Lionel ZW dead posts, bad rollers.

That process for replacing worn out rollers is the easiest and an efficient way to install new rollers.  If all of the four terminals are good and tight, a touch of solder between the "offending" posts and brass strip should make a sound contact.  Make sure that the back crimp of the terminal posts haven't broken enough to release to brass strip.

I recommend replacement posts for the terminals, they're cheap.  Many times, I simply replace all the terminals if some are loose as they are done in a pretty cheap way on the original.

As for the rollers, do NOT let them get all the way to the windings, the arms will score the windings and the transformer is toast!

I do them this way. 

I use a wire to secure the arm about 1" off the core so I can work on it.  Crush the old rollers with needle-nose pliers to expose the rivets.  Since the original rivets are pretty hard material, I use a Dremel cutoff wheel to slide them between the ears on the wiper arm and remove them.

Clean up the brass on the arms, install the new rivets with the heads facing inward so they won't clash as the arms cross. and just crush the end of the rivet.  I also solder the head of the rivet to the arm as this improves the contact, one less high resistance joint for the current to pass through.  Finally, I use Deoxit D5 on the moving parts to improve conductivity.

Everything GRJ said above, and more. Do all 8 terminals. That way, you only need to go in once. Also, look at the power cord. If the insulation is hard or brittle, time to replace that as well. Do NOT use a polarized or grounded plug! Next, look for the circuit breaker. If it is original, replace it with a new solid state one. The originals loose their ability to function correctly over time. Changing it now is cheap insurance.  BTW, this breaker protects the X-former, NOT the trains!  A well stocked train shop should have both the cord and the correct breaker. Lastly, check the whistle buttons for correct operation. You may want to replace the copper oxide rectifiers with heavy duty diodes. I don't have part numbers, but I'll bet GRJ does! 

Chris

LVHR

I have the terminals and rollers with pins if you need them.  Just let me know.  Easy to replace.

wheeler359@gmail.com

Thank you guys. 

I happened to have a small bolt/nut that was the same thread pitch/diameter of the old post stud. I twisted/pulled the old stud out and installed the bolt. Seems to have fixed that particular dead post . I still have one more to do.

I ordered a set of rollers from eBay, will check back when parts arrive. 

Thankfully my power cord is still good.

Thank you for all the tips.

This thread actually comes at a good time; I had to break into my recently acquired AF 15B to tighten one of the terminal posts, and have decided to replace the roller on it.

Although a different animal entirely, it helps to see what others are up to...roller has been ordered and is on its way. 

Mark in Oregon

This has been a popular resource for information on roller and binding post repairs.

Basically the same information provided above, but with the addition of photos.

The only issue I have with that document is cutting the rivet.  First off, if you're not careful, you risk spreading the tempered holder, and too much bend and it breaks, the cutters are much wider than the gap for the roller.  The second issue I have is the original factory rivets are HARD, at least the ones I have run across.  I found that it was far easier to simply use the Dremel cutoff wheel to slice the center of the rivet and remove it.  Finally, the job is much easier if you tie the arm lifted off the core by about 3/4" to 1" with a wire or cable tie.  Then you can freely work on it with both hands.

Here's a good link for transformer information,

trans4mr

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The only issue I have with that document is cutting the rivet.  First off, if you're not careful, you risk spreading the tempered holder, and too much bend and it breaks, the cutters are much wider than the gap for the roller.  The second issue I have is the original factory rivets are HARD, at least the ones I have run across.  I found that it was far easier to simply use the Dremel cutoff wheel to slice the center of the rivet and remove it.  Finally, the job is much easier if you tie the arm lifted off the core by about 3/4" to 1" with a wire or cable tie.  Then you can freely work on it with both hands.

Yup, that’s exactly how I do it, you only need to snap that tempered arm head one time, to never do that again.....as you said about holding the arms back, I fashioned me a holding fixture made out of a coat hanger to hold the arm and lock it in place to free up both hands.....one for the big arm, another for the little arm...they stay in the tool box....Pat..

I didn't make a tool for the job, but I got the job done just the same.

That is a great write up, thank you for posting that. It’s strange that it didn’t pop up in a google search. I have new rollers on the way.

a little trick i use when replacing rollers....   get a thin small washer, approx 1/8" hole,

cut a slot  in the side, slide it over the rivet pin between the roller and the arm, now squese or peen the pin and remove the washer.  this will prevent jamming the roller too tight in the arm as it needs to rotate freely..

You need THIS VIDEO. It’s only 99 cents.

Jim Barrett shows you step by step how to replace ZW rollers.

Was able to repair the ZW this morning.

Received the new rollers in the mail.

The victim.

The offending roller being crushed with pliers. I tied the arm back with a zip tie.

New roller installed, and rivet peened with pliers. I cut the old one with a small pair of side cutters I had. Got it on my first try

I cleaned all the contacts for the whistle/reverser lever, and all four roller sweep paths with de-oxit. Also installed another bolt in the dead common post I had. The other two original posts are good for now...so far.

Thank you for all the help. 

You can follow along on my other thread for building my first layout/train room. I inherited all my Grandfathers, Fathers, and Uncles postwar trains. Can’t wait to get them up and running.