Pros and Cons for Passenger LED lighting... Buck converter vs linear voltage regulator.
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Switching regulator runs cooler.
And at less than a buck each, the buck converters are highly cost effective.
The buck converters are way more efficient than the old linear voltage regulators. Just make sure you get the good ones. (I have had 2 designs that didn't work well, one that's great. The ones with the LM2596 chip in it work the best. I add a good sized capacitor at the output to keep the lights from flicker. I run strings of LED"s 22 inches long and these guys can handle the current.
I am actually using them on AC powered standard gauge coaches, but add a bridge rectifier and another cap at the input to convert AC to DC before the voltage control circuit. Sounds complicated, but I can build whole bunch in an hour or two, using the holes in the little PC board to solder in the extra components.
Jim Waterman posted:I am actually using them on AC powered standard gauge coaches, but add a bridge rectifier and another cap at the input to convert AC to DC before the voltage control circuit. Sounds complicated, but I can build whole bunch in an hour or two, using the holes in the little PC board to solder in the extra components.
Would you have pictures of the component connections to the complete converter? I would like to replicate. What size cap and bridge rectifier? Thx
I have the Buck converter L2596 to power LED strip lights that work real good. No problems.
My question is will incandescent light bulbs last longer powered by DC voltage? I have changed a few RR lanterns and put in 12 volt Incandescent bulbs while using the L2596 converter. Works real good and brings up the light slowly with the use of the transformer. Any thoughts on this?
Watch who you order from overseas as I bought 20 mini-bucks and received some totally different power boards...some kind of battery to usb board. So open a case to return and of course they're fighting it.
My two cents: I believe any constant even regulated power supply works better than none, and DC sure seems to be easier to work with in this application.
Of course, there's always this one. 
with a footprint slightly over 1/2" x 1", it fits most anywhere.
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And where, pray tell, might we find one of these, John?
John H posted:And where, pray tell, might we find one of these, John?
John’s is an ac to dc linear supply? Linear is fine, I think, for leds...the power is low.
In the case of the wrong boards, usually China will offer some percentage refund and you keep the boards. If you keep refusing the offer, it gets better.
cjack posted:John’s is an ac to dc linear supply? Linear is fine, I think, for leds...the power is low.
In the case of the wrong boards, usually China will offer some percentage refund and you keep the boards. If you keep refusing the offer, it gets better.
Latest offer is they'll gladly send replacements...if I close the case...I will close once they either provide a tracking no. or a refund. Tomorrow I'll call ebay and force a refund.
cjack posted:I'm using these DC to DC switchers and they take a bridge rectifier on the input side very easily installed. The input has a 220uF/35vdc cap on it already. Works well...
Yeah - mine look like that too. I also add a minimum of 1000 uF after the bridge and before the lights (so a cap on each end of the board). Some of the boards have two sets of holes on each end, makes it a little easier to add the caps. That little blue thing is a multiturn pot, allows very accurate adjustment of the output voltage.
Thx, I’m up to snuff.
