thought of what sort of road you will have? Dirt, stone, asphalt?

Thank you, Dave!  The roads will all be dirt and asphalt with a lot of parking areas gravel.  Don't ask me what methods I will use.  I don't even remember what methods I used on the last layout. 

It rained a lot today, so I got some work done on the layout.  The Homasote and cork roadbed is in.  The alignment at the end of the curve works out just right, but it was 1/4" tight by the time it got to the bridge. 

I'll have to make some adjustments to the stops on the slide in station module, but here is a rough idea how it will go.  Anything that looks out of kilter is an optical delusion. 

I ran an engine around and discovered something isn't making contact at the lower bridge.  I see the problem, but decided to fix it another day. 

Well, roads will be something closer to the end. There'll be enough time for research and development to get back to you on methods to mess around with. I'm sure that "What did you do on your layout today?" may provide some clues. You could always ask there the closer you get to road work.

Dave, Yes there are always so many ideas here on the Forum!  After so many years I have learned for the most part not to buy materials too far ahead, after not using so many.  😄

Mark, when you started this thread way back in 2017, did you ever think you’d get a point where it’s now over 5.5 years old and filled with almost 3,000 posts?

Dave, Thank you for commenting, as I haven't heard from you in a while!!!

No, I never thought it would get so much attention!!!  I recall you telling me offline in an email that some of these topics are short lived and some gain traction.  I think it is a positive commentary on all the wealth of information and interest given by  so many Forum members.  They have given it a life of it's own!

Also, at one point I doctored the last SCARM drawing as best as I could for an 'as built' drawing as we called them at work.  I am totally winging it again, without even trying it out on SCARM.  I just tested it out by putting a bunch of leftover pieces of track together and decided it would work.  Cross my fingers!! 

Just haven’t had much to say. I’ve been working on some designs via email and pm messages, so I’m still here, just not as active in threads. It seems there are a lot more members willing to chime in these days, and that’s a good thing.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Dave!  The roads will all be dirt and asphalt with a lot of parking areas gravel.  Don't ask me what methods I will use.  I don't even remember what methods I used on the last layout. 

It rained a lot today, so I got some work done on the layout.  The Homasote and cork roadbed is in.  The alignment at the end of the curve works out just right, but it was 1/4" tight by the time it got to the bridge.

I'll have to make some adjustments to the stops on the slide in station module, but here is a rough idea how it will go.  Anything that looks out of kilter is an optical delusion. 

I ran an engine around and discovered something isn't making contact at the lower bridge.  I see the problem, but decided to fix it another day. 

Looking good Mark! Just wondering have you tried the switch line up coming from in front of the station to the other loop to see how things look?

I kind of used that as a gauge to set my track as needed.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Dave, Thank you for commenting, as I haven't heard from you in a while!!!

No, I never thought it would get so much attention!!!  I recall you telling me offline in an email that some of these topics are short lived and some gain traction.  I think it is a positive commentary on all the wealth of information and interest given by  so many Forum members.  They have given it a life of it's own!

Also, at one point I doctored the last SCARM drawing as best as I could for an 'as built' drawing as we called them at work.  I am totally winging it again, without even trying it out on SCARM.  I just tested it out by putting a bunch of leftover pieces of track together and decided it would work.  Cross my fingers!! 

Mark,

I’ve got four boxes of 40 year old new in the box homasote roadbed that I’d like to use along with cork. Did you put ant orotective coat on it? How did you choose where to use homasote and where to use cork?

Thanks,

Rubin

Thank you, Mike and Rubin!

Mike,   Keep in mind, I will be moving the existing switch right by the bridge to the other end of the bridge, so there will just double track with no switches in front of the station and across the bridge so I have a longer passing siding.   To show what you are saying, I placed the removed switch back in place, but now needed a spacer from the cutoff box since the tracks would be a little farther apart.

I made this drone view holding the phone in front of me and over my head.  I'm surprised I got just what I wanted to show on the first try.  Look at that mess of track going every which way!  The spacer is a little too long, and the switch covers about 4 ties on the curve, but you get the idea.  If you look at the top of the GarGraves switch, you can see where I had to saw off part of the ties to get it to fit against the other switch when I put in the dead end siding.

Rubin, my Homasote is probably as old as yours.  I painted over it where I'm putting track with cheap acrylic gray paint.  I used Homasote everywhere except one place where I had an overhead clearance problem.  I used the cork only to give the nice beveled edge so I wouldn't have to use as much ballast to make the beveled edge like on a main line railroad.  I painted it gray more to make it look a bit like ballast instead of cork until I get to the point of ballasting.  If I had the pre-cut Homasote sections with the beveled edges like a couple of manufacturers made, I wouldn't have bothered with the cork.  I think for sound deadening, you only need one or the other, not both.  As for painting Homasote so it doesn't attract moisture, I have read of people who have painted all sides of it and of people who haven't painted it at all and didn't have a moisture problem.  I think if a basement is that humid, the owner will have more problems than just with moisture absorption and will get another dehumidifier.

Very nice progress Mark! Lots of moving parts. This is going to be some interesting feature area when completed, there is a lot to look at. I’m in a typical humid Long Island basement, and have used Homasote on top of a plywood deck painted only on one side and have never had an issue. But the dehumidifier runs steadily from late April to September.

Andy

Thank you, Andy!

Yes, there is a lot packed into a small space.  It stopped raining and was reasonable to work outside the last few days, plus I had other jobs and a couple doctor appointments, so I didn't get much more done.  I am actually to the place I could put the double track bridge in place.  I will have to remove the one of the mounts for one hinge and a guide on the opposite end where the bridge end drops into place.  Since I'll be doing more outside, I don't want to take the bridge our for an extended period of time.  I'll work on some other things when I get a little time for now.

I don't have trouble with humidity in the train room either since there is a dehumidifier in the next room.  The Homasote that isn't painted is fine, not to mention what is painted; yes on one side also.

Wow, Mark! Lots of stuff going on!

Peter

Thank you, Peter!!

Yes, this layout has finally hit a sweet spot where there are many things to do.  I can pick and choose what I want to do each day.  On the other hand, I am keeping in mind that some tasks need to be done in sequence.  Don't put the tender before the engine!

Once you get the River City gang in to help with the plywood, you will be working on many things besides building kits before you know it.

Looking good Mark, I missed the part before where you stated you were moving the switches to the other side of the bridge! I had to do the same thing with my switches to get them to like up with the bridge!

Hope your having fun!

Thank you, Mike!  Yes I am having fun.  I only wish I could get the outside work done, so I had more time with the layout!  😄

Mark just got caught up with all that you have going on. It is nice to be able to choose from several projects. We have almost completed the engine service area so choices are limited. Our completion date is July 31. After that, there will be plenty of choices.

Now, about that station that needs an interior… the double track bridge… etc. Trains are a fun challenge.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I only wish I could get the outside work done, so I had more time with the layout!  😄

The perennial plea!  You're getting much more work done than I am!  And great work, too.  I am eager to see how the new alignment works out.  This process is perfectly prototypical, too.  Real RRs did such tings all the time.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Mike!  Yes I am having fun.  I only wish I could get the outside work done, so I had more time with the layout!  😄

It's too hot and humid to work outside Mark.

I suggest time spent in a nice cool basement instead

Thank you, Bill, Steve, Ski!

Bill, yes that station does need an interior!  I haven’t even looked at the links you gave me yet!

Steve, you are exactly right, this is prototypical!  And I haven’t forgotten about fixing the low bridge with the parts you sent me.  The scene reminds me of an older low line and newer high line by the same railroad or competitors.  Then the high line is upgraded!  Now a lot of those two track lines are being configured for one track on a double track bridge!  But it’s the 1950s on the BCL, and business is booming!

John, I know what you mean!  It says it’s 84, feels like 88.  I’m in the shade and there is a breeze, but I don’t stay out too long.  My excuse is I’m over 65 now and the weatherman says to stay indoors.  😆

@Scotie posted:

Stayed in a B&B in Bethlehem PA and saw these on the slate roof. What a modeling job that would be.

No guts, no glory!        said the guy who foolishly and regularly goes where angels fear to tread. 

Seriously, those would be a challenge.  But they look great!

Mark - the station is really excellent.  I love the snowbirds! 

George

Thank you, George!

I was just reflecting on how much I have gotten done.  Here are some comparison photographs from 2 years ago and today.

July 2020

July 2022

July 2020

July 2022

You’ve made major strides Mark! What a difference from 2 years ago.

Andy

Looks great Mark. Slow and steady wins the race.

Bob

That’s some great progress Mark! Very nicely packed in. That bridge sure reaches high up!

Wow! You have really made a lot of progress.

Love the bridge and the station.

Looking great Mark. I'm wondering whenever I get started how I will fair. Problem for me will be time, so I'll only be able to get done a little here or there on weekends as during the week doing anything is nearly an impossible task. It is just that there is no time to get unless I stay up later than I should to try to get something done, and anyone that works with hard days of work knows it is hard to move if you are worn out from the days work. See what happens. I still have nearly all my time off, so if I get a bit started before I take time off, I will get a ton more done when I do.

Just like time lapse photography - well done !

Thank you, Andy, Bob, Rich, Bill, Dave, Richie!!

Yes the bridge does reach up high.  I had to make sue the limit switch was set to allow it to go as high as possible so it didn't crowd the aisle but not hit the ceiling.

Dave, I didn't get much of anything done but false starts until I was close to retiring.  It certainly got frustrating at times.

I didn't do much today except I took the track and walkway off the Atlas double track truss bridge to get it ready for painting since I bought it already built.  There were small screws that held the track on from the underneath.  Here is the bridge upside down with the track off.  There is really a lot of detail underneath that is visible from the door when the bridge is in the raised position.   I hate to cover that up with wood for stability as the bridge is raised and lowered, so I am thinking of looking into buying some plexiglass like Mike g. used on his.

Here's the track and walkway sections that I should paint too.  The woodgrain pattern is nice on the plastic.

Peter

It can often be paralytic when you look at your layout from the perspective of "I have so much to do".   It's much better to do as you are - focus on making progress and thus remain positive!  Some steps take time - especially the scenery (as I'm learning now).   I'm sure when you look at the old pictures you think "wow, I did accomplish a lot".  The remaining items don't seem so daunting.

-Greg

@Mark Boyce Amazing Progress! It so satisfying to see everything start to take shape and come together.

Thank you, Peter, Greg, Justin!

Peter, The bridge is 10" x 40"   @mike g. used a piece that looks to be about 1/2" thick, but it was something he had on hand.  I'm thinking what you used would be around 1/4" thick.  I don't know how thin plexiglass can be before it would flex too much.

Yes Greg, it is a hobby.  There are no deadlines, no timelines, just do what I want, when I want.

Looking good Mark. I agree that 1/4” would be better weight wise. The bridge area will be some scene when complete. But you are making great strides now. Many projects that we all have seem to be multi-faceted. But worth the time when you wind up with the results you want.

Andy

Thank you, Andy!  I reviewed Mike's photograph yesterday and saw he used the thick plexiglass as vertical reinforcing strips on either side of the bridge.  He used much thinner plexiglass strips at intervals horizontally.  It is funny how part of a photograph sticks with you and another part is forgotten, even though Mike pointed it all out at the time.  So yes, I think 1/4" or so would work out nicely.

I don't have any updates on the layout.  The weather was low humidity this week, so I did some things outside.

Hi Mark, things are looking nice! I can't wait to see the bridge painted! I found some plexiglass that I might be able to run threw the table saw that would work for you. I have to measure it. With the actuator you have weight is no problem as it is rated for 250lbs.

If I can cut the plexiglass nicely, I can just make it the same as mine and ship it to you. I will let you know!

Mark- assuming the flexibility in the bridge is lateral, (it tends to twist?), not vertical, then 1/4" plexi will be an adequate stiffener.

Sounds like you are in good hands with Mike. How's the knee BTW @mike g.

Bob

PS- You could always leave it alone an recreate the Tacoma Narrows Gallopin' Gertie

@RSJB18 posted:

Mark- assuming the flexibility in the bridge is lateral, (it tends to twist?), not vertical, then 1/4" plexi will be an adequate stiffener.

Sounds like you are in good hands with Mike. How's the knee BTW @mike g.

Bob

PS- You could always leave it alone an recreate the Tacoma Narrows Gallopin' Gertie

Morning Bob, the Knee is still the same. I guess it would get better if I would stay off of it, but then things would not get crossed off the CEO's to-do list! LOL

When I was a kid my dad would take us over the Tacoma narrows bridge! Now they have a really nice one! LOL

Thank you, Mike and Bob!

Mike, I would certainly appreciate it if you have the right plexiglass to cut and ship.  If not, thank you for offering!!

Bob, yes it is lateral flexibility, not vertical.  Vertically, it is very sturdy.  You are absolutely right, if I left the bridge as is, it could be like the Tacoma Narrows Bridge.  I have seen short clips of it galloping, but never the inclusive film you found.  I'll bet they hanged the engineers off the end of the bridge that was left intact.    Back when I was going to Penn Tech in Downtown Pittsburgh in 1974-76, I walked across the 9th Street Bridge (now Rachel Carson Bridge) every day.  In the winter the wind howled down the Allegheny River Valley and I would look at the suspension marveling at how it kept the bridge intact.  Looking down there was nothing but broken ice refrozen into a jagged landscape from shore to shore.  It felt about 20 degrees colder looking down. 

Mike, you are right.  On the one hand resting the knee would help, but you need to keep the CEO happy.    My knee hurts doing anything.  The surgeon told me it is not the knee replacement itself, but the tendons that connect the thigh to the calf by running down either side of the knee cap.  I guess it isn't surprising because he had to shove all that over to the side to get access to the knee joint itself.  Yuck!!!  Kim has to somewhat baby her two knee replacements now that she has a form of rheumatoid arthritis that actually decreases the muscle mass.  It is a fairly newly named diagnosis, and I can't remember the name of it.

Yes, I can't wait to see the bridge painted too.    I think I want it painted a dull silver like the single track bridge.  I'll have to go down the hill to the local Ace Hardware and see what is on their shelf.  Lots of colors have been missing from the shelves for quite some time.

Hi Mark, I was able to measure the Plexiglass and it is 5/8th" thick. I seen on youtube if I use a torch or a heat gun it will take all the scratches out of it and make it look like new. I want to give that a try before I cut it as I would think you would like it clear as can be!

Mike I greatly appreciate anything you can do to help me.  However, make sure you don't get in Dutch with the CEO because of helping me!   

I have reconsidered my plan to leave the Atlas single track truss bridge intact for train running until I am ready to drop the double track version in place.  As is usual, I want to visualize what it will look like and ask for opinions.  I can run trains on my Ceiling Central Railroad in the meantime anyway.

Yesterday, I removed the single track bridge and set it aside.  It was only 6 screws.  I also removed the blocks of wood that are in the way for the double track bridge; 4 screws.  I then set the double track bridge in place with the approach track and two tracks on the bridge.  The bridge sits about 3/4" too low at the hinged end, but it gives a good idea of what it will look like.  Here are a few viewing angles.

Now, here is the question.  What color should I paint the unpainted double track bridge?  I have seen a lot of the bridges, for instance @Tom Tee and @mike g. both have shown black ones.  I thought I would paint it a dull silver like the single track bridge which you can see sitting on the layout in the background of these photographs.  Maybe black looks better.  I'm looking for suggestions before I go to the local Ace Hardware for paint.  What say ye? 

Sorry the last photograph is cockeyed.  I was standing at the door and held the phone over the layout to get the photograph.  I should have taken a few more, and used the one that was best.

Now you are rolling. Good decision.

Paula and I both prefer black.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I have reconsidered my plan to leave the Atlas single track truss bridge intact for train running until I am ready to drop the double track version in place.  As is usual, I want to visualize what it will look like and ask for opinions.  I can run trains on my Ceiling Central Railroad in the meantime anyway.

Yesterday, I removed the single track bridge and set it aside.  It was only 6 screws.  I also removed the blocks of wood that are in the way for the double track bridge; 4 screws.  I then set the double track bridge in place with the approach track and two tracks on the bridge.  The bridge sits about 3/4" too low at the hinged end, but it gives a good idea of what it will look like.  Here are a few viewing angles.

Now, here is the question.  What color should I paint the unpainted double track bridge?  I have seen a lot of the bridges, for instance @Tom Tee and @mike g. both have shown black ones.  I thought I would paint it a dull silver like the single track bridge which you can see sitting on the layout in the background of these photographs.  Maybe black looks better.  I'm looking for suggestions before I go to the local Ace Hardware for paint.  What say ye?

Sorry the last photograph is cockeyed.  I was standing at the door and held the phone over the layout to get the photograph.  I should have taken a few more, and used the one that was best.

That's the money shot Mark. The station and tower in the background look great.

I'm partial to weathered, grimy, silver, but it's YRR-YR (your RR- your rules).

Bob

Mark, the key in this situation is that there aren’t any bad choices. I tend to agree with Bob on using the silver. The black tends to blend in with the background. I might suggest, since your area is not lacking for bridges, that you do a field trip to review some possibilities. Look at them from a distance and close up; take photos. Then ponder the weathering possibilities.

Jay

Mark, you have interesting bridges and prominent placement if you are leaning toward representation of actual bridges, color is a natural. If not, you could make real short cardboard mockups of the end of bridge side and experiment with different base colors and weathering as others suggested. More aggressive weathering would really make your bridges pop imho. I am too slow on my layout progress to do that. And I need courage to experiment on my structures. Hope you have good results. Cheers.

Thank you, Bill, Bob, Jay, Pennsynut!

Bob, Thank you about the money shot!  I wasn't even trying to get the tower in it.    I've heard plenty about 'your railroad', but never saw it as YRR.  I like it!

Jay, you are right, there aren't bad choices.  Your comment about bridges in my area rattled my brain enough to say, "What did the prototype do?"  LOL  Of the color photographs I can find, the bridges were silver or gray at one time.  By the time of color photography, there was a lot of rust.  I want the railroad to look like it is still in it's heyday.  I'll still be glad to entertain suggestions!!

Pennsy, you wrote while I was typing.  Experimenting with different colors is a good suggestion.  They aren't really representations of actual bridges.  If I did that, I may not live that long.  I am with you, I really need to practice on weathering before doing it on a nice model.  Again, I may never get that far. 

Mark, A dull gray might be a great idea, here in the pacific northwest it think more are black or green.

As for the Plexi glass I was not able to bring it back to new looking. But if you would like I can still cut it for you. I was thinking at 5/8th" thick you would only need them to be 1 1/4- 1 1/2" tall. Or you can just go with your 1/4". Just let me know!

Mike, I am thinking you have a good point about the dull gray paint.  It would look weathered but not weathered much.  😄

I don’t think it matters much if plexiglass is new looking.  It will look better than plywood. Whatever size you think is best.  5/8” is probably better.  I appreciate anything you can do!  Thank you!  👍🏻

Mark, leaving the bridge to go back to the interior of the station; we are finally getting ours in place and decided to redo the interior of the front part (totally). We will record all including sources for stuff and send to you when done.

Hope that it helps. These seem to get rather detailed with Paula and Rich involved.

I'd vote for the dull gray, also.

I've used a paint called "vessel gray" (picture a battleship) from Lowes with good results, although not on a bridge. Probably, a Valspar paint with a flat finish in a sample size.