Added riveting to the hump:
taking a closer look you see the "double-riveting" that is present on the actual hump;
The vents and circular fan grates not shown will have riveting as well around the perimeters.
next step is to print (16 hours) as shown in a prior post above.
That's so cool. Getting excited! But maintaining my composure.
Hi @AlanRail,
This is really impressive work you are doing. I just recently got hooked on the Big Boy Tour Trains and when looking closely at the cars in a typical train there are 5 "baggage" modified cars, usually one if not two with some form of POWER for electricity to the passenger cars or to the engine itself in backup. Youi would think Lionel would have attempted cars like that for tjhosd of us wanting models closer to prototypical form Big Boy consists.
Great work - looking forward to seeing your progress.
Does it take a huge learning curve to do this printing? Wow though what you can do with that skill.
- Ken Gillig
Ken
With Chinese and other 3D resin printers being realatively cheap, these printers are more affordable now than ever. There are FREE 3D modeling software programs available, so that's not an expense, too.
There are on-line tutorials to use these programs and printers most of which are free.
Most of my designs use 2D models made off of photos then extruded into the 3rd dimension to form a 3D model.
For example, Gunrunner John, OGR's resident electronics expert told me, not too long ago, that designing and making 3D models was "way-out-of-his wheelhouse. He bought a 3D printer, got into some 3D modeling software and look at the 3D jeeps and other things he is now making!!
He is not the only one here.
Join us!
OOPS.
Reviewing my first model, it was way too thin in parts. So in an effort to correct I extruded out certain sections thicker.
Sometimes this works. And other times the re-skinned model confuses the slicer program which in turn screws up the print.
I revised the model as I should have done the first time, and will re-print.
My wait is almost over! The 3D printed Hump from Alan is in the mail as I type this. I'm hoping it'll be here by the weekend. I'm so excited.
I'm still waiting on my Railsounds card to return from Lionel. Seems the card was never "flashed" with the sound file.
I returned from York with a whole bunch of Fastrack for the layout, and also the 2327270 UP Excursion Pack 4 from Brady's Trains.
This Excursion Pack gives me the last 2 cars I need for the Bush Funeral Train. The "City of San Fransisco" Dome car and a car to build the Sleeper car "Portola".
More to follow in the future.
Until next time....
UPP #2066 HUMP Update
I received a very beautiful laser cut and labeled box from Alan containing the pieces/parts of the Hump.
When I first saw this, I was totally surprised, floored even.
Inside the box was a laser cut insert containing the cutouts for the side vents and fans.
The fans are with the main parts of the hump which is underneath.
Remove the insert and this is what you see. Well, what you would have seen is the side vents in the body, and the 3 main parts of the body inserted in the insert.
As I said, I was very impressed with the box! There was NO WAY the USPS would have destroyed the parts without destroying the box.
So moving on. After close examination of all the parts, I couldn't wait to start trimming and cleaning up the hump. I glued the 3 sections together and allowed them to dry before doing any manhandling. I then placed the hump on top of the car to get some sort of perspective of what I had. I'm totally liking what Alan has pulled off. This is going to be sooooo cool when it's finished.
This afternoon I sanded the ends to get a better fit to the roof. I still have some forming and fitting to do. But with any first time project, there's a huge learning curve that goes into this. I will be detailing the build of the HUMP so others will have the opportunity to see how I put this car together, if Alan is so inclined to put this out for others.
I'd like to say...Alan and I have sent LOTS of emails back and forth and it's still a work in progress. Alan has been very accommodating to my OCD. This is going to be a one off, at least for me and I'd like it to be as Prototypical as possible.
Alan does awesome 3D work as many of you folks know. I am completely and totally impressed with this "Hump". It was well worth the wait!
I just can't say this enough, Thank You Alan!
Until next time...Stay tuned, More to follow throughout the winter.
Looks fantastic! Excellent work Alan, I would definitely be interested in a kit if possible.
Please do not ask to purchase here in this thread. It is against OGRR Rules.
So after several revisions and many more rivet details per Chris, the model was printed and will be shipped to Chris (Jayhawk500). The model as Chris has said will have two rotating fans and a smoke unit.
The hump has 3 main sections, 4 large in-take vents, 4 more smaller vents and two sets of grill and fan blades. And plenty of scaled and positioned rivets!! Thanks to Chris.
The fan blades have a D-shaped notched shafts to fit the small electric motor shafts.
After about 9 hours of printing; here are the three main section printed pieces in the 2nd post-processing wash.
Looks like great progress! Will be interested to see when finished and installed on a car body to create a UP 2066.
Am I aloud to say, "Hot D*** Skippy!" Where's Snoopy doing his happy dance!
Alan has done an awesome job on this 3D print. I can't wait for it to show up! Just so everyone knows, this isn't going to be a rush job to get it finished. I'll be taking my time assembling this car. If you noticed, The areas under a couple of the vents is a bit warped. This is a VERY thin area and VERY delicate. It's hard to maneuver the hump around with out breaking those strips. I broke the prototype ones without even knowing it.
I will be posting the build on this thread, so Stay Tuned "O" Gaugers.
Just a quick update on the Hump. As you can see from the above posts Alan has completed the hump. It's been delivered to the Post Office and is in route to me. According to the tracking number it should be here hopefully on Friday.
With that being said, one other thing I've been wanting to do is get the proper drumhead on the back of the Kenefick car. When purchased, it comes with the "Union Pacific" drumhead. For Bush's Funeral Train the drumhead was the Presidential Seal. I went to Tomar and asked about getting one made and that's still in the works. Hopefully that comes to fruition. But in the mean time, I was able to make a Presidential Seal. It's not as clear as I would have liked since I had to shrink it down so much, but it'll do until Tomar decides if they're going to make one.
More to come after Friday's delivery.
Until next time....
Looking good! Since you're doing the train up right, you may want to swap the trucks on the observation cars to 6 wheel versions. The truck swap itself is super easy, just have to trim the skirts on the non observation emd of the car. I did a post about it a couple years ago.
@Will Ebbert posted:Looking good! Since you're doing the train up right, you may want to swap the trucks on the observation cars to 6 wheel versions. The truck swap itself is super easy, just have to trim the skirts on the non observation emd of the car. I did a post about it a couple years ago.
I saw that post. I removed the scale coupler and put a dummy locomotive coupler in it's place. It does the job and I didn't have to remove the skirts. But only time will tell.
UPP 2066 Hump Build Update
I finally received the "hump" last Saturday. As always, Alan has done a fantastic job. So I'm going to forego the unpacking photos. They're the same as I last posted.
So we move into testing and fitting the parts. Lots of printing nibs that need to be remove, but an X-acto knife makes short work of those.
I test fitted the cooling fans to the gearmotor shafts and they also fit very well. I won't have to glue them in place. There's enough of a friction fit to hold them. Plus, once the grill are installed they won't come off.
I started this morning on cleaning up the cooling fan openings, and deciding how and where the gearmotors will be installed. Since there's not a lot of clearance on the gearmotor shaft, I wanted to ensure I got the shaft centered in the hole, so I placed a piece of heatshrink over the shaft to help center it.
Using this clamp I found on line, I was then able to locate where the holes needed to be for the clamp. These clamps came from across the pond and took about 10-12 days to get here.
Once I got the hole locations, I drilled a .120" hole. Using my soldering iron, I inserted a M2x4x3.2 nut into the resin. These nuts are .125" in diameter.
Using my Weller soldering iron with the temp set at 2.
The nut just sits on the irons adapter, wait a minute to heat up then insert. I inserted the nuts until they were flush with the body.
Utilizing the M2*8mm screw I mounted the gearmotor to the body.
The gearmotors I'm using are 12 volt 138 RPM motors. Everything I have shown and listed has come from Amazon. These also came from overseas.
Mounted and centered. Dont overtighten the screws. Use just enough pressure to hold the motor. Too much pressure, you'll pull out the inserted nut. Or worse yet, spin it.
Remove the heatshrink and place the fan on the shaft. The fan is centered in the hole very nicely.
Sorry about the quality of the movie, but you get the idea. No load current is less than 30ma.
Repeat as necessary for the other gearmotor. More to come.....
If anyone is interested, I can list the links for the parts I used if needed.
Until next time...
I've had to reconfigure the inside of the car 4 times. Everytime I added something it would interfere with something else. But I think I finally have it figured out. Going from left to right: Speaker, Mini-EX, diesel smoke unit, RailSounds Lite, Buck converter for the cooling fans. If I had known it was going to be such a nightmare adding everything in I would have waited on installing the detailed interior.
The smoke unit originally had an 8 ohm element in it and really smoked heavily on full track power. I removed that and installed a 30 ohm element. This produces a better column of smoke, but it's still a bit heavy. I think I may go to a 33 ohm element and see if that's any better.
Thank you to everyone who "Liked" the posts.
I snapped a few pictures after I had gotten the hump sections glued together. Lots of sanding and scraping to get a flush tight fit. I also glued in the vent grills to prevent breaking of the very thin materal under the vents.
I followed that up with some body filler from my 70 Chevelle. To prevent lots of sanding and damaging the hump body. I wiped off the excess filler and then wiped down the area with rubbing alcohol.
The next step will be to lightly sand down the back side of the vents so the lower edge of the hump body will sit flush against the car body.
Now, one must realize the area indicated inside the blue box is a best guess. Since there are no overhead photos of the real 2066. Alan and I did our best to make this work. So I'll be doing some creative modeling to make it look like the real McCoy.
Until next time....
Great progress!
Another quick assemby update. The "Hump" is now permanently secured to the top of the donor car. 
I know it doesn't look like much from the last photo, but here they are anyway.
The sides have been glued down also. Now begins the tedious job of appling filler to smooth out the sides where the hump attaches to the body.
I'm pretty pleased with how this is turning out. Baby steps, lots of baby steps.
Until next time...
After all the changes and rivet placements (there are a heck of a lot of rivets for all the rivet-counters out there), the model came together extremely well.
Still Chris isn't done yet there several more pieces to place, fills and painting. And of course, the electrification of the smoke unit, the two rotating exhaust fans and controller.
Look forward to the final car!!
Just saw this. Fabulous work guys.
@BobbyD posted:Just saw this. Fabulous work guys.
Thank you Bobby!
Another Quick Update...
I spent the morning sanding the body filler. It's not perfect and needs some more sanding and more filler. I ended up sanding off some of the rivets, and they will be replaced just prior to painting. I'm going to use the rivets from Micro-Mark.
I had to put a coat of primer on the body to show me the imperfections that need to be addressed. I'll allow the rest of the day to let the paint cure. So here's a couple of pictures to allow your imagination to run away with you. This is turning out awesome!
Until Next Time.....
Chris,
This is outstanding work - I'm jealous of the meticulous work you are doing.
What did you use as the filler? I need some for my 4-4-0 project (which is slowly ongoing).
@Black Rock Railway posted:Looks Fantastic, but wouldn't it be just as easy to 3D print the entire shell?
Thank you Joe!
That would be ideal, but you need to have a printer large enough.
@C&O Allan posted:Chris,
This is outstanding work - I'm jealous of the meticulous work you are doing.
What did you use as the filler? I need some for my 4-4-0 project (which is slowly ongoing).
Thank you Allan!
This is what I'm using. It's made to be used on plastics, metal and will go over paint and stick.
Printing the entire hump or car with hump requires a larger format printer. The cost of which exceeds my printer budget!!
So I print in sections.
Another quickie update...
Just completed the right side of the car. It's hard to see and differences from before, but using a flat piece of styrene, 320, and 400 grit sandpaper, I was able to get the joints pretty flat. I'm going to go out and put another coat of primer over that area to look for more imperfections.
Hi Chris, I too just got done reading this thread. WOW is a word that does not seem to do justice to your excellent modeling skills. Thank you for the detailed description and pictures of your efforts. This is a very impressive effort and I look forward to your continued progress.
Paul
Thanks Paul! It's very much appreciated! Merry Christmas to you and your Family.
To everyone else, Thank you for the "Likes" as well.
Merry Christmas.
More to come!
Weekly Update on the UPP 2066 Progress...
Good afternoon everyone! Hope everybody is ready for Christmas!
I have spent this past week filling and sanding, filling and sanding, (you get the idea) the body to get a consistent smooth body. I have the body and portions of the roof (that are without rivets) sanded down to 600 grit. I am very leary of sanding anywhere where there is rivets in the fear of sanding them off. So they'll stay the way they are. I did receive the rivet decal sheets from Micro-Mark and their setting solutions. Looks to be pretty good stuff. It's been a lot of years since I applied decals, so we're going to see how this all goes.
After reading the decal instructions, I've marked out on the body where the rivet decals will go as per the instructions. The lines are hard to see in the second picture.
I'm hoping to get these applied by the end of the week.
More to come...
Until next time.....Merry Christmas! Hohohoho
I sure hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas.
I did finish the decal application of the rivets on the hump this morning. Once I got the hang of appling the decals, It went pretty quick.
The adhesive that holds the rivets will get dissolved using the solvent in the red bottle just before I paint the car. Several applications of the solvent may be necessary to get it completely dissolved. A few photos of the rivet application and an interior shot of the fan motors. Because of the size of the "rivets" that Lionel uses on the car body, I had to order HO sized rivets from Micro-Mark. Those have been shipped and should be here any day.
Until Next Time...
Thank you for the "likes" gentlemen.
The Chassis is Complete!
As I wait on the HO rivet sheets to arrive, I was able to get the R4LC receiver installed with GRJ's Dummy Eng Board. I opted for the R4LC receiver after I wasn't able to get the Mini-EX programmed. So other than adjusting the voltage for the fan motors, the chassis is now complete. Here's a short video of that completion.
Until next time...
Chris,
I've really enjoyed watching your progress and excellent modeling. Looking forward to seeing your completed car.
Thanks Jonathan! I hope it turns out as well as I hope it will. I know it will functionaly, but it's the aesthetics that has me a bit concerned. I've never done anything like this before, to this extent. My hopes are that this turns out as well or better than a Lionel 21" car.
Rivet Detail Update
While I was taking a much needed break (waiting on the HO riverts to show up) from appling the rivet decals. I decided to take some action shots of the car sitting on my turntable. All of the O scale rivets are applied and I re-installed the ends of the car.
The HO riverts arrived on Christmas eve, and I started to apply them right away. Appling all the rivet decals has taken me about 5 days total. I did just apply one coat of solvent to one of the decal sections just to see how well this will work. It's currently drying and I'll post up a photo after its completely dry. Once all of the decal adhesive has been removed this car can not be handled too much. It'll have to be painted right away, to secure the rivets or I'll be doing it all over again. Due to the glare it's hard to see the lower rivet line between the hump and car body.
Until next time...Happy New Year!
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