Tortoise and steering diodes?

They're just standard diodes, use a 1N4003 or 1N4005, very common diodes you can get most anywhere.  I think it's really as simple as that from what I read.

Two-terminal bicolor LEDs (not a 3-terminal common anode or common cathode) with series resistors can be connected across the switch machine and from the switch center terminal to common.

On AC I used IN4003s from Radio Shack to wire from seven I C Control's ASC Modules to the 32 Tortoise operated turnouts on a now dismantled layout. 

Now, on my little 17 turnout layout, powered directly by a 12VDC wall wart.

Since the tortoise is in the voltage path, no resistor was needed as their documentation points out. I tested one then two bicolor LEDs in series between the center leg of the switch to the tortoise. In both cases it worked perfectly. I tried voltages between 12 and 16V using 18GA wire. But I intend to try and use CAT5E 24GA wire in the final setup if the solid core isn't too hard to work with. We shall see.

I would like to use a toggle/bicolor LED combination at both the control panel AND the turnout. 

I found this post elsewhere from Bob Bartizek.

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Using two Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) toggle switches wired as shown will do exactly what you need. The levers on the toggle switches will not indicate the direction of the turnout throw, however the pairs of LEDs will give a positive indication. A single bi-polar(Red/Green) LED can be substituted for each LED pair but regular LEDs may be easier to find. No series resistors are needed for the LEDs since the Tortoise Motors will provide the required current limiting. With a 12 Volt supply the Motors will draw 4 milliamps while moving the turnout points and 14 milliamps when reaching the limit of the throw. The motor is designed to have power applied at all times and stalls at the end of travel securely holding the points against the stock rail.

Bob

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Can a 12VDC wall wart drive this circuit (with two LEDs each) for 25 tortoise machines? I think this method requires a separate cable set run to each tortoise. Is there any way to get more cable economy?

Secondly....

I already bought 30 SPDTs to use with the AC with steering diodes wiring diagram from earlier in this thread. I added bicolor LEDs as in the following drawing modification. If I really want to use a second toggle at the turnout, do I have to abandon this wiring scheme and the SPDTs?

1. If each draws 14mA max as you stated, 25 x 14mA = 350mA so a 1/2 Amp supply ought to work.  As for cable economy are you referring to breaking the DPDT diagram down the center?  In other words a cable "set" is 4 wires running from the control panel (with its switch/LED) to the actual tortoise (with its switch/LED).

2. Is this a question of cost in that you already bought the SPDTs and don't want to buy DPDTs?  I can imagine ways to emulate the DPDT function but it would mean adding more components near the actual Tortoise...such as, say, a latching relay.  So in the end the incremental cost might be the same but you could use your actual SPDT switches if for some reason their style or feel is something you can't get in a DPDT switch.

It appears from the other Tortoise thread on this sub-forum there are some additional outputs on the Tortoise that feedback the position of the switch.  Seems that might be applicable to a scheme to reduce cable clutter or extra "poles" on a switch.

And since there are Tortoise experts on this sub-forum, I'm curious why you wouldn't want to use a push-button to toggle positions?  That is, since the mechanical orientation of the DPDT does not indicate the switch position in the two DPDT configuration anyway, it seems a push-button that toggles the position from whatever it is now...using the LED as feedback...is the way to go?