So, I completed (or so I thought), my inner loop this evening. Hooked it up to take a train for a spin and ... nothing. Green light flashing on the transformer. I checked all the track connections and they looked good. Still, flashing light on the transformer.
If I connect more than a couple of pieces of O27 track now, I get the flashing green light. Swapped transformers and the same thing.
How do I go about fiinding this short? Thanks.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
CW40. Tried with the CW80 as well. No dice on both.
Trouble shoot rule of halves. Split the loop in half, determine which half has the problem. Then split that part of the loop in half. Continue.
What Mike CT said......
Peter
Thanks guys. I'll test it all tonight. I was looking at a tutorial and noticed that it appears that there is a piece of insulation on the center rail of O27 track? Honestly, I had not noticed it before ... I'll look to see if any of that is missing on my track (which I just acquired from a train show). Where can I buy extra pieces, or can I use some household materials to serve in its place?
Paper or electrical tape will do the job.
Deuce- With tubular track the paper insulators between the center rail and the ties can sometimes fall out or get damaged. I would inspect each piece to see if that is the problem. If you are taking it apart you can test the track with a multi-meter set to Ohms (continuity). Test from the center rail to either outside rail. If the meter beeps or goes to 0 ohm then you found the cause.
I have replaced many of these with some thin card stock. Just lift the rail and cut the piece to fit.
The paper under an outer rail was added by a previous owner to make a insulated common rail for activating an accessory. I do the same with my tubular track to activate crossing signals. If you want more detail on this I can explain but for now its not an issue, it can be removed if you want.
How many power drops did you run for the tracks? I have a CW-80 and typically I put at least two drops on a oval. It makes a huge difference. I use mine for the Christmas tree layout- 10' oval of Fastrak w/ two power drops, running my Polar Express Berkshire and 4 lighted coaches. It works just fine.
Bob
RSJB18 posted:Deuce- With tubular track the paper insulators between the center rail and the ties can sometimes fall out or get damaged. I would inspect each piece to see if that is the problem. If you are taking it apart you can test the track with a multi-meter set to Ohms (continuity). Test from the center rail to either outside rail. If the meter beeps or goes to 0 ohm then you found the cause.
I have replaced many of these with some thin card stock. Just lift the rail and cut the piece to fit.
The paper under an outer rail was added by a previous owner to make a insulated common rail for activating an accessory. I do the same with my tubular track to activate crossing signals. If you want more detail on this I can explain but for now its not an issue, it can be removed if you want.
How many power drops did you run for the tracks? I have a CW-80 and typically I put at least two drops on a oval. It makes a huge difference. I use mine for the Christmas tree layout- 10' oval of Fastrak w/ two power drops, running my Polar Express Berkshire and 4 lighted coaches. It works just fine.
Bob
Honestly, I was just using one drop to test it out last night. I have five that I was going to lay around the track for power and for some strategic placement of accessories.
Deuce posted:RSJB18 posted:Deuce- With tubular track the paper insulators between the center rail and the ties can sometimes fall out or get damaged. I would inspect each piece to see if that is the problem. If you are taking it apart you can test the track with a multi-meter set to Ohms (continuity). Test from the center rail to either outside rail. If the meter beeps or goes to 0 ohm then you found the cause.
I have replaced many of these with some thin card stock. Just lift the rail and cut the piece to fit.
The paper under an outer rail was added by a previous owner to make a insulated common rail for activating an accessory. I do the same with my tubular track to activate crossing signals. If you want more detail on this I can explain but for now its not an issue, it can be removed if you want.
How many power drops did you run for the tracks? I have a CW-80 and typically I put at least two drops on a oval. It makes a huge difference. I use mine for the Christmas tree layout- 10' oval of Fastrak w/ two power drops, running my Polar Express Berkshire and 4 lighted coaches. It works just fine.
Bob
Honestly, I was just using one drop to test it out last night. I have five that I was going to lay around the track for power and for some strategic placement of accessories.
perfect! the more the merrier 
This sure sounds like a single piece of bad track, almost impossible to detect visually unless you have done it before. The suggestion of splitting the loop into halves is a good one and will narrow down the problem......unless you have more than one bad track in two different locations. Depending on the size and how much work you have put in, setting up one or two track sections at a time with a lockon and adding power is one way to proceed. Pre wire a lockon, snap it in place, add power, observe. No problems that track goes into the use pile. Problems, look further. As suggested the paper under the outside rails are either bad or moved. An easy fix.
Found the short. A piece of insulation on the center rail of a cut piece of track was missing. Back in business! Thanks for the help everyone.
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
