I have a well used 262 crossing gate and the green wires from the bulbs are undone. Where on the solenoid mechanism do they attach? The crossing gate works just fine as it is but no lamps. Thanks in advance.
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I believe the lamp wires simply attach to the two base terminals (soldered?). The lamps do not flash alternating on this accessory. Both lamps and gate solenoid are actuated through the same two accessory terminals.
The MTH version of the 262 is different, having a flashing circuit for the two lamps.
To the right of the lamp and near the plunger is a soldered area. I am wondering if the two green wires get soldered to that area. The green wires were cleanly disconnected from something when I got this accessory.
If you have a VOM (Volt Meter) you can check those contract for Power.
The crossing gate operates properly with the exception of the lamps. There is no evidence that the green wires were ever attached to those terminal clips on the bottom of the accessory. There is evidence of solder to the left of the light bulb as previously mentioned.
262 wiring diagram
Attachments
Images (1)
Thank you Mr Johnston. I have that same diagram in a Lionel repair book. Sadly, I do not understand those diagrams for love nor money.
I thought I had one of these accessories in the 2-do box, but sadly...
First, I'd apply 12 volts to the two lamp wires just to be sure the bulbs are functional.
The evidence of solder near the plunger solenoid is probably where you could attach one of the lamp wires...but not both!
Look for evidence of another solder point somewhere on the mechanism electrically isolated from the first spot.
I'm hoping someone will have this accessory and take a photo of the mechanism w/wires attached (internally) to show where the solder points can be found. I could not find a YouTube repair video.
Also, your photo seems to show extra weights (magnets?) attached to the gate counterbalance? Those shouldn't be necessary if the gate is functioning properly. If the gate is sluggish to return to the upright position after power is removed, you may have an over-heated (read: damaged) solenoid restricting free movement of the plunger/armature. That's a more problematic issue than the lamp connections, IMHO of course.
FWIW...
KD
@dkdkrd posted:I thought I had one of these accessories in the 2-do box, but sadly...
First, I'd apply 12 volts to the two lamp wires just to be sure the bulbs are functional.
The evidence of solder near the plunger solenoid is probably where you could attach one of the lamp wires...but not both!
Look for evidence of another solder point somewhere on the mechanism electrically isolated from the first spot.
I'm hoping someone will have this accessory and take a photo of the mechanism w/wires attached (internally) to show where the solder points can be found. I could not find a YouTube repair video.
Also, your photo seems to show extra weights (magnets?) attached to the gate counterbalance? Those shouldn't be necessary if the gate is functioning properly. If the gate is sluggish to return to the upright position after power is removed, you may have an over-heated (read: damaged) solenoid restricting free movement of the plunger/armature. That's a more problematic issue than the lamp connections, IMHO of course.
FWIW...
KD
Thank you for the quick reply. I did add a few of those super magnets years ago to help the crossing gate return to its full and upright position. I guess I can try it with the magnets removed. There is a spot of solder at the right bottom of the solenoid as well as the top left. Is it possible that is the second soldering point for the green wire? I also could not find YouTube videos on how to fix this accessory.
Thank you so much, to all who responded..
The green wires are soldered to these 2 spots - the ground connection on the top of the solenoid housing and the hot connection to the solder tab on the solenoid / lamp contact spring.
Rob to the rescue!!!
The reason for the magnets is because some one added the lucite bar and 2 red lens, because of the added weight the arm it will not return upright unless the counter weight is increased, if you look at the 252 crossing gate the counter weights are thicker to counter balance the added weight of the lucite bar. Also the 262 did not have a light in the base, some one add that to light the lucite bar
Mr Grillo, I had not realized what a cannabalized accessory this was. I have had it a very long time. Maybe back to the 70s. I also noticed that the "262" on the base of this gate is blocked out. I do like the lucite block and the red lenses on the gate.
I don’t see it as being cannibalized, someone just wanted to add the Lucite bar and the red lenses to the gate just as I have done to my gate, when I did that my gate would not return to the position that’s when I discovered the counter weights are different when you add the Lucite bar
...and some more info to ruminate re this accessory.
Still baffles me why Lionel didn't rise to the challenge when MTH released it's version years ago of the 262...adding a dime-a-dozen flasher circuit for the crossbuck lights. I'd say our LHS sales of the two versions (when the differences are explained to the customer) were about 10:1 favoring MTH.
I am always gratified by the length and breadth of the knowledge displayed by forum members here. Sometimes a simple topic will reveal an enormous amount of information. Stay tuned for my next topic: how to turn that unused corner of your layout into a nude beach.
