You can use the JST PH connector line, available at Digikey.
Thanks John, Just ordered 20 connector sets from Amazon. The signal driver kit instructions are clear & assembly easy even for a guy with shaky hands. I have three installed & am getting ready to build a fourth.
Great, glad you are cruising, always good to hear that. 
GRJ- I will there were a few here that were looking for a heavier relay and just posted here, I figured they get the email and read the reply rather than missing it in a new forum post which I will be doing.
- Don't mean to walk on anyone's toes here. Just trying to help those looking for a heavier relay. My apologies for the brief hijack 
He is just using your hard work and dealings with others to sell his item! Poor Judgment.
It amazes me how some people are just too lazy to do their own work or due diligence; always riding the backs of others & their success!
Just standing on the shoulders of giants...
BWRR posted:and less $$ to boot.
To late I have already ordered 132102329553, I am sure10s max will be fine for what I want to do.
The board has shipped, delivery is in a couple weeks.
I'll rig it up and report back when I have it
as promised report when implemented. It works great.
this first picture shows how it is hooked up. When I built the sensor board I did not populate the jumper header or the relay. These lights are running on 14V AC, on on the NC side, one on the NO side
This video shows it working with the lights. you can see that the NC light stays on, with a quick switch to the NC as the sensor is triggered.
This picture shows hook up to house
video shows house working perfectly
Thanks alot guys
Attachments
Images (2)
Videos (2)
Nice! Thanks for following through with photos and videos. 
With the variety of inexpensive timer/relay modules, I think your effort will motivate others to try similar layout enhancements. And that's a good thing!
Glad to.
Thank you for all the help I never could have found that ebay board on my own.
BWRR posted:BWRR posted:and less $$ to boot.
To late I have already ordered 132102329553, I am sure10s max will be fine for what I want to do.
The board has shipped, delivery is in a couple weeks.
I'll rig it up and report back when I have itas promised report when implemented. It works great.
this first picture shows how it is hooked up. When I built the sensor board I did not populate the jumper header or the relay. These lights are running on 14V AC, on on the NC side, one on the NO side
This video shows it working with the lights. you can see that the NC light stays on, with a quick switch to the NC as the sensor is triggered.
This picture shows hook up to house
video shows house working perfectly
Thanks alot guys
Looks Great, I know down the road I will try something like that for me. You are right about one thing Stan is a great help here on the forum!
I just received some additional parts for the kits, so I have a few sets if anyone is still looking. I was totally out of the first round of parts, had to wait a spell...
GRJ, I just found the time to assemble the 8 kits I got from you many months ago. My compliments: the kit is first rate--easy to assemble and the board is well labelled. Was enjoyable to do.
That was a good recommendation you made: install the smallest components first so you can lay the boards upside down and the workbench holds the parts in place. I did find it useful to have a large illuminated magnifier, to check each joint.
Glad it all went smoothly, that was the idea. I've assembled many boards over the years, and you do learn a tip or two in the process. 
John, I have assembled the first kits. Are they still available 8 for $64. My second question: where do you stand with the TMCC signal booster? Thanks
Dave, I still have some kits, drop me an email.
I haven't made progress on the TMCC booster, real life has gotten in the way. I'd like to get the schematic from Dale's family, it would really speed the process. I wasn't counting on having to reverse engineer the hand built prototype, really adds to the workload. I may have to punt on that project and hand it off to someone else. I'd be glad to do the PCB, but having to reverse engineer, build a prototype to see if I got it right, then do the production layout and schematic, etc. it more time consuming that I had counted on.
